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Found 10 results

  1. Driving lights are moving on SO fast, and there are SO many on the market that I am rather confused as to what to get, so if anyone has had recent experience of buying/fitting long range driving lights, and like what they fitted... I wonder if you would share please? I had a search around the forum but only found posts that were a couple of years old. I am completely undecided between light bars and round types, but I am supposing that LED is the way to go... Unless you know better? I don't think I would be fitting a HUGE light bar, but no doubt others reading this thread would be interested, so please - whatever you have - let us know what you think... Cheers Roger p.s. I am interested in both road-legal and 'off-road' solutions...
  2. My 1994 defender was a hard top and acquired a county type roof along the way. Full headlining sunroof etc. Interior light has two wires that were tucked into the headlining. Trying to make it work on the door switch. Purple wire I've connected to a supply and the light is earthed by one of the mounting bolts so I can switch the light on manually. How does the plunger switch work with a single wire? Putting a meter probe on the blade on the plunger gives no continuity with body. I thought it may have been switched on return through the body but apparently not. What next please?
  3. Hi New here and looking for help on what seems to be a past time for land rover owners! i will try not to make it to long winded......but it is, please bare with it. i had the 3 amigos about a year ago shortly after buying the discovery 2 , ignition off and on, it all cleared and that was that. About a month ago i was was getting fed up with a rumbling from the front and decided, time to change the bearings, found out that you cant do that and need the complete hubs, bought 2 and fitted the front right(looking from inside the car). No problems but still rumbling. Changed the front left hub, cured. While i was at it i put new pads in both sides. Now-the embarrassing bit!- i managed to get a pad in back to front! it didnt make any noise at first as i had covered the backs in copper slip but it got really really grindy and grounchy over the next few days! i thought i could make it untill i had some daylight at the weekend but could not stand it anymore so donned the head torch and headed out for a cold dark January night sat in the drive taking the wheel off to find it was in wrong, the disc was grooved and worn as was the pad! Obviously! when i changed the right hand one i also changed the sensor for the one that came with the new hub, however, thinking that i was not getting any problems with any lights i didn't bother changing the one on the left! chucked out the old hubs and one new sensor! WHY! i dont know, but the bin men took it away. It then drove fine,even bracking but got the 3 amigos up. I thought this is obviously where i had the old sensor on the left, so ordered a new one, went to put it on and found that it is different to the right, it goes through the engine bay into the cab under the glove box and was spliced into whatever its spliced into!. I decided that this was way to difficult so broke into the existing sensor wire in the engine bay area as its a lot more accessible. All the lights cleared on start up. Yipee....reversed out of the drive, turned and pulled away and the TC light came on the the brakes came on with some pumping/whiring noise. So, it drives fine in a straight line and no lights on the dash. Turn a left hand corner fine and no lights. Turn a right hand corner/roundabout and the TC light comes back on and the brakes go on stopping the car slowly. Unless i take my foot off the accelerator-then the brakes come off and i can coast into a straight line again. I have been driving around with the R10 fuse out, its fine to drive but lights are on the dash and i have an MOT in 2 weeks! so-everything i have read, people say get the codes read first. I bought an icarsoft930i reader from paddocks.seems pretty good to my untrained eye! The wheels are all at 1.7km when sat still which seems to be right. I have just been and put the fuse back in and plugged the reader straight in, this is what came up... DTC shown shuttle valve switch electrical failure. Pump failure 2 (pump not running when actuated). I clear the DTCs and drive around the block, i get these... manifold pressure circuit fault. logged low. inlet air temp fault.logged low. multiplexpressure curcuit fault. logged low. 1%reference voltage. fault logged low. driver demand fault.logged low ambient pressure circuit. fault logged low I dont think the above 6 have anything to do with my problem but i dont know! probably something for another day! when i try reading abs faults while driving around the block and the TC light comes on there are no DTCs! So, my next thing to try as it is free, is try re-seating the sensor in the hubs maybe without the rubber seal. recheck the hubs and wheels are nice and tight. i have made sure the tyres are the same pressure. i am tempted to start on the shuttle switch and pump failure but unsure what the electrical problem could be unless it is reading codes from when i had the R10 fuse out.. weird that it is only right hand turns! What would you try next????????
  4. Hi guys. I am new to owning a discovery 1 and would like to change my regular lights on the rear to led's I am changing all, brake lights, indicators etc etc but i have never really done any wiring in cars and don't want to mess it up but I need to start somewhere. I was wondering if someone could help me with the wiring of the disco, e.g what cables do what. The led's I have are just (live and neutral) any help would be greatful. I have a discovery 1 1994 es auto 7 seater. Cheers Matt
  5. I have had an intermittent problem with side and head lights on my defender. I have replaced both the main switch and the pink dim/dip relay behind the dash. This worked for about two days, then lost both side and head lights again - not worked since. I tested a few things with a multi meter this morning and it appears I have no power to either the main switch or the dim/dip relay. Can any one help? Thanks
  6. Good day to you all i am new to this site and was looking for some advice ,I have just brought a land rover 90 it is an 87 plate with a 200 tdi engine the problem is that the dipped beam lights are staying on but not full power i have disconnected the light switch at the steering column but they are still on so it now has no fuses in i cannot see any relays any help or advice will be appreciated thank in advance
  7. sighnbox

    LIGHTS

    Hi guys Yes she has been good for a while but TROUBLE again Headlights I have full beam lights but no dipped lights ??? If I take a live wire from the battery and put it in either of the dip fuse slots the dipped light illuminates ....so I'm guess a switch or wiring from the switch to the fuse box. On the main switch what are the wires ???? Any test to take a wire from there direct to the fuse slot ??? To test if its wiring Any one had this problem or the switches go and if so would it be more likely the main switch or dip switch that's gone ? Thanks guys
  8. The headlights on my landy are the standard issue 1/2 a candle. And the bowls were rusty. So I decided to buy some nice H4 lights with plastic bowls. Decided I may as well add relays too while I am at it. So my question is, do I buy the relays at about £8 a piece from an auto electrical supplier, or the same price for 5 of them from ebay. I know the old saying about buying the best you can afford, but are they likely to be identical units? Anyone bought from ebay and had good/bad experiences with the relays?
  9. Hello all, just got my first defender, a 1999 td5 90, and i think its brilliant! It has LED indicator lights and has and an rdx relay, that makes them flash at the right speed. Right and Left indicators work perfectly, but when I switch on the hazards there is nothing happening. Any ideas on what might be causing this?
  10. Id like to get some advice on what to buy and where to get some Roof Lights, Spot Lights, Driving Lights The main criteria is that they are excelent value for money - so the wont be the cheapest, andf they may nt be the Ulitmate - but they will be a good buy. The roof rack lights need to be fairly compact, and ideally would have a sidelight / dim dip / DLR capability. The Spots - or driving lights can be any size, and could have the side light / DLR function or even could 'Dip' (and advice on fog lights too) thanks
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