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Found 15 results

  1. Hi All, Currently rebuilding a disco td5 LT230T with an Ashcrofts Master Rebuild Kit. I'm at the stage of putting things back together following the manual. I've constructed the centre diff (all the same parts apart from the copper dome washers and the fibre thrust washers. As soon as I start to tighten the bolts up to clamp the housing together, I'm no longer able to freely turn the gears inside using the front output shaft. It requires a bit of force. The manual suggests that if it's too loose I need to use thicker washers. It doesn't suggest what to do if it's too stiff. Having measured the thrust washers the old ones were 1.35mm where as the new ones at 1.05mm. If i pop the old ones back in everything turns smooth. Should I get replacement washers at 1.35mm or should 1.05mm be right? Thanks Thomas
  2. Hi i have LT230 in my car, with a hole for a neutral switch, i don’t have the Light or the old switch, so need to blank the hole, What is the tread size to find the right bolt
  3. Whilst flicking through a rough scan of the old Defender Workshop Manual I noticed this oddity in the specs for the LT230 oil - I've never heard of engine oil or ATF in an LT230 yet it appears to have been Land Rover's recommendation once upon a time - presumably "just use whatever's in the gearbox" no mention of using EP90 in it at all! Anyone ever run theirs on ATF or engine oil?
  4. Does anyone know if the LT230 has any oil channels, directional grooves, or other mechanisms that won't work if it's run in reverse rotation? This is for an Ultra4 racer, part of the drivetrain will run in reverse as it's using a mix of donor parts and I wanted to know if I will encounter any oil lubrication issues.
  5. I'm rebuilding a Defender 200tdi bought as an unfinished project. I can't see what holds the speedo cable into the drive fitting on the transfer box. The square cable end goes into the hollow square drive OK, but there's nothing to hold it in. Should there be some sort of a clip to hold the flange on the cable outer to the gearbox? Any ideas please. John
  6. Hi all. Working through a number of jobs on my 1996 110CSW 300 TDi with R380 and LT230. One has been to check the transfer box input gear spline wear. I have this box - 22D515445F which being a later box (i presume from the year and the 'F') as far as I know will have the later cross drilling. So I removed the PTO cover (bolts had massive threadloc on them) and rocked to and fro and there's no wear as far as I can tell, between the input shaft and the gear. Whilst I was there I thought that I may as well pull the gear out (just for a closer look at splines etc.) and to confirm the drilling. So I removed the bearing support plate which only needed a little help. Thought that would be all and that the gear would just pull put backwards - but it gets stuck against the other gear (intermediate?). Is this correct and I can't take it out or is there some technique to move the prop or something just to allow the gears to clear? I realise that if the box is the later type with the cross drill then I don't need to inspect further - however I'm underneath and why not?? Thanks
  7. Hi I hope you will find this interesting and that i can get some advise, even the fact this Land Rover is LHD. History of the project is long, way to long. it started some 10 years ago, when i bought a 1967 109" STW, Ex. danish civil defence. got it home, stripped it apart and order a new chassis, springs and started to rebuild it. Then life got in the way: the project has moved twice, changed specs several times and will for sure change again. but this is how it looks to day: 1965 SII 109" STW on the papers Richards Galv. Chassis, made for 2.5 N/A engine, removable gearbox crossmember Rocky mountians spring Salisbury rear axle, series diff. Std. Rover front axle, series diff. Disco 300 TDI engine LT77S gearbox LT230 transfer, ratio 1.2 PAS steering - LHD P38 steering house + defender coloum and the rest series SIII Bulkhead SIII front end SII from bulkhead and backwards. Interior - will come in time.... Status oktober 2015: Chassis with springs, dampers, axles = rolling chassis Engine and gearbos mounts made, using 2.5 N/A chassis mounts, LHD side engine mount from 2.5 and homemade RHD mount to go around the oliefilter, gearbox mounts from 110", bolted to chassis in new holes with crush tubes. engine and gearbox dropped in for test fitting and task finding. SIII bulkhead in the making, found a good one, the only need og new footwells and doorpillars - ready for test fitting and modification to suit the LT77 gearbox and new steering setup. SIII Frontpanel - found a rustfree takeoff, and started to mod it for 300TDI radiator and TD5 intercooler. radiator needs to sit as far to thr RHD side as possible, to leave space for the P38 steering house, the intercooler just high enough to clear it So now the task at hand: being a LHD, my space on the LHD side of the engine is kind of restricted, hence the P38 servo and defender coloum, giving much better space around the Turbo and alternator. i will have to cut the inner wing and make some new, but would prefer keeping it to a minimum. I know I can get(or make one up) a Gwyn Levis bracket for a second or in my case one alternator in the A/C spot, that moves the alternator for me, leaves great space for steering and hoses in the old spot. but what about the Fan belt ? can i just get a shorter one or do i need to make up on idle pully or ?? any advises would be helpfull.
  8. Hi All, Been sat day-dreaming a bit the last couple of days about different setups for land rover transfer box selector options (yup I really do that). Now if I had own way I would love to have the centre diff lock operated by some form of air actuator a bit like the t95 style option but perhaps compressor driven. However both of my trucks are t230 cases. I then thought perhaps a simpler option would be to just separate the standard 2 axis selector stick into to individual levers. For me this would be great for trialling as I really seem to struggle when toggling the centre lock in and out (perhaps its just short arms or something...). Anyway I thought perhaps some of you out there may have made your own solutions to this and would have pictures that you might be willing to share for some future "creative inspiration". Cheers!
  9. Im putting a replacement trans and an LT230 out of a Disco into my 89 RRC which had the Borg warner transfer case, now I have all of the dirve shafts but is the transfercase to chassis mount the same for the two transfer cases, or more specifically the part that bolts to the chassis?
  10. Hi everyone, I have had a 2nd hand LT77 & LT230 transfer box fitted in my 1990 Ninety as the old gear box jumped out of !st and reverse but now it jumps out of high range in the transfer box for a while after you have been in low range then it sorts itself out. Any ideas on the cause of this would be great, My old LT230 had knackered bearings on the input gear that's why I changed it, Is there some adjustment required ?Thanks in advance Angus
  11. Hi All, I've been investigating the backlash in my lt85/lt230 combo. I can see that the splines are worn - especially on the transfer box end. The main gearbox end is worn too, but maybe not quite as badly. (pictures if you click the links). Having no idea how bad is bad, and there's a good worrying clonk on gear change... Can I get away with just a new transfer box input gear (which is cheapish and easy), or is it a waste of time and I should save up to get the main gearbox done too? Cheers for any advice/comments! Mike
  12. Hi all, I have seen that the end of the main box output shaft is tappered, but neither in the workshop manual or in the thread covering LT230 swap in this forum says anything about a nut locating the input gear. Why?
  13. Is out out there anyone with a tape and a handy LT230? I´m looking for the distance from flange to flange in a LT230 tbox. And in a divorced LT230?
  14. Dos a centre LSD Quaife in the LT230 box have still a difflock option? I have read a interesting article about 3x LSD in the drive line of a defender. One front, one rear, and one centre diff. I think is is a very nice and interesting setup. I would like to hear some experiance Regards Theo
  15. Chatting today about the lack of gearing in the 109, the idea occurred that it may be viable to build an LT230 which is over-driven in high range. Currently I run a 1:1 ratio LT230, my axles are 5.99:1 and my tyres are only 37's as I don't want to chop the bodywork about. Low range is great, but in high-range the V8 is doing far more revs than it needs to. Looking at the workings of the LT230 it looks like it may be possible with some basic machining to reverse the high-range gearset on a 1.222:1 ratio box to give 0.8:1 ratio. Before anyone says it, no I don't want an overdrive for various reasons, including the fact that I have a hydraulic PTO I'm quite keen to fit to the box. So, the plan would be something approximately like this: I will abbreviate high range intermediate gear to HRIG and high range output gear to HROG otherwise I'm going to be typing forever - Take HROG, machine the dogs off - Take intermediate gear set, machine HRIG bit down to ID of HROG - Slide HROG onto intermediate gear set & weld up - Take another HROG, machine its teeth off to make it a carrier with the appropriate dogs on - Take another intermediate gear set, machine the HRIG off, bore the centre out to slip over the HROG-based carrier and weld it up. - Tea & medals. A few unknowns: - Just how hard the gears are, if they can be machined without the aid of NASA - I have assumed the HROG has a bigger ID than the intermediate gear set as the parts book seems to back this up, but I don't know 100%. - If the new and potentially smaller HROG will still fit over the output shaft. - If welding gears together will knacker the alignment / strength / hardening - If there's an easier way of doing this / off-the-shelf bits, etc. - When the hell I'd get the time to do it So - discuss!
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