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Found 12 results

  1. When I purchased my $450 1989 Range Rover, the original dashboard was in rough condition and needed parts and repair. Since this vehicle was intended to by an overlander and a field research vehicle, I had decided to fabricate a new dash with exhaust tubing and MDF and fiberglass, rather than source the missing and broken parts. I had experimented with several design ideas and settled on something simple but functional. The most difficult part was engineering vents for the front window defrost that didn't look homemade. As I wrestled with that final issue for a short time, I discovered the 1995 soft dash Range Rover in one of my magazines. As an old custom stereo installer I had worked with all dashboard types (and had done my fair share of insurance dash repair/replacements) and really appreciated the ergonomics and quality of the nineties Honda and Toyota designs. The Range Rover soft dash had many comparable design features that I valued and I thought it would make the perfect foundation for a functional custom dashboard. I was in Uganda at the time, but I started searching craigslist in the US for a decent one, not realizing how uncommon they were, particularly in the States. Surprisingly, it was only a matter of weeks before I found one about 120 miles from my home in Washington State. A complete 1995 Range Rover, totaled from an engine bay fire, with no engine or transmission. Everything else but the hood, fuel pump, center console, and upper/lower tailgate were still there and in extraordinary condition (I did not know this at the time). During a layover in Nairobi on my way back home, I negotiated a deal at a restaurant bar at the Jomo Kenyatta airport. I picked up the '95 just two days later, for a cool $400. It turned out to be quite an ordeal as it was in a barn up a muddy slope and the seller had an injured arm and could not help much at all. He had me use his tractor (which I had no experience driving) to get the rover down the slope and onto my trailer. I wasn't going to be deterred. Once secured on the trailer, I towed it home in the blowing snow with my trusty P38 without any further incident. The next day revealed a beautiful factory arctic white 1995 LWB Range Rover. Though, all of the electrical in the engine compartment was destroyed in the fire, the body panels were all straight and the paint was exceptional. Sadly, at the time, there were so many Classics that were getting junked it didn't seem worthwhile to save this one, particularly because it would have needed an entire new harness from the cowl forward. In retrospect this one was an ideal candidate for restoration and I regret not saving it, but I didn't see it at the time. I also had an '88 that should have been restored too--I couldn't give that one away. Seriously. Anyway, I stripped the '95 of everything that I could use for my '89. I harvested the 24 spline axles, spindles, swivel balls, all the brake components, body panels (nothing common to my ’89 except the rear corners and front grill), and on an on. I even tried to remove the perfect factory heated windshield (not compatible with non-soft dash) to sell. My friend correctly informed me that they were rare and therefore valuable. Unfortunately my skills were not up to the task and I cracked the glass while trying to separate it from the adhesive. Nowadays, that egregious error could be classified as a legitimate crime, as you cannot buy a new one here in the States. The next task was to remove the entire interior. I had no interest in anything apart from the dash and door panels, but I surgically removed everything for the sake of preservation. Maybe I would find someone interested in the pristine seats. I even carefully extracted all of the electronics and wiring, which I happily would later exploit to maintain factory consistency. I knew the front glass was different than my ’89, but I was not expecting the firewall to be as well. I was shocked to find that LR had changed the sheet metal for a half production year (I think 2 in the European market), prior to the release of a complete redesign. This required more work than I had anticipated, but once again I refused to be deterred. What follows are a few photos and description of the work. Unfortunately, I lost most of my pictures in a hard-drive mishap. Fortunately I was able to rescue some low quality versions of my pictures from this project from another forum, who has since purged my threads from their system due to inactivity. I was in Uganda and Germany most of the last 10 years and had not signed in once in that time, so my account had vaporized. Anyway, I apologize for the few and poor pictures and this long intro. If I ever find a copy of my old photos from this time period I will repost.
  2. I have a RRC with a 2.5L VM diesel with LT77 5-speed. I have access to a running 300tdi from a Defender. What parts do I need to get the motor swapped into my Range Rover Classic? I would like to keep my LT77 as the Defender's R380 needs rebuilding and my LT77 is just fine. Appreciate the input! Eric
  3. It's been so long since I wired my RR that I'm just not confident in the conclusions I'm coming to while helping a friend try and get his RRC with Mazda SL35 engine running. I decided to go back to basics and draw up some schematics from scratch using a standard 3.9 RRC diagram as a foundation and working in the SL35 necessities. Was hoping anyone with solid knowledge could throw their eye over them and see if there's any glaring mistakes, and maybe they'd be of use to someone in the future. Note they're all standard RRC 3.9 [1990-ish] wiring colour codes save for the yellow to the preheater [which would be yellow with black tracer from the timer unit to glow plugs on a 1990 diesel RRC]. Also the injection pump cut off isn't included in either diagram. Haven't worked that out yet [any pointers where the glow plug/preheater relay low voltage wiring should be connected in the ignition welcome]. Thanks George Edit: forgot to mention, we can't get this thing to crank. The solenoid just ticks madly and there's the slightest attempt to turn from the crank. We've been using two batteries in rotation between car and charger and monitoring voltage. They both start with 12.3 but as soon as ignition is switched to 1 or 2 the voltage drops to low 11's. Is that normal? We even tried them in series at one point but it made no difference.
  4. Hi all, long time reader, first time poster, I do apologise for my long winded post but I want to be sure I'm not leaving anything out So heres the story, I've got a 1993 range rover 3.9L v8 which I've had for about 6 years, bar a spate of radiator issues a few years ago its bern pretty reliable. That is until about 2 months ago, I left it sitting for 2 days while I went away, I go to start it and it would turn on then cut off, I'm with the RAC so I got them to come out and diagnose the problem, a broken ignition module, so I replaced that and it worked fine for about a week, then I had starting problems again, I checked the wiring on the ignition module and that was all fine, so again, instead of wasting money on a mobile mechanic, I call RAC, this time its diagnosed as the fuel pump, it would start by hitting the fuel tank.. So, after about a week of hitting the fuel tank, I replaced the fuel pump and filter, and it drove fine for about 3 weeks. Until I took it for a drive and left it for 2hrs, it wouldn't start again, so I left it till morning and tried again, fired up fine.. Then drove normally. Until last Sunday, I took it for a drive then it sat for a few hours and I headed home, along the way it stalled going up a very slight Hill, I pulled over and it started up again fine, for about 2kms, I heard a click then lost all power again and had to be towed home, in the hour it took from breaking down to getting home the hazard lights drained my battery completely flat. So I charged the battery overnight and found a blown 10A "fuelling" fuse under the passenger seat, I replace the fuse and battery and it started fine. Being that my battery was at least 5 years old and only 560CCA I decided to replace it with a new 720CCA battery, it drove fine to the auto store and I replaced the battery, it started up much faster than usual and I drove it back home, only about 4kms, I get into the driveway and power the window up, I lose all power again, this time for good, I couldn't find any blown fuses and read through the workshop manual to no avail. I called the RAC again, and this time the diagnosis was there was no pulse at the injector... I have 2 theories, and neither sound good A) I have an injector ecu problem? B) although I have an aftermarket immobiliser, could it be that the stock antitheft system/ecu has gone haywire and is causing my starting problems Is there anything else I can look at myself without having to enlist the help of a mechanic or autoelectrician? What more can I do?
  5. Bonjour Tous ! I have been offered a good - as in very little rust etc. - LHD 4 door RRC Saudi Spec. Right now, it is a 3.5 inj. with a 5 speed manual box (LT77 I guess ???) Quick questions : 1 - IF LT77 gearbox is fitted, will it accept a 200 or 300 Tdi ? 2 - What better diesel engine options are there ? (Mazda I know already - had several) if - a very big IF - I'd were to go the RRC route it will do about 35,000 miles a year so LPG is an option.. Diesel, however, is so much easier in many way. Perhaps the 3rd. question should be "am I insane to even consider getting a RRC"....
  6. So I am rescuing a 84” Range Rover Classic. Bought it for parts, then decided that it was within my power and budged to save it. I thought it was 2”lifted, but turns out it is 4” lifted… so I think the original driveshaft was: Or to short? Or it hits the cross member? The previous owner changed it to part FRC9542 and this is a solid axle, very nice and small. Only its rare and the price second hand is its weight in gold.. The UJ’s seems in fairly good conditions and are affordable new and in stock at paddocks, so not a problem. Only it seems that the sliding shaft is worn. it has a lot of play in it, I can move it around quite a lot. On the 2 picture’s I could find online the sliding piece has a metal cap screwed on, mine seems plastic. Is this fixable? Are there new sliding couplings available? The picture from eBay: (I take a picture tomorrow)
  7. Hi Guys I am continuing my project and I am having some cad design done however my car is away at mo so need some dimensions checked. If you have a set of technical drawings that would be awesome, if not if one of you could help me that would be most helpful. See the attached image and its tags. For now I need the following dimensions in mm A Upper body line between line and bottom of C post B Tail light height back edge C Lower body line minimum height between body line and bottom edge of bumper D Lower body front edge of wheel arch and door aperture E Door length along top body line F Measurement between body lines G Wing length along shut line between door and indicator H Panel behind bonnet and below screen I Panel as per H above but in middle of car bottom of screen to bonnet (realise there is air vent in way but best you can get) J Front indicator height at back edge. Thank you for your help in advance!
  8. Next on my list for RR Classic resto is moving the horrible (ineffective) bonnet mounted mirrors on to the doors. I have researched this a bit and there seems to be two styles of mounts one on the door and one in the quarter light on the CSK. I am 21st century modernising the car so want door mounts but I am thinking about alternatives to the ugly mini metro types that seem to persist. So thinking radical thoughts on using merc G wagon items then I get heated and electric.... oh and indicators? Any other suggestions?
  9. My fuel flap actuator won't return to normal position so flap can be pushed shut. Motor works but shaft does not extend far enough to put catch back in position. Have tried Wd40 etc. It is 1994 model. no part number on actuator just Maker, 'Kiekert 6, W germany'. Not available as a spare. Was this fitted to any other car at that time, perhaps Ford or BMW? Does anyone have an exploded diagram of this item? I have tried to dismantle but 'lid' seem to be very well fixed. It might need sawing off. Thanks, walace58
  10. Hi, Western, Please see below, I have tried lots of manual drawings but nothing shows the article below Walace58 -------- Further to my fuel flap actuator saga, now resolved, I have had a tapping vibration sound from the back of the vehicle, which I put down to a pressure relief valve for the fuel tank/ system. I think I may have found the culprit, when accessing the fuel flap actuator, fixed to the access panel on the inner skin of the body is a canister connected to a rubber tube coming up from the fuel tank. It is cone shaped meta/l bodied, mounted so the inlet pipe is at the bottom. The top of the canister has 5-10mm holes around the circumference. Inside this part of the canister is what appears to be a foam disc. Topping the caniater is a rubber lid , quite stiff after all these years so haven't tried to open it as yet,yes I have see below! When I start the car and hold it I can feel it vibrating. On the russian parts list this is not shown and the access panel is square rather than the panel shape in the diagram http://www.numcat.ru...ver/p/39/49057/ I can't find it in my RAVE workshop manual, although this should cover up to 1995. I wonder if it was fitted to American models? The only thing near this I can find is NTC7567, item 904 on the russian parts list, but from this and other drawings appears to be an in-line vapour separator. Looking for a part number, I found the cover was loose enough and took it off. there is a circular foam disc about 30mm long. It is drying going on brittle. Below is a fibre disc I couldn't remve but when I start the engine there is definitely a valve and it is vibrating /rattling. If I push down lightly on the foam disc after reinserting if stops the rattling. So perhaps I need a bigger bit of foam in it, perhaps the original has shrunk. The only identifying marks on the canister is some straight lines ending in a capital A with a parallel line down the right hand part of the A Walace58
  11. Further to my fuel flap actuator saga, now resolved, I have had a tapping vibration sound from the back of the vehicle, which I put down to a pressure relief valve for the fuel tank/ system. I think I may have found the culprit, when accessing the fuel flap actuator, fixed to the access panel on the inner skin of the body is a canister connected to a rubber tube coming up from the fuel tank. It is cone shaped meta/l bodied, mounted so the inlet pipe is at the bottom. The top of the canister has 5-10mm holes around the circumference. Inside this part of the canister is what appears to be a foam disc. Topping the caniater is a rubber lid , quite stiff after all these years so haven't tried to open it as yet,yes I have see below! When I start the car and hold it I can feel it vibrating. On the russian parts list this is not shown and the access panel is square rather than the panel shape in the diagram http://www.numcat.ru/landrover/p/39/49057/ I can't find it in my RAVE workshop manual, although this should cover up to 1995. I wonder if it was fitted to American models? The only thing near this I can find is NTC7567, item 904 on the russian parts list, but from this and other drawings appears to be an in-line vapour separator. Looking for a part number, I found the cover was loose enough and took it off. there is a circular foam disc about 30mm long. It is drying going on brittle. Below is a fibre disc I couldn't remve but when I start the engine there is definitely a valve and it is vibrating /rattling. If I push down lightly on the foam disc after reinserting if stops the rattling. So perhaps I need a bigger bit of foam in it, perhaps the original has shrunk. The only identifying marks on the canister is some straight lines ending in a capital A with a parallel line down the right hand part of the A Walace58
  12. Hi. I need to change my ABS master cylinder because it is leaking a bit. Currently I just have a normal ABS modulator block. I have 2 second hand units sat on the shelf waiting to be put in. The first is a unit with just ABS the same as I already have. The second is one with the traction control module. My car is a 1993 vehicle so it already has the correct ECU and the wiring in place. So I am wondering, has anyone done this upgrade before, and can anyone forsee any problems? I am also favouring this replacement unit as the ends of the pipes were sealed when it was removed from the donor unlike the plain ABS one. Could anyone also help with pictures of a traction control unit in situ, and where the pipes go? And finally where abouts the valve goes on the inner wing that would otherwise be ontop of the modulator block? Thanks.
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