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Found 12 results

  1. ejparrott

    Transmission mounts

    Ever LR to my knowledge from 1948 up to discovery 200TDi had two rubber mounts for engine and two for gearbox, and the Defender 200 even kept that up. My knowledge gets a bit weak then but as far as I'm aware 300's, TD5 and later all reverted to the same 4 mounts. So. Why did the Discovery have two mounts for the engine and only one for the gearbox? Whats the benefit of having 3 mounts instead of 4? Is there one? Is it because of the funky Disco engine mounts that weren't used on anything else? Reason for asking, fitting the LT77 into my 88". The rebuild is imminent, the chassis has now arrived from Richards, and even nearly right. I've some magnifications to make to it and send it for galvanizing, but being August I'll probably wait until next year now to start the work. Anyway, when I did my 109 I made brackets to fit it to the original Series mountings on the crossmember. The thought was floating around, why do I need to fit 2 mounts, why couldn't I fit just one? I do know at least one person has fitted it with just 1 mount, I don't know how it behaves though. Is it something to be thought about, or is it not likely to work long term? Cheers all
  2. nico3dd

    TD5 R380 to a 4.6 V8

    I haven't found the info i need between thousand of read pages.. so i just though of posting this here. any help would be greatly aprecciated. so i just got lucky, and a friend was tossing his td5 r380 gearbox, which obviously i wasnt going to let that happen. So i had an old lt77 suffix E which has some synchro problems. Is the input shaft from the lt77 interchangeable with the r380 one? i know the td5 r380 input shaft measures 22mm ish diameter and a bout 350 mm ish long, (measured from the front face of the 4th gear pinion) I have acces to a lathe and can modify the input shaft if needed. What are the exact measures im looking for?? what about the bell housing? could i use the lt77 one?
  3. Good day chaps and chapesses 200TDI with LT77. I have a threaded hole in the bottom of the bellhousing, with nothing in it. With the recent very deep floods here in the lakes I suspect water has been getting in. I have a wading kit fitted, my guess is someone left the bung out when work was being done. Clutch slips when its been through puddles, is fine when dry. I guess there should be a plug in there, but can't find a part number that matches the description. Any advice please. Ta David
  4. Good evening, I'll start by introducting myself. My name is JW and I'm from the Netherlands. I have been reading this forum extensively. My 86 land rover 110 was ready for a complete restoration. Started 2 years ago and now almost finished. New chassis, new firewall, new brakes all round etc etc.. I had the lt77 split and treated with new gaskets and sealant as it was leaking. It's now ready to drive but... I am not able to select a number of gears. R, 1st, 3rd and 5th. I have tried alot of adjusting with the bias spring but to no avail.. Had a look inside the housing, nothing wrong there as far as I can see. Could the person that has split the box did something wrong making it unable to select those gears? Or is there a more simple solution? Maybe some joint experiences? Looking forward to your thoughts.. Thanks in advance for sharing.. Regards
  5. Hi I hope you will find this interesting and that i can get some advise, even the fact this Land Rover is LHD. History of the project is long, way to long. it started some 10 years ago, when i bought a 1967 109" STW, Ex. danish civil defence. got it home, stripped it apart and order a new chassis, springs and started to rebuild it. Then life got in the way: the project has moved twice, changed specs several times and will for sure change again. but this is how it looks to day: 1965 SII 109" STW on the papers Richards Galv. Chassis, made for 2.5 N/A engine, removable gearbox crossmember Rocky mountians spring Salisbury rear axle, series diff. Std. Rover front axle, series diff. Disco 300 TDI engine LT77S gearbox LT230 transfer, ratio 1.2 PAS steering - LHD P38 steering house + defender coloum and the rest series SIII Bulkhead SIII front end SII from bulkhead and backwards. Interior - will come in time.... Status oktober 2015: Chassis with springs, dampers, axles = rolling chassis Engine and gearbos mounts made, using 2.5 N/A chassis mounts, LHD side engine mount from 2.5 and homemade RHD mount to go around the oliefilter, gearbox mounts from 110", bolted to chassis in new holes with crush tubes. engine and gearbox dropped in for test fitting and task finding. SIII bulkhead in the making, found a good one, the only need og new footwells and doorpillars - ready for test fitting and modification to suit the LT77 gearbox and new steering setup. SIII Frontpanel - found a rustfree takeoff, and started to mod it for 300TDI radiator and TD5 intercooler. radiator needs to sit as far to thr RHD side as possible, to leave space for the P38 steering house, the intercooler just high enough to clear it So now the task at hand: being a LHD, my space on the LHD side of the engine is kind of restricted, hence the P38 servo and defender coloum, giving much better space around the Turbo and alternator. i will have to cut the inner wing and make some new, but would prefer keeping it to a minimum. I know I can get(or make one up) a Gwyn Levis bracket for a second or in my case one alternator in the A/C spot, that moves the alternator for me, leaves great space for steering and hoses in the old spot. but what about the Fan belt ? can i just get a shorter one or do i need to make up on idle pully or ?? any advises would be helpfull.
  6. Nigelw

    Gearboxes, again.

    Crunchy 2nd is getting rihht on my t*#s now, weighing up my options, question is, what would everyone else do?
  7. toenden

    inputshaft lt77

    Hi all. On my garage floor I have a broken lt77 gearbox suffix E (outputshaft is missing its splines) from a td engine and a lt77 suffix H from a v8 both from a defender. As i am running a 300tdi in front of a partly worn lt77 in my defender, i was thinking in the lines of swapping the inputshaft from the knackered box into the suffix H box -but is this possible? Mads
  8. No stranger to getting stuck in but now that Rusty is the daily driver I need a handle on what I need for this job before I break it apart!!! Clutch pedal has 1/2" off the bottom of the stroke before it bites so guessing it's about cooked and that crunchy 2nd gear has got to go on the main box!!! I have a good spare LT77 but no transfer case or bell housing so will need to be swapping them over. Questions are, what else am I going to need apart from a clutch kit? Any potential pitfalls I need to be aware of before I break it out? What about the refitting of my old transferbox on the new second hand gearbox? Any setting up to do or how does that go?
  9. Nigelw

    Longevity prognosis?

    Tonight was time to drain the oils off and get the little jobs out the way before next weeks planned safety test, back axle was quite clean, front is clean as I changed that when I did the swap to 24 spline, but the gear box.... Like my christmas tree? Only a couple of smallish fragments in the filter but quite a few flakes. Here is a comparrisson of new ATF and what I drained out. Would anyone be so kind as to give a prognosis on how long this LT77 has before it gets terminal?
  10. ejparrott

    Gaiters and foam

    Can't find the part numbers for the LT77/LT230 gearlever gaiter or the foam insert that sits underneath in the top of the transmissione tunnel. I've looked right through the gearbox section, interior trim, accesories, gearbox again for good measure, can't see any trace of it! Thanks
  11. Hi Chaps I recently got my old RRC a new MOT and back on the road after nearly 10 years. Either I have gone soft or got some of my hearing back, but it is WAY noisier than I remember - and I think a new gearbox will be in short order. It currently has the original gearbox & transfer case in one (lt35?) which makes more noise than the engine at idle when I let the clutch out (layshaft bearings?), and seems like it is going to explode in a shower of cogs beyond about 40mph. It's got oil in it.... I have an autobox which was originally intended to replace it but I can't bring my self to fit it - I kinda like shifting! So...hopefully I can tap some knowledge on my replacement options. This is what I think I know so far: 1. A santana would be strongest, but on the rare side. Given the rather tame offroading I am likely to do probably un-necessary. Annoyingly I turned one of these down about a year a go! 2. R380 next preferred alternative. Looking at ebay I think this will be too expensive for me though. 3. LT77 most likely. I guess I have to look for one off a V8 with the right length bellhousing - so that means off a disco right? Also I have a 1.4:1 LT230 off a TDI which I intended to fit to lower the ratios to suit the bigger wheels. I was thinking about this the other day and thought why, on a diesel engine which revs lower, would you lower the ratio rather than raising it? Have I bought the wrong one? Finally, is there any funny stick arrangements I should be aware of. I'm hoping for a fairly drop-in replacement. (looking forward to being rid of the vacuum difflock tho!) Saw this as an example: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170974830323?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 ...is this what I'm looking for? Sorry about the load of questions, but the more I looked the more I confused myself! Need an expert to tell me how it is. Rob
  12. With the crunch I am getting from my gearbox, it is obvious I need to change the transmission oil. So out comes the 1/2" spanner. Won't budge. get a 12 point socket on it - won't budge. Liberal soaking in WD40, rip up the driver side floor to get better access - no joy. invert a 1/4" torx bit in my drill - lots of smoke, no joy. Blow torch and steady pressure - scary but otherwise uneventful. Finally some pipe-freeze spray - nope. Getting a bit bored with this now. I'm spending a lot of free time studying a 1/2" square plug that seems to be toying with me. The little bugger. Before I roll the truck into my local garage and ask them to "just make it work", are there any other suggestion? Is it time I dug deep and bought an impact wrench? If so, which one?
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