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Found 21 results

  1. This video could be a leak of the 2021 RR preview
  2. So my V8, (with carbies and distributor), has been running strangely, (even for something with carbies and distributor), and during the usual swearing methodical investigations I've discovered that the engine will just about stall if I cover the pipe at the bottom of the charcoal canister in the engine bay. The strange running problem has been apparently something to do with too much air getting in, giving me a lean mixture, according to my AFR gauge, when on town roads and when slowing down, so I've been going through the whole air intake system. Oddly enough if I clamp the hose going from this canister to the back of the engine block, nothing happens. It's only a recent problem, so I wonder if the charcoal has disintegrated, allowing air through and into the engine. Pretty much the entire engine is standard, so it's been a battle to work out what original type part has been causing this. I seem to have a dim memory of this canister being disconnected when I got the car, so I guess the next stop is to convert back to the crankcase venting these had originally.
  3. I have a 2007 Range Rover (V8 Diesel, auto) and have had a strange issue recently and wondering if anybody with a similar age vehicle could help, say 2005-2008 date range ? The main set of keys for the RR got put in the washing machine and went through a full wash cycle, strangely this stopped them working ! The second key would unlock the vehicle and start it with the key but the remote wouldn't work. The "washed" key would open the doors but wouldn't unlock the ignition 9eventually that did start working again). We tried charging the second key while using it to drive around but no matter what we tried the remote wouldn't sync to the vehicle so we figured the battery must be dead after sitting in a drawer for a few years. We ordered a new key from LR using the VIN and our local independent added the key code to the RR using his test book BUT, the new remote wouldn't sync to the vehicle either. We tried driving for an hour with the new key in case it was supplied with a flat battery but, nothing doing. Much scratching of heads and calls to various experts and nobody could come up with a solution or figure out why a brand new key would refuse to sync. We had, by this time 3 keys that would operate the vehicle: #1 Originally worked fine but since going through the washing machine the remote stopped working although would now unlock the ignition after a couple of weeks to dry out. #2 The original second key, suspected flat battery after being unused for so long, wouldn't charge (or at least sync to the vehicle) #3 Brand new from LR wouldn't sync with the vehicle As there is no operation LED on the remote, I built a 433MHz receiver to test the fobs to see if they were transmitting, of the 3 only the brand new one was sending anything. I bought new batteries (and new cases) for the other 2 keys to see if I could resurrect them. Having replaced the battery in #2 key I put it on the test rig and.. nothing. This was odd as it used to work and hadn't been "washed" so should have worked with a new battery (old one only measured 2v and it's a 3v battery). Then I noticed a blip on my oscilloscope every time I pressed a button... as if there was some noise or cross talk from another channel. Which got me thinking and I double checked the markings on the original key fob cases and a photo I'd taken of the receiver in the vehicle and, lo and behold, 315MHz printed on them all except the new one from LR. Took the vehicle for a spin to charge up the battery in #2 and it sync'd first time but now I need a second, working, key ideally. LR insist my vehicle is 433MHz despite the fact that the date stamp on the receiver is 2007 (so presumably original) and both the original key fobs are genuine LR cases. #1 key is still not working even with a new battery so it's trip through the washing machine may prove to be fatal. So, could anyone with a similar age UK spec vehicle have a look at their key fobs (the writing behind the key blade when it pops out) and tell me what frequency it says and what year ? I'm trying to find out if older UK vehicles used 315 and mine was a "changeover" vehicle or if mine was built for export but then sold in the UK. It was definitely sold in the UK in 2007 so wasn't a Japanese import or anything as I have FSH and original sales documentation for it. The VIN must be correct because the key blade LR supplied works in all the locks.
  4. Hello, I have recently found a an early LHD Suffix B Range Rover which I intend to buy and restore. I have been checking it's VIN and and engine number to make sure that it's from that period but they are puzzling me. 1) VIN - 35802759B I have checked on range-rover-classic.com and it says that LHD Suffix B cars that were exported have VINs starting from 358-03228 to -05837. Why does mine start at 358-02? I checked the Suffix A numbers and they begin from 358-00746 to -03227. Could it be a Suffix A? 2) Engine Number - 35509970B w/ 8.5:1CR I'v been searching the engine number directories online and the only engine that I can find with a 8.5:1 CR was used on Rover P6 3500 autos, however the engine number suggests that it is from a Range Rover. Was a distinction made between those blocks designated for the P6 and those for the Range Rover at that time or could it have been that Range Rover blocks were fitted as standard into the P6? Anyone have any thoughts? I just want to make sure that numbers match before I make the purchase. Thanks! Manolis
  5. Hi Guys, I'm very confused and some advice. This is the first time i m trying to buy a SUV of any kind. The budget i have i can only afford "2014 Evoque" or "2010 3.6 V8 TDI Range Rover". I'm not sure which one I should go with. I really like the range rover specially the interior. I never drive any one of them so i can't comment which one is better. Sorry for my ignorance. I don't know much about 4x4s. Thanks,
  6. Hi, We have retrofitted a 300Tdi engine with EDC and auto gearbox coming out of a ´96 Disco into a Range Rover 300Tdi manual, without EDC. We are looking to merge the two ECU´s together. Can anyone help pls?
  7. I have a 1990 v8 3.9 efi. All was fine until I lost cylinder 4 and 6. I took it to a mechanic and the top gasket was blown. Apparently it was due to irregular firing from the distributor. I've had the engine redone and have recently found a new distributor. The problem is that it now does not fire at all. the distributor that was originally in the motor had an amplifier that plugged directly onto the distributor and the new distributor has two wires coming out to a plug that has another two wires coming out. We have plugged the amplifier on to the system, but there is no fire at all. the new dissy is a 35dm8. I don't know what we are missing. for some reason there is no spark from the coil.
  8. I can't find anything out there about this. I would have thought someone had done it by now. I've just had an old radiator rodded out in a very expensive manner and it hasn't turned out as well as I'd like. Aluminium rads aren't an option due to the way they fall to bits on corrugations. So, pre-'86 Range Rovers use one type of radiator like this: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-NRC4448P, and later ones use another like this: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-ESR3688. Here in Oz, cores for the early type are now non-existent, while there are plenty of later radiators around, brand new. In my '83, it looks like you could put a later one in by using smaller batteries, (I've done that anyway - Odyssey batteries), changing the top mounting brackets to the later type, and drilling the chassis crossmember to take the bottom locating pins. And maybe use the later hoses as well. Has anyone actually done this?
  9. I have been researching brake upgrades as my car will have 300+ bhp I've narrowed down a couple of options ie 6 pot calipers from Tarox and AP which offer defender systems will these fit without issues? Any alternate suggestions?
  10. Hi, this may sound odd, but I'm after a good quality hi-res image of the side of a 4 door Range Rover Classic or Disco 1 or 2 (ideally a Vogue LSE) bare stripped shell, side on, either side is OK. I'm photoshopping an image for a mate, this is my start point... Image from http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18313203 I'm trying to create the bodyshell that would go with this image (also one of my 'shops, based on something from eBay)...
  11. Good Morning I have recently had the engine out to clean it up and rebuild it. Its a 3.5 V8 in a range rover classic. I have put the engine back in the car and I'm sure I have connected everything back up as I took it apart. However when I turn the ignition on I don't seem to have any power to the dash or anywhere. Is it correct that the positive lead runs from the battery connected to the inner wing then straight to the starter motor. I have connected an earth from starter to chassis and the main cable from alternator also to the starter. There is a small silver box attached to the inner wing which has a couple of cables to plug into somewhere but I'm not sure where. I will post some pictures up if i can figure how to do it. Is there anything i could have missed? I have checked cleaned and re-secured all the earths. An y help would be great. Many Thanks
  12. Just starting a resto on a two door but I intend to use every day. I hate the front seats as I'm 6'4 also the build is going to completely modernised, I have a list of faults sorry character I need to improve or refine. So seats is the first I thought about putting the later ones in however they don't have (unless I can find csk ones) tilt function. Does anyone have any suggestions of alternatives that are comfortable and in keeping but comfortably modern?
  13. Hi everyone, I was trying to measure the dog nit size but the pulley and mud guard make it impossible for the caliber to reach. Anyone know what size it is?
  14. I was just wondering if a front axle from a 1983 110" would go into a 1983 Range Rover. I happen to have both of these here, but the 110 is terminally rusty and the Rangie is our everyday 4WD. So I wouldn't mind the 110 axle with bigger brakes and more easily upgraded, (i.e., Ashcroft), CVs and stub axles and so on. I know that the brakes would need a little change in the pipework since it would be going from two lines to each caliper to one line each, the springs will fit, the steering should fit, diff is the same, (though I'll be putting in a Truetrac as in the rear), but are the radius arms the same and, a big question: is the track the same? I've got alloys on the Rangie I'm keeping so I was planning on replacing the 110 wheel studs with RYF500010 studs for alloys.
  15. Guys, Ive got a range rover swivel housing ( the bit the stub axle bolts to) that needs replacing due to a stripped thread. It has the number HRC 2057 on its steering arm, but nothing else. I've tried googling the number to identify the part. but not getting any results. Is there a way to identify it from this number? or am i just being incredibly stupid! Thanks for any help. Chris
  16. Hello, I wonder if some of you guys could help me out with a problem I have. The case is, I picked up this lovely Range Rover 4.6 HSE a couple weeks ago, and when driving it I noticed a slight but very noticable vibration when the tach closed 2500 rpm, and also all the way up to rev limit. This happens even if in Park, Neutral or driving (in any gear). I would appreciate all help i can get from you guys Greetings from Norway
  17. Hi All; this is my first post to this forum. I am trying to replace a transfer box in a 1993 Range Rover. I'm in flood ravaged Colorado and flatbeading her to the shop isn't practical. I have her on ramps and the job is half way done thanks to a great blog here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14601 This helped me figure out almost all the hard stuff. In the blog, he fixed a different year vehicle, so there were some differences. One is that on the 1993 model you only remove the center console to get to the access panel. On his, the driver seat cushion was removed. The other main difference is the clearance between the Gear Box and the Transfer Box. On mine, the case does not have anough room to slide off the main drive shaft. Here's what it looks like: Does Anyone know what I have to do to make room?
  18. I wrote an article on how to change the front brake pads on the new range rover. It is a step by step procedure for anyone who wants to tackle the job. Here is the link: http://www.jaghelp.com/2013/09/how-to-change-front-brakes-on-range.html Feedback is appreciated!
  19. Hey there! I would like to know is there a way to revert the firmware and/or software on the MK3 unit? It seems the previous owner has in a way bricked the unit, becuse the Service Mode is in basic mode (only 2 choices) and no GPS selection on the screen, even though the unit is in the back and seems to be working. I can't even identify which firmware version i have, as it doesn't show it anywhere in the Service Mode (upper right corner usually), but i read that 3-1/32 should be the best fit for MK3 unit. Does anyone have a link for this FW? Thanks for helping me out!
  20. Evening All, Quick question, I'm now getting back into the swing of the restoration of my 2 door classic after a period of laziness... Noticed something odd this evening. I'd never bothered to check my VIN number before, and in doing so it all made sense up until the character relating to engine, gearbox and drive side. My VIN states it as being a LHD model but the wheel is most definitely on the Right. On my V5 it does state that it was "registered or used abroad" or some such. It also states that it was first registered in Feb 1981 but declared as manufactured in 1981. I'm not entirely sure how this stacks up. I rang the DVLA to re-sorn it and the guy said it was marked as an imported car. But if it was manufactured in 81 and registered in feb 81 then it only leaves a period of 1 month it could have been abroad... this seems unlikely. It has all the hallmarks of an '81 such as the newer upholstery and rubber matting. Does anyone have any ideas what could have happened with it? And also is there any telltales to look for to check if it was indeed converted from LHD to RHD at some point ? Nothing looks obvious or sticks out. It's all very strange... I'd like to get to the bottom of it though as it will bug me now! Thanks,
  21. I'm just back from a 7850 Kilometer Oddesy into the red centre of Australia. I fitted and brand new set of Cooper AAT "Discoverer" Tyres before I left and the wear on them is tiotally unacceptable, I expected to get around 50,000 Kilometers out of them but the front two are worn down to just above the low limit marks, the rears while better are between 50-60% worn. All 4 have been returned to Coopers for their comments. The fronts were run at 32PSI, the Rears at 36. In sand the fronts were dropped to 18 and the rears 24. Ambient tempertatures ran from three days at over 53 Degrees Centigrade to an average of 38.
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