Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'mazda sl35'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • The Lounge
    • International Forum
    • Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
    • Getting out and about
    • Competing in Land Rovers
    • Tools and Fabrication
    • The Video Shack
  • Tech Archive
    • Land Rover Technical Archive
    • Requests for Part Numbers
  • Vehicles
    • Series Forum
    • Defender Forum
    • Freelander Forum
    • Discovery Forum
    • Range Rover Forum
    • Military Forum
    • Evoque Forum

Calendars

There are no results to display.

Blogs

  • LR90's Blog
  • geoffbeaumont's Blog
  • My 1991 RRC 4.0 V8
  • Doublecab Happenings

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 1 result

  1. It's been so long since I wired my RR that I'm just not confident in the conclusions I'm coming to while helping a friend try and get his RRC with Mazda SL35 engine running. I decided to go back to basics and draw up some schematics from scratch using a standard 3.9 RRC diagram as a foundation and working in the SL35 necessities. Was hoping anyone with solid knowledge could throw their eye over them and see if there's any glaring mistakes, and maybe they'd be of use to someone in the future. Note they're all standard RRC 3.9 [1990-ish] wiring colour codes save for the yellow to the preheater [which would be yellow with black tracer from the timer unit to glow plugs on a 1990 diesel RRC]. Also the injection pump cut off isn't included in either diagram. Haven't worked that out yet [any pointers where the glow plug/preheater relay low voltage wiring should be connected in the ignition welcome]. Thanks George Edit: forgot to mention, we can't get this thing to crank. The solenoid just ticks madly and there's the slightest attempt to turn from the crank. We've been using two batteries in rotation between car and charger and monitoring voltage. They both start with 12.3 but as soon as ignition is switched to 1 or 2 the voltage drops to low 11's. Is that normal? We even tried them in series at one point but it made no difference.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy