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Found 10 results

  1. Hi all, I've got myself into a problem with my windscreen washer pump. As you can see from the photos, the connection isn't the regular run of the mill, possibly down to my disco 1 300tdi being one of the last to roll off the production line. The male connector has two prong with a metal cube attached to each prong. One of these "cubes" managed to fall out and it can't make a proper connection with the pump anymore. End result is a blown fuse with each attempt to wash the windscreen. I overcame this by swapping the tubing so that when i press rear wash button it sprays my windscreen but this has now become an issue for my MOT. Any suggestions on how i might rectify this? I've ordered a standard washer pump which takes the standard two pin connector (same as what my rear washer pump has) and was hoping to get my hands on a male connector (white) to wire up to replace my red two prong connector. Is this easily done? FYI both pumps have two wires connected, a black and a green. Thanks in advance, Frank
  2. Hi, We recently bought a 1999 Freelander 2nd hand from a couple down the road. After the freezing cold night on Sunday, we went to drive to the shops and found that the car wouldn't start. The engine cranked slowly and the injector clicked. Suspecting it was a low battery, we attempted to bump-start the car to no avail (though we probably didn't do it right anyway). Yesterday we called out breakdown and the lad attempted to jump-start the car, which also failed. He suspected a dodgy fuel pump, and (with the jump-starter still connected) after kicking the fuel tank the car started once but failed on subsequent attempts. We added 10L of fuel last night, just in case, but this afternoon the car failed to start again, and the battery seems to be almost out too as lights pulse when the engine cranks over. After doing some searching on the internet I found a YouTube video detailing how to replace the fuel pump & sender unit. Now here's the fun part... Under the under-seat mats in the rear of the car, we discovered dodgy wiring and a VERY rusty pump cover. I've put together a huge collection of images here. Would any of you kind souls be willing to take up the mats in your Freelander and show us what it's supposed to look like under there? Also, do you have any ideas about what could be causing the issue (and how to rectify it)? Sam
  3. Hi all newbie here. i have an 89 rrc 3.5 non carb v8, on LPG, which ran perfectly well untill the other day i have done a lot of welding work etc etc, installed a new 25 litre petrol tank (as i didnt have one, just a jerry can with the original pump inside) to start her up before switching to gas, problem is now my mechanic mate seems to think we may have a fueling issue also a ignition issue. sometimes starts sometimes wont sometimes starts and runs at 3000 rpm sometimes takes ages to start like its got no spark/fuel then spurts to life. fuel pump was for a 3.9 v8 rated and new 8mm ID fuel line front to back booth flow and return disconnected the condensor from the + of the coil and it started so thought that was the issue but tried with it re-connected and it work. does anybody know the test for the condensor as i may be braking down with the initial start up,thus shorting out the coil,, also (not noticed by me as im a lowly spark) but my mechanic mate noticed a part missing from the ignition system carnt remember right now what he called it tho ( will post for now and review later) any help or suggestion would be very much appreciated
  4. Good evening, Since owning my 1992 2 Door Manual, I have always experienced odd brake pedal behaviour. When I go to touch the pedal, it kicks back at me 80% of the time. I get some minute travel at first, then I feel the hard push back. Usually this is accompanied by harsh initial braking, which can be very jolting in slow traffic. Reapplying the pedal after letting off usually allows me to modulate the braking force better. After the kick back, the pedal is very hard. This also happens with the ignition off. Another symptom of something not being quite right is the ABS pump. When I first got the car I could always hear this pump whirring when I switched the ignition on. At first I thought it was the fuel pump, but have since learnt it is the ABS pump. This comes on for about 45s when the ignition is first switched on. If I switch the ignition off for a few seconds and turn it back on again, I can hear the pump going again, but this time for about 3-5 seconds. Something to note is that, with the ignition on, if I press the brake pedal, the pump kicks in again for another few seconds. The ABS pump itself looks newish, it must have been replaced in the past couple of years looking at the condition compared to the rest of the system. I have lived with the car for a few months and had just assumed this was a RRC 'thing', I have no experience to suggest otherwise. The reason for the forum post now is a near miss on a drive to the mountains this weekend gone. The car two in front slammed on the anchors for a pedestrian crossing. I reacted, but the stopping power wasn't as great as I expected and with further pedal force the wheels locked. I narrowly escaped an accident. Thankfully no coffee was spilled. Either way, the lack of ABS worried me somewhat, so now I'm coming to you lot for advice. Any said advice gratefully received. - Richard
  5. Hi there I own a 2002 Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5 2.5 Diesel which over the years I have had quite a few problems with. Recently over the past 2-3 weeks I have had major problems with the vehicle. The problem which I am having is that the vehicle has developed a constant whirring noise even when the engine is running and whilst driving. Over the past week it has taken 8 attempts to try and start the vehicle and sometimes I have had to prime it to get it to start. However this week it has taken 2-3 attempts to start the vehicle and I cannot understand what is causing this problem. We took it to our local garage yesterday and it has had a new fuel filter fitted by the mechanic. The mechanic thinks it may be the fuel pump but cannot be 100% certain and does not want to put a wrong part on. It has been on the diagnostic machine and there is nothing showing up for this model. He also said there was diesel swishing around in the fuel tank, could this be something to do with the injectors and is there a return valve somewhere on the vehicle? Has anybody else had problems like this? Any information would be most appreciated
  6. My first post to the forum, I'm a Brit living in Norway. 2007 FL2 HSE, Diesel, Auto, 100k Kms Advice please - The other morning I was pulling out from a T-junction when the engine cut out, the 'Reduced Power' warning came on (like it used to when the DPF needed cleaning) the engine cut out completely & it wouldn't start again, though the it turns over fine. The fuel tank is a third full after being filled last week. There was no mechanical noise or rattle & no stutter from the engine, it just cut out. The local LR dealer has removed the high pressure pump & says he can see inside the the end of the cylinder head that the camshaft driving the pump is broken off near the end. His explanation being that a small piece of dirt had got through the fuel filter causing the pump to stall momentarily. This would have tried to stop everythign else turning that it was connected to & the end of the camshaft (being thinner cross-sectional area) had snapped off. He says all parts linked to the pump should be changed - fuel pump, both camshafts, timng belt, water pump, timing chain & tensioner) this comes to £5000 plus labour!! He doesn't list the fuel filter for some reason. I have 3 questions: 1 - Does this sound like a plausible scenario given that the 'reduced power warning came on for a few seconds & there was no 'bang' or rattle when it happened? 2 - If that's what happened, is it really necessary to replace all those other parts that probably look OK. 3 - What's to stop another piece of dirt blocking the pump again the week after I get ti repaired? I appreciate any advice & suggestions. My current plan is to move the car to a private mechanic (not LR specialist) recommended by a friend & try to source whatever parts are really needed from the UK. Thanks guys!
  7. desperatly trying to get my steering bled, it is doing my head in and need my work truck back on the road, please help. power steering died when driving home the other day, so pulled over to find the pump looking pretty hot and smoking, so took the belt off and drove home. thought it would be the pump so bought a new britpart one from paddocks, fitted it and there was no change. so then thought it must be the box, took the box off and replaced that. had a small piece of mushed up aluminium fall out of one of the port holes when i chucked the old box on the bench which reassured me it was buggered. so now have new pump and box and still cant get power steering to work, i tried bleeding it for hours last night. got the wheels jacked up, and nipple un-done. have been steeruing from side to side like a mad man but the pump isnt pumping!!! it is not circulating in the reseviour, and i can crack off the banjo bolt for the pump outlet whilst its going and it doesnt come pissing out like you would expect? i cannot get it bled through. tried for ages then thought that the new pump must be carp so refitted the old one (as it seems to work fine in my hand), and i cannot get that bled thrugh either! bear in mind, pumps good, box is good, pipes and all good and resevior definatly not blocked as ive checked it. if you have had this problem yourself then i would appreciate some advice.
  8. Just discovered that im leaking fuel out of (I believe) the small hole near the top of the lift pump where it is cleanest on the picture. Is this just a need to replace the lift pump or some other problem? Im also not sure if im leaking more oil than normal or if its just the fuel washing oil of the rest of the engine to make me think this.
  9. So i got my first RRC and love it! ('92 Vogue with some aftermarket mods) In order to register it on Australian roads it needs to have a valid (30-day) roadworthy certificate, which it failed due to leaking power steering - I managed not to say "Well, Duh!" to the mechanic. Leaks come from both the steering box and the pump. Managed to slow the flow with Stop Leak, maybe enough to pass - we'll see. Anyway, i've looked over many forums and tech diagrams but cant find an answer to a simple question; apologies if already been asked. What type(s) of oil/fluid is in the steering box? The pump leaks Power Steering fluid (reddish clear fluid) which obviously gets piped into the steering box; but the leak at the steering box output shaft seems to be colourless. Is there an additional feed or oil reservoir that i can't find, or am I just going colour blind? Thanks, Kenny
  10. Hi all, First post, and first Freelander. 2003 1.8 Kalahari which needs a new fuel pump - common problem, I know. The Freelander has the later fuel pump, which by the book is part number WFX000210. This fits 1.8 for 2003-2006, and 2.5 v6 2001-2006. Would be easiest to just buy one of those new and fit. However, I have a good offer on a WFX000190, which by the book only fits 2.5 v6 2001-2002. However, since you can also fit the WFX000210 to the 2001-2002 v6, the differences must be very minor - in fact I can't see any at all from photos! Anyone know the differences? Is there a chance these are interchangeable? Could I fit the WFX000190 to my 2003 1.8 and very likely it will be fine? Appreciate the conservative approach would be not to and just fit a new original part, but I'd like to get the car back on the road for as little money as possible so interested in a knowledgeable or risk-taker's response! Thanks, Steve. PS Also open to the offer of a good WFX000210 pump for sale at a reasonable price!
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