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Found 12 results

  1. I’m just restoring a 1983 series 3 swb. Does anyone have some pictures of how all the front and rear brake pipes are attached. Particular problems are: 1. Layout of brake pipes on front drums. I have four holes for pipe fittings, two top and two bottom 2. positioning of rear brake pipe that runs along axle thanks for any assistance Matt
  2. Hi Folks, What type of head/driver bit is required to undo the bolts holding the hinges on the rear door of a Defender? The bolts are described as "Torx" in the parts manuals yet there are only slots for 4 splines in the bolt head? All my current Torx bits have 6 splines in a star shape. It may go with a large pozi driver bit (it's not a great fit) and would rather use the correct type. Many Thanks, Simon...
  3. My rear door is driving me mad with some very heavy duty banging a rattling sounds. Every bump in the road in punctuated by a large metallic banging sound. Any ideas please?
  4. Good evening everyone, thanks for your help and advice so far. Slowly working my way down the snagging list. Next problem! Rear heated window, switch on, light appears on dash telling you it thinks it’s on, however rear window doesn’t heat up. Any ideas? FF
  5. Hello, the rear wiper blade on my 1990 110 has / is disintegrating. I went to my local Halfords however they no longer stock a replacement. Can anyone suggest somewhere else that would? I have attached a picture of the arm and blade fitting. The alternative, I guess, would be swap the wiper arm for one that will accept a 'modern' blade. Would anyone have any suggestions regarding that please? regards, Richard
  6. Hi Folks, Been wondering about some holes in rear panels of my 1996 Land Rover Defender 110 CSW. Please see images attached. Suspect that they were for lamp guards which are no longer present. Looking at other images online could they be for part number RTC8860AA? It has a rear mounted wheel as that seems to make a difference to part numbers. Wondering if folk agree and/or have that part fitted and can confirm. Rather than leaving holes in the back, thinking of getting the light guards reinstated. The part is also labelled as hinged. In what way is this part hinged? Seems like a fully fixed part unless there is something interesting with the fittings nearest to the doors? Thanks, Simon...
  7. Hi guys. I am new to owning a discovery 1 and would like to change my regular lights on the rear to led's I am changing all, brake lights, indicators etc etc but i have never really done any wiring in cars and don't want to mess it up but I need to start somewhere. I was wondering if someone could help me with the wiring of the disco, e.g what cables do what. The led's I have are just (live and neutral) any help would be greatful. I have a discovery 1 1994 es auto 7 seater. Cheers Matt
  8. Hi Folks, Defender 1997 - CSW - 300Tdi Thought I'd test out the rear wash before refitting the headlining. Looks like it is not working. The motor pump seems to be running. However, it looks like the pipework from the bottle to the rear washer is not taking fluid. Couple of questions that would help. The following link may help frame them: http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=760653&SPRACHE=EN 1. Noticed that the non-return valve located in the roof space has a moulded arrow pointer back to the washer bottle. Is this the correct direction and has this valve been fitted in the correct orientation. 2. Thought I'd take the pipe off the non return value and see whether washer fluid can be pumped out of the pipe. However, the pipe seems to be pretty well stuck fast. Is there some specific technique to remove them or do I need to get a bit more brutal. Thanks for any help, Simon...
  9. Hi Folks, Got some corrosion on one side of my Defender 1996 110 - the "triangle" side rear quarter panel behind the second row doors. Have done a number of searches but cannot see a definitive answer. Seems the panel should be easy to remove (drill rivets), source a new piece and spray up (etch primer, etc...) before the fit. However, the fit sounds a little more tricky. Riveting back in seems fair enough. However, number of searches suggest there may be some specialist spot welding required to the wheel arch? Is this true? Do not have or access to any such kit. How DIY is it to replace this panel or should I get this work done along with other work while in the garage for chassis "rust proofing"? Simon...
  10. Hi When making a 100" Defender and one wants to have the same behind the rear axle as on a 90" What kind of solutions do you use for closing the fuelfillerarea ? Cheers Morten
  11. Hi All, I read somewhere that it makes it more comfortable for the passengers if you lift the seats higher! I think they were doing this to Defender 110 that give Safari tours in Africa Has anyone done this? Can you buy a kit in the UK. Cheers, Mike
  12. Hi all, At a recent pay and play, I knackered my rear diff. Had to drive it home from the site, so it's done a few miles since being broken. I've just got round to starting to strip it down. First worry was when I remove the diff drain plug, and all that came out was 3 drops of water and a big lump of mud(yes, it definitely had oil before). Not good! I've managed to remove the long halfshaft without a problem, found the splines on it are twisted. The short halfshaft however will not come out for love nor money. I've tried yanking on it, trying twine through the holes and yanking on that, using 2 crowbars to pry it out. Have also tried passing a metal rod through the axle casing from the other side and hitting that, but it's not budging. I can get it to move out about 10mm with ease, then it stops. The only successful solution for the rear I have read on here seems to be towing it out with a car Have also tried slackening the diff nuts to allow me to get a slightly different angle on it, to no avail. I've read elsewhere that a slidehammer might do the job, but surely smashing it with a steel rod through the axle casing would have done the same?! Also read about cutting the diff pan off, but that really is a last resort as I would have to pay to get a new one welded on. Any ideas? Jack
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