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Found 17 results

  1. hi...my p38 will run for 20 mins then stops, cranks over fine, just not going. all rest is good...leaver her to cool down for a few hours, she's fine for another 20 mins.was advised to get a new crankcase sensor...did so from Atlantic British...but cannot get the old one off, just cannot access the c clip to unhook the old one from the wiring harness...have taken out the inner wheel arch,. got her raised up on ramps, but still cannot get my hands on the little bugger...dont want to bust or bend any of the pipes around there...and the tin heat shield over the exhaust has got many rusted in and worn bolts so dont want to ruin those too...any ideas anyone?
  2. A familiar problem to P38 owners. A flat battery followed by immobilisation of car. My vehicle is a 2001 P38 4.0L Petrol automatic. No previous history of electrical problems or gremlins, both key fobs working and only ever had to rest them after a key fob battery change. Then an extended period abroad resulted in a flat battery probably caused by winter temperature drop. The battery had failed while the vehicle was locked leaving the immobiliser in an armed state. Any attempt to enter or start car simply resulted in alarm initiation. First Steps 1) Recharged battery. But was not convinced the battery was up to it. 2) Opened door and waited for alarm to stop. Behaviour 1) Dash alarm light winking showing alarm armed. 2) No response to remote operation of fob. 3) Manual operation of driver’s door unlocked driver’s door only. Next Steps 1 1) Inserted key to ignition and to position II 2) Alarm sounds. Patiently wait 3) Dash showing ENGINE DISABLED. Other expected error messages: WINDON RH NOT SET, SUNROOF NOT SET etc etc Next Steps 2 1) Individually opened and closed windows and sunroof to full reach and back. Removed key 2) Exited vehicle locked manually. 3) Made sure all doors locked and bonnet slammed closed: 4) 4 turns anti-clockwise in driver’s door lock to enter EKA mode. All models after ‘96. Checked my EKA code with Land Rover Customer Experience Desk on 0370 5000 500. No charge will ask ownership details. Very helpful. Mine appeared to be right and matched that in the service book a. * turns clockwise b. * turns anti-clockwise c. * turns clockwise d. * turns anti-clockwise Behaviour. 1) Nothing. No response to EKA. No indicator repeater or dashboard response. 2) Pretty clear EKA mode not being activated. Next Steps 3 1) Tried many times to input EKA Code. (sob) 2) Attempted the generic RR P38 code of 1515 which apparently works in NAS and on individual UK RHD vehicles which may have had their BeCM reset/replaced. While this did not work neither after three incorrect entries did the car enter KEY CODE LOCKOUT state which it should have done. This signalled that the car was not going to respond to EKA and further attempts were pointless. Should KEY CODE LOCKOUT show on the message dash go away and leave the vehicle alone until 30 minutes have passed. While it is not accepting the code under these conditions the vehicle is in EKA normal status. Interim Conclusion There appear to be two conditions that account for this behaviour: 1) The BeCM entered ‘Lockout’ mode. This state of immobilisation means the BeCM will not respond to the conventional EKA procedure. It needs to be reset with correct software. In this condition would not have responded to EKA input via NANOCOM. It is likely that some hurried and panicky attempts at EKA with jump leads on donor car, bonnet raised, windows not set etc etc sufficiently confused the BeCM that it decided to put itself into lockout. 2) The microswitches on the driver’s door latch and actuator have become faulty, meaning the BeCM does not know that the EKA procedure is being initiated. With no specialist testing skill, proper workshop facilities or tools (would have given an arm for a NANOCOM and instructions how to use it) the elimination approach was decided upon. Gut feeling was that with the car in good condition this was more likely a BeCM problem than an actuator microswitch. Phoned Turner Diagnostics https://www.turnerdiagnostics.com/. Hugely helpful telephone discussion. They advised BeCM reset. Removing and Resetting BeCM 1) Disconnected battery. 2) Removed base trims from driver seat (RHD model). Large plastic press fasteners. 3) Removed 4 x T45 screws holding seat onto frame. 4) Unplugged 3 x multi-plugs under the seat. The Bordeaux is a base model, classier RR may have more seat electrics. 5) Left seat belt harness in place and shifted seat into rear cabin. 6) Unscrewed under seat blower vent from top of BeCM 7) Watched a YouTube Land Rover video on the BeCM for workshop staff made in the ‘90s. Did not learn much of use but weirdly found it interesting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3uLZoQ-DEY 😎 The BeCM is laptop sized and held in place by three 12mm nuts. It is fed by multiplugs and power cables. I took photos of the connections, but the multi-plugs are mostly different sizes and with limited cable tolerance length. You would have to work hard to reconnect it wrongly. 9) Unplugged the unit lifts free. It is large but light and would ship easily. But given the time it would take to find a box, wrap and stand in a post office line on pension day I drove the 70 miles to Turners and handed it in. It’s a common problem according to the team, with them receiving 4-5 a day from some far-flung places across the globe. Replacing the BeCM Turners took a day to reset the unit. They disarmed the immobiliser and reset the EKA state. As importantly they gave me 30 minutes of their time and knowledge about this area of Range Rover P38. They charged £150 for the reset and get my business in the future. They provide a reset report with some useful information on the BeCM settings for the particular vehicle. Refitting the BeCM was the reverse of removal. 1) Ensure battery is disconnected. 2) The multi-plugs basically only fit one way. 3) Be prepared to wrestle/mangle the plastic trim plugs. Useful preparation to have acquired a few spares. 4) Don’t leave keys in car and leave drivers door open. (This is purely precautionary) 5) Reconnect battery. Any memory settings in the car such as radio will have been lost. 6) Enter the car turn on ignition to position II. Wait a few seconds before starting the engine. (heart stopping moment as display gave the dreaded ENGINE DISABLED warning to be replaced with cheers by the new alert ENGINE START. 7) Ranger Rover P38 returned to the living. 😎 Resync the key (in my case using the driver’s door (see below). 9) Spend thirty minutes with false alarms and messages, which I cleared by patiently and methodically resetting all windows doors and locks. For example, on first reconnection the FOB would only centrally unlock the doors and not lock them. However, after a test drive, this error corrected itself. There seemed to be a period of the BeCM resetting itself and synchronising itself back to the states of various electrical systems. What did I learn? 1) The BeCM did its job in going to lockout. My initial unstructured attempts at jump starting, EKA process and key synching all on a fading battery, (less than 12v) told it that I was attempting to thieve a £3000 piece of ‘90s automobile. At that point no amount of EKA attempts, even with the correct EKA code, would resolve the situation, nor would submitting the code through NANOCOM. It had to be reset through software. 2) Lockout, while serious should not happen if the EKA number is present. The design logic is that if the legitimate owner has the code lockout only happens to bad guys. Fair enough but relies on owners to keep proper records. 3) Why did the EKA process not work in the first place? I now know the BeCM was not the original unit!!. Despite FSH, plenty of paperwork an original owners handbook with EKA number on security card and after confirming the number with Land Rover Customer Experience, the previous owner had not thought to pass the new code on. If the EKA process does not work it is important to investigate the unit before taking other action. 4) Although my model is 2001, the BeCM is probably from a pre-96 vehicle. Using a different BeCM is like a brain transplant with the VIN and other details of a probably scrapped P38 continuing as a ghost like influence in its new body. This is no real problem (if you know) and it works perfectly well except the behaviour of the car will match the BeCM not the vehicle itself: a. The key synchronisation to be followed is through the door not the ignition as my handbook and research told me. b. The 4 turns anti-clockwise to initiate the EKA process was simply confusing the BeCM unit. 5) If the FOB does not work and the key only operates the driver’s door and not the central locking, then the immobiliser is probably armed. 6) The Immobiliser state and the EKA state are different. 7) I have always wondered why my cruise control did not work. It is not enabled in this BeCM probably because it was not a feature of the BeCM’s original vehicle. It now does! 😎 If the battery goes flat follow the handbook procedure for removing it. Otherwise the BeCM receives a signal it does not like, assumes theft attempt and locks itself. If possible, recharge the battery in situ on a trickle charge setting. 9) Treat with caution the various remedies and solutions available on the internet. The diagnostic team’s view was that: door actuation problems are rare, lockout is more likely. Connecting positive and negative battery leads to clear errors on a P38 is (ahem) rubbish. Setting ignition key to position II and then connecting battery is more likely to invite KEY CODE LOCKOUT than solving the problem. Final Advice. 1) If EKA procedure does not work, make absolutely sure (beyond doubt) that the code is correct and that the input method is that for the age of the unit not the vehicle. 2) If EKA does not work, only the driver’s door can be unlocked and the alarm sounds on entering the vehicle. Then assume lockout. 3) Call for professional advice before attempting other methods. Turner Diagnostics 0044 (0) 1442 601028
  3. So usual problem of a 2001 P38 EKA lockout following battery drain. Vehicle did not respond to EKA procedure, any procedure no repeater lights, dash lights, not even KEY CODE LOCKOUT to an incorrect code. Fitted a new Optima battery but disconnecting and reconnecting battery resulted in dash KEY CODE LOCKOUT and a 30 minute wait, which I considered odd. Still no EKA joy and a telephone diagnosis advised that the BeCM was locked out and needed resetting. Decided to remove BeCM and send to Turner Diagnostics in Hemel Hempstead (https://www.turnerdiagnostics.com/). BeCM now been returned having been reset and am preparing to refit to car. With BeCM refitted I then need to reconnect battery. Question to those who know more than me: Will this re-connection result in KEY CODE LOCKOUT and will I have to attempt EKA procedure again? Any helpful advice appreciated.
  4. So,... I am back from the UK, new downpipe & cat is fitted, Gott's charged me a bit less in the end which was a pleasant surprise. Now i want to investigate the white 'smoke' from inside the rocker cover, first call is check and clean the crankcase breather, but with the help of the parts lad in Gott's I established that my late model doesn't have the expected external breather/cyclone fitting under the top cover???? so does it have an internal filter like some of the 2 litre and 3 litre??? The parts book nor the Gott parts computer software was any help,... anyone been there and done it please??
  5. Well just giving 'Woodie' a service and check over before getting on the ferry Friday and as soon as I pulled into the shed I heard the exhaust blowing. B*gger! Looking underneath; It is clear that the support has rusted through (strange?) and with the weight on the flexi it has been too much for the ageing mesh and spiral. So quick rush into town but because of its age etc. no-one has any bits for it, .... getting used to that. Plan B then,.... I have welded a new bar onto the support, and employed the wonderfully titled 'Auspuff-Bandage' and a couple of big hose clamps to reduce the undesired 'Auspuff' at the bottom of the flexi, hoping there is enough flex in the rest of it to get us to the ferry! We are away for a week or so, so the rest of Plan B is obviously to get it sorted while we are in the UK. Any tips for replacements that fall in reasonably easy reach of my transit from Pembroke dock to Littlehampton will be gratefully recieved. Rest of the service went fine except that I have white smoke from the oil filler, I am hoping that is just a breather issue but I will do a compression check when I get a chance, power level seems fine otherwise.
  6. Just thought I would share this as a cautionary tale, why you shouldn't just do a bit more when you are tired and your feet are hurting but you really want to get on with the job. It all started when the Range Rover failed its DOE or MOT, mainly brakes (working well, but condition of components), but also the front right hand ball joints. I managed to source new ball joints locally (an eye watering €100 for the pair mind you!) which meant I could get on with it over the weekend. It all started reasonably well, but in common with George's 'SOUP' experience it all takes much longer than you intend. So I get to the end of Saturday, I have the new lower ball joint in and I thought I would just finish off by putting the top one in as well......... Can you tell it is the first time I have tackled the job? Although in my defense it is counter-intuitive to fit the flange uppermost. It was a pig to get out and cost at least 2 hours wasted effort. Also the cheapy press clamp cups were fine to put it in the other way but much less so the right way. As you see here I had to drill a lump of heavy plate and cut an bit of tube to help. Sorted now but lesson learned!
  7. After dropping the brats at school, I stopped in front of my gate to open it, left the car idling in Neutral, and when I got in and selected Drive it made a weird "grumbling" noise and didn't go into gear. Reverse was brief and then any selection after that was a no-go. Revving it in Drive got a short hop, enough to get it moving, and then back to nothing. The oil level is good and the GEARBOX FAULT message comes up, but not every time I tried to work through diagnosis. To add insult to injury, my Nanocom won't come on when plugged in. It works on my Disco, not the P38. Any ideas, please?
  8. Hi Recently acquired an arb air locker (rd 138) for a shortnose differential (p38 type) found in range rover p38, discovery 2 and later 110 from 2002 to present. Is it possible to fit a td5/puma 110/130, non abs, short nose axle on to a 90?, I'm asking this as I would like to fit the air locker onto my 90. thanks Chris
  9. Hope someone can help with this problem. Dashboard warning on my P38 that left hand side light blown. Simple job to replace but as soon as new bulb fitted that blew also. Only the side light is blowing, main beam fine. Tried two more times with new bulbs but the same result, immediately blew. Wiring, as far as I can see, looks fine and undamaged. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, B&P
  10. Hi I'm fittings a P38 Pas system on my 109" and in this Project i need to get the bolt and pitman arm of the PAS box, but the bolt is stuck. Before setting it up in a vice and applying BIG air tool forces to it or even heating it. Any tips or hints would be nice, Thanks
  11. Hi all hope you can help me out with this it's my first Range Rover and I love it it's just a bit disappointing at the moment but I will persevere. INFO : P38 4.6 1997 190k on the clock, it has LPG but I have no idea if it works correctly (multi point). I have no history on the vehicle FAULT: Thick black smoke on acceleration Slight misfire ( more prominent on deceleration)pops and bangs not to loud. After accelerating the revs drop right down 200/300 rpm sometimes stalls. New fuel Plugs look new Only one warning on dash ( fuel gauge ) I will sort out once running right. I dare say it's been talked about before I'm just hoping to piggyback on some of the knowledge and experience that is out there.
  12. hi, my mums 2.5dse p38 has a problem with the climate control it says its alot hotter out side than it is thus it cools the air rather than heating it ,could this be a simple snser has moved thing or is it somthing else ??? any help would be greatly appreciated
  13. Hi People, first time posting so be gentle with me! I own a P38 2001 (X Reg) 4.6l V8 Vogue and recently took it for the engine to be de-carbonised. I was told that when they by-passed the fuel pump via the terraclean machine the engine would not start! Do we know if there is a way to trick the ecu into thinking the fuel pump is still attached? Any ideas would be appreciated! Cheers Els.
  14. Hi Recently, last week in fact, I took leave of my senses and bought a 4.0 V8 P38 running LPG on an 'R' plate (150k miles - I paid a pittance...). The beast ran fine apart from a tapping on idle which I intended to fix with a couple of cams etc. We used the car to tow from Cornwalll to Devon, did a bit of greenlaning and had a blast wondering what all the fuss was about with regards to P38's. On the way home my girlfriend and I smelt hot water so I checked the temperature, which was fine, pulled over and sure enough the pipe from the top of the radiator to the expansion tank had split. Fortunately we stopped on a garage forecourt so I was able to buy some pipe and clips and replace the defective part, top up the coolant and drive off. All the way back I kept an eye on the temperature gauge which sat at halfway only once rising up to three quarters up the white on a long incline. All of a sudden she started missing, then lost power and died. Fortunately I was at a service station so was able to turn in and call the aa. The car wouldn't turn over at all and I was afraid that I had seised (sp?) the engine. I let the car cool down and waited for the AA. When the chap turned up he tried the motor and it turned freely, too freely. The cooling system was pressurised and so he came to the conclusion that the head gasket had blown. Thanks for reading this far, there is a point: 1: I will have to do the work myself, I am competent and have been playing with rover V8's for a while but not attempted a stripdown and rebuild like this. I intend to get the heads checked and skimmed if necassary, replace the gaskets, replace the cams and followers (guessing they are hydraulic?). Question - Is it likely that the bores have suffered damage? If so how do I check? is there anywhing else I should know/consider before continuing? 2: Breaing in mind all that will cost me about £500 I can get a replacement motor for the same money with a 30day warranty. Qyestion - Would that be a better course of action? Thanks in advance for any input. Matt
  15. Hi All, My new P38 is going well. However, i am trying to get to know it better and sort out some of the little problems..... Last night i was having a look in the fusebox (at relays 6 and 7), as the book is showing on the Hevac. The first thing that struck me was the (slight) smell of hot PCB. And the second thing that struck me was the fusebox has been changed and is almost new! Now my question is, if a very new looking fusebox is already smelling hot, what can i do to prevent the (fuse contract burning) problem before it occurs? The pollen filters have also been changed recently... Any thoughts? Regards, AB.
  16. Hi All I converted a Thor 4.6 (as found in P38 Range Rover) to high compression (with ported heads) and installed it into a friend's '81 Range Rover. No major issues but the following presented a few challenges: 1) Heater hoses (Jaguar hoses I had lying in the garage offered a solution); 2) Coolant return from inlet manifold to header tank required an additional connection to the header tank; 3) clean air supply ; 4) fuel supply: An external, adjustable fuel pressure regulator is used with a fuel return back to the tank. I installed a submerged fuel pump into the tank - same as what is used in Disco 1 V8 (95 onwards) - but had to use the fuel level sensor connections (already not functioning) to get power into the tank. 5) Fan cowling - Modified a Disco1 cowl. Still, even without a cowl, no overheating is experienced although temp is not as stable as what it is with a proper cowl. Using an external 82degC thermostat (Freelander) and water hoses as per Disco2. I'm using the original Crank Position Sensor, original coil pack and idle valve but engine management is under control of Megasquirt 2, modified for wasted spark to control the coils directly via a forward ignition module I built to keep EMI noise away from MS. An air flow sensor is not needed in this implementation but a real time barometric sensor is imperative to cater for altitude changes. Knock sensors are not being used.
  17. Range Rover P38a 2.5 DT BOSCH EDC 1.3.1 with OBDII Diag plug. 1998 Model, based UK, 69.000 miles VIN not to hand I want to be able to interrogate my EDC 1.3.1 controller. A look at this site shows someone posted MWscan460.jpg which appears to be a propriety cable and interface. ( under 300tdi EDC 1.3.1 google search) I have bought an OBDII cable and EAS cable and software solution. The car bonnet sticker does not say OBDII compliant, so I know the engine and gearbox solution will only work with petrol P38a- if I were to get one) However my P38DT is pre-OBDII even though it has an OBDII plug. This is common to many vehicles in that they look OBDII even when they are not. I think the protocol is ISO9141 and it would appear that my OBD cable is wired to allow ISO9141. Given that faultmate and autologic and others can read this protocol I would like to be able to do the same if possible with software such as Scantool, OBDiag etc which are all shareware. However they all say they only do OBDII I don't want to be on Hawkeye or anything else handheld as I am a PC professional of 20 years abnd don;t wawnt to go down thehandheld route. So- Anyone know how to read engine data and temps etc on a P38 DT 1998 era thanks I am happy to chop my cable if required and change pins if required, or place an interface box in the middle, just as long as I can read the figures on a PC screen Thanks anyone PS I did also find ve169 program which appears to be very full and even has choices for ISO9141 and old Land Rover CAN but it does not work - see screenprint attached. Although it says ISO-9141-2 I know this is backwards compatible so it should work.
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