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Found 12 results

  1. Hello all! Well, my gearbox broke, so a great excuse for a rebuild thread. It's in a 109 with a 3.9 on carbs, has been fine if a little noisy (they're notorious for this as they use ball bearings rather than tapered roller) but finally gave up as I was towing a newly bought Sankey back from Tewkesbury. To cut a long story short, I as bumbling along on the A417 when I heard a little "ping" noise. You know, that kind that really make you nervous and you spend a minute wondering if it's just a stone flung from the tyre? Then another and the a nasty, heavy clattering noise from the gearbox. I was in fourth at the time, and still driving fine despite the noise. Pulled over, transfer in neutral, run through the gears. I thought the layshaft rear bearing might have collapsed, but it turns out fifth has popped off its retention ring and was flapping about in the breeze. Pics of that will follow when do my actual post-mortem of that box - I ended up rebuilding my spare. The spare is interesting. On first inspection, it looked great inside - clean as a whistle. But the input shaft had a little more play than I'd have liked, so I took the front housing off to find this: The cage has busted clean through the spot welds and come apart. Not ideal, so apart it came. I have a video of this, which will need some editing before it goes up as it's quite long! In order to disassemble the solid case, you have to make up some puller tools. Main and input shaft bearings are press fit into both the housings and onto the shaft, and being ball bearings you can't separate the inner and outer track like a taper roller. So a few bits of box section and a little machining later: I also made up the tool required to press the rear bearing along with the case onto the output shaft. The official tool is vaguely tube shaped and supposed to engage on the rear face of the inner bearing track, picking up on an internal thread in the end of the output shaft. I couldn't find a bolt to match, and didn't like the sound of this anyway, so I went a slightly different way: The collet picks up on the radius of the output splines and gets retained by the outside taper into a collar, just like valve spring collets. No chance of it slipping off or stripping threads here! You'll see the finished article in action later. After some cleaning measuring and faffing about I won't bore you with (the manual covers this far better than I can), it's time to reassemble. I did have some remedial work to do on the iron front housing that contains the oil pump and takes the thrust load of both front bearings. As you can see, there's a few thou of fretting there, and it's not even. It's too shallow to maching, so the best solution is to rake out the surface plate and get lapping: A half hour later: Much better. Now it can be assembled with new seals, pump, oil feed ring and O-ring: Next up is pressing the bearings into the front plate and main case. No pics as it's pretty banal. I do with I'd taken some photos of the bearings from Ashcroft, though. They've used different style -and longer lasting - bearings that are the right width and ID, but too small on the OD so they're pressed into a machined collar. Lovely work and fitted tighter than the proverbial. Input shaft goes in, baulk rings and bearing on: Preassembled mainshaft goes on, layshaft and gasket get put in place: The front layshaft bearing is cylindrical roller bearing, the outer of which gets pressed in sitting 5mm proud of its final position to make fitting easier. Reverse gear gets fitted, but retained temporarily by a screwdriver This allows it to be wiggled around the layshaft as the main case is fitted. Spot the deliberate mistake; I fitted it backwards and realised just after I took the pic: Main case goes on. There are supposed to be guide pins, but these would have interfered with my stand: Now the home made special tool goes on: And the whole lot gets pressed together by winding the two nuts up against the plate: The tool worked like a charm. The gearbox is now taken off the stand and the layshaft front bearing gets tapped home, then the front housing goes on with a fresh gasket: Torque to spec and we're done. You can see the front bearing plate is temporarily retained with a couple of bolts and spacers: Now work starts on fifth gear. Both my boxes has sheared the pin in the synchro hub that drives the plate slipper pad retaining plate and output seal collar. Dave Ashcroft was kind enougb to supply an updated part with a 5mm pin, rather thin the 3mm, but I couldn't hunt down or didn't want to pay for the plate, pin or collar to match.... The plate was worn from spinning against the hardened hub and collar due to the sheared pin, so this was scrap. The fit on the shaft was also a frankfurter down an alleyway - not acceptable. A 3mm bit of plate got turned up, outside first: Then inside: And fits snugly: Now for the pin hole. I could have measured, but it was simpler to use the pin as a punch. Anneal, the grind a piece of tool steel with a point, fit to hub, give plate a tap against it to leave a punch mark: Check and drill: Lovely. Grind the pin flat to remove the point and massage the keyway in the collar to suit: The angle grinder is too cumbersome for this operation, so I made an arbor for an old slitting disk to fit into the die grinder. A much more delicate tool: Polish up the seal collar on the lathe: And it all fits together beautifully: Because the plate is slightly thicker, a new "selective washer" needs to be made to give the right clearance against the retaining clip. This is the clip the had let go and caused my breakdown, so worth getting it cock on: At the time of writing, I'm still waiting for a new clip. These should, under now account, be re-used. Having got all that ready, attention turns to the layshaft. As you can see, a spacer is used to retain it in lieu or fifth. This allows the bearing retainer plate to be fitted. Two problems here: Firstly, it's fretted like the front housing. Second, it doesn't match the curve of the smaller main bearing OD.... It's not special steel, so I decided to build up with weld; both to eliminate the wear, and to add some extra to engage fully with the bearing outer track: Fitted, spacer removed, fifth fitted, new stake nut torqued to 160 lb ft. I quick gripped the box to the bench to do this: Staked with a round punch: The fifth selector assembly retains the top of the bearing too, and this had the same issues as the other plate: Spot the *cough* deliberate *cough* mistake: I fitted the selector ring the wrong way round. Easily rectified: As the 1st/2nd selector fork is steel, and the collar lands are quite skinny, it had suffered from wear. I built up with some silicone bronze and linished back until it was flush with the steel again. I didn't take enough pics In go the selector forks, interlocks, rods and retaining roll pins. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves: The rest is just a case of bolting covers on, which was a bit too banal for taking pictures! Oh, apart from getting the reverse gate spring back on: I hope it's interesting, anyway. I'll make the special tools are available for rent in return for a donation to the forum fund. It's really not too bad a job, and I actually really enjoyed it. For reference, a 109 with a sankey fits on large recovery lorry. RAC were really good about it - no problem at all. /Ian
  2. Hi all, Just bought a set of used Ashcroft ATB's. Low mileage but probably used intensily: seller had a Disco Td5 on extreme off road tyres and upgraded to air lockers. The bearings sound a bit grainy and I found some dirt in the splines. Obviously it has seen a bit more than just oil, contrary to what the seller told me. Also found some cracks in what looks like a shim (photo attached). I presume that a dirty halfshaft has been installed - one can also see some rust coloured dirt in the beginning of the splines, in the out-of-focus area. So I think a good clean is in order. According to a post on the South African forum, the ATB's are quite easy to open and clean: Does anyone have to add something to that? Greetings, Joris
  3. Hi All, Currently rebuilding a disco td5 LT230T with an Ashcrofts Master Rebuild Kit. I'm at the stage of putting things back together following the manual. I've constructed the centre diff (all the same parts apart from the copper dome washers and the fibre thrust washers. As soon as I start to tighten the bolts up to clamp the housing together, I'm no longer able to freely turn the gears inside using the front output shaft. It requires a bit of force. The manual suggests that if it's too loose I need to use thicker washers. It doesn't suggest what to do if it's too stiff. Having measured the thrust washers the old ones were 1.35mm where as the new ones at 1.05mm. If i pop the old ones back in everything turns smooth. Should I get replacement washers at 1.35mm or should 1.05mm be right? Thanks Thomas
  4. I currently have a petrol 2000 Discovery 2 in Los Angeles, California. It has 110,000 miles and has been a hard worker these past 17 years! Running exceptionally all these years! Without having any expert knowledge, I have managed to maintain with standard services as recommended by Atlanta British (coolant hoses, 02 sensors, etc etc.) which has saved me thousands over taking it to a shop. The head gaskets have never been replaced and the vehicle has run great this entire time. Just recently I am noticing a loss of oil and coolant without any obvious external leaking. A car of this age is known to start needing many things replaced. The cost of the head gaskets is just one part, as while you have it taken apart it is recommended to replace hoses, gaskets, and a myriad of other things— not to mention the potential of engine failure even after this work has been completed. Having a vehicle for this long has really made it part of the family and I can't really face the reality of getting rid of it. I really really want to keep this Disco, but I am afraid I can't afford doing the head gaskets if it means I could still very likely have very expensive problems with the engine in the coming months / years. Most people in the forums recommend a complete rebuild if you do not want any surprises down the road. Robinson Service Blog Estimates a proper rebuild to be $12,000 http://robisonservice.blogspot.com/2013/10/should-you-rebuild-or-replace-your-land.html My current budget maximum is not much, only $4,000— which is making me think I just keep driving it topping off oil/coolant until the bitter end. I would love any thoughts and recommendations! Thanks
  5. OK, the sixwheeler has come closer to getting on the road again. The paperworks has gone through, and it's got it's licenceplates. Now It's legal to use on the roads again. Now it's ready for it's next step Obviously, it's not going to be used as a recovery vehicle, so the owner is currently thinking of doing a bit of modification. But he is not sure if he wants to do the modifications himself, so he is looking for some garage to do the work for him. Here is a list of things he want to be done: Replace the V8 with a TD5, with new gearbox, ECU, wiring and everything that is needed. Change from RHD to LHD New suspension with 2" lift. Change the body from van into pickup, DCPU roof and rear wall, long pickup tube. full respray. There is not that many garages here that are capable of doing this work, so he is looking abroad. Does anyone have some suggestions on garages in UK that could do this ?
  6. So my Santana SIIA rebuild moved on with dismantling of the engine. The bore wasn't worn too bad but still had enough ridge to cause me a problem when trying to get the fourth piston out. ( the rings got stuck behind the ridge and couldn't get past it so I had to sandpaper it a bit to make it pass) Also the bore was original size. (90,47mm) The crack running alongside the cylinder block wich I mentioned in my other post was tested once again, connected to tap water via hose. The water should be around 4 bar (56psi) pressure, and it still didn't leak. However I wanted to be sure, and decided to swap the block. I had 2.25 diesel engine laying in the corner of my garage for years and after some inspection, it turns out that it has been bored to 0.020 so now it's around 91 mm bore, and also it has no ridge at all, almost as good as new Since the blocks on 2.25 petrol and diesel are the same I decided to complicate my engine rebuild a bit more and swap all the petrol components to this diesel block So I started the disassembling. Besides one nut on the crankshaft journal (prob overtightened) it wasn't too hard of a job since the pistons and conrods were already out and most of the other nuts were tightened by hand. Here it is, naked block with just main bearings in it I did the same thing with my petrol engine the next day, having bit of a problem with getting tappet assembly out, the tappet guide was kinda stuck inside so I tapped with hammer gently and wasted alot of WD-40 , also payed a bit more attention when removing the camshaft, but it still wasn't more than 3 hours of work... Here are both engines. The one further away, on the floor is diesel block and elevated one, closer is petrol. Diesel crankshaft. I wrapped it in rags to prevent any damage, you can never be too sure, and well, who knows I might need a Diesel crankshaft some time soon And this is Petrol crankshaft. They appear to be the same although apparently they are not. The big "P" stamped on it stands for Petrol? Okay so here is my problem. This is the main bearing wich I wound in the Diesel block, on the diesel crankshaft: As you can see, It says 010 U/S. I suppose that stands for 0.010" undersize. But the thing is my manual says that only petrol engines have undersizes, so what is this bearing doing in here? And this is the main bearing shell from the petrol engine: It says STD meaning standard. So is this okay, or is every petrol engine supposed to have undersize? Wich bearing should I order when I start putting this back together (with the petrol crankshaft obviously) STD, 010 U/S or something else? How can I accurately measure wear without some special tool? Also, I do need to put main bearing cap from the petrol engine onto it, right? What about the tappet assemblies? obviously I will put the slider and the pushrods from petrol back in but what about tappet guide? Petrol or Diesel? Oh, and is this flat part on the camshaft normal? it doesn't seem to be worn ,more like it's machined
  7. I would like to use this thread to get some advice and learn something from people with more experience than me,and to get other people's opinion on some things in order to successfully finish this project. My goal is not to make this car something clean,nice and perfect, nor something that I would't be comfortable loading and driving trough mud, rock and bushes. Such ground off restauration would require resources wich I don't currently posses (both money and time). But who knows, one day, maybe... But first, allow me to introduce you to current state of things... In March 2005 my dad bought his second Land Rover, a 1970 Santana Series IIA 109" wich was fitted with Mercedes 300D engine. Because of improper engine poistioning, the engine was overheating and eventually lost compression. Some time before breaking down, my dad's first Land Rover ('68 SIIA 109") had problems with differentials wich caused halfshafts to be broken. Since buying new(spare) rear axle turned out to be almost as expensive as buying a whole car, he bought yet another, rusty, beaten up SIIA for use of it's axle and other spare parts. This Landy had original 2.25 petrol 3 main bearing engine wich was running. After the Merc broke down in January 2011, the lack of spare time, and lack of need for second Land Rover ('68 still working) led to the car sitting for more than 5 years. I felt wrong that the car, wich was otherwise (at the time) in decent condition (way better than the '68 Landy), was rotting in our backyard,when it obviousley could be fixed. I talked to my dad and and we concluded that the best option was to jam the 2.25 petrol in instead of fixing the Mercedes engine and setting it up properly. But many things got in the way and the work was delayed for another 2+ years. May 2015 17th of January 2016, the work has finally started. We pulled out the gearbox from the spare-part Land Rover, later the engine too.Next weekend the Mercedes engine from Santana was also out, the gearbox following. The Mercedes engine was put aside, and the 2.25 brought into the garage, and cleaned, some small bits on the car also sanded and painted, but overall the progress was very slow beacuse I was home only at weekends, and even then I couldn't put too much time into it, and the weather wasn't very helpful either. 300D out In the garage, the 2.25's compression was tested. All cylinders are 10 bars or more accept the fourth wich is 9 bars. After I have sanded the engine I came across a nasty 20 cm crack running on the right side of the engine block. We decided to test the crack by connecting the engine to the 4 bar water source. It did not leak. That means it won't later on... Right? The water pressure in the cooling system should be less than 4 bars? Fingers crossed and moving on as if nothing happened. This testing showed no leaking whatsoever... Recently, while cleaning the gearbox I noticed that the gearbox that I wanted to use was the "E" prefix gearbox, wich was earlier and weaker compared to the "D" suffix. Fortunately the other gearbox wich was connected to Mercedes engine indeed was "D" suffix but it had Mercedes bellhousing on, so I will need to put the one from "E" gearbox on this one. I have removed it and am now waiting to get the gaskets to connect it to the "D" gearbox. Hopefully this will finish my gearbox work so I can start disassembling the engine looking clean Oh, and here is the link where you can find the full album of the build so far. Almost every photo has comment below in wich you can find more info. https://goo.gl/photos/U5KUuNNgrd3k4MnA6 Cheers!
  8. Right, thought I'd chuck my rebuild on here As some of you may know I've got a 1976 series 3 diesel which I got off my granddad. At long last now comes the time when we can actually start work on it. I'll post the before pics on here (I know they're on another thread but this'll keep it consistent...I hope). This will hopefully turn out to be my first car and our aim is to rebuild it so its sort of like a bespoke one the factory may have made for a paying customer (e.g. better interior and the like). Its got a 2/5 N/A diesel fitted which I'll keep and we're going to fit power steering to it. If this looks familiar to some, it is on another forum but I know quite a few on here don't like that forum so thought I'd stick it on here as well, it may help some people doing the same thing or it may not but its very pic heavy and everyone likes pictures I have made quite a bit of progress, this is just whats been done so far And after we started work on it Looks different doesn't it? Next job was to winch the series into our garage using my dads 110 (the starter motor's knackered on my engine). Next job we did was remove the bonnet and stack it up against the wall. Front and rear lights were removed then (headlights and bowls will need replacing). The next job was removing the driver side door and then starting to undo the wing. Me (on the left) and my brother taking off the light surrounds Close up of the headlight connectors (they just pull off) Taking off the front apron The "good book" on the wing Just some of the "wiring" on the vehicle both wings are off. Here's some more pics to bore you all with. Bulkhead looks good, only a small patch of welding on the corner by the drivers side and a new footwell is needed. Cheers Sam
  9. Good Morning I have recently had the engine out to clean it up and rebuild it. Its a 3.5 V8 in a range rover classic. I have put the engine back in the car and I'm sure I have connected everything back up as I took it apart. However when I turn the ignition on I don't seem to have any power to the dash or anywhere. Is it correct that the positive lead runs from the battery connected to the inner wing then straight to the starter motor. I have connected an earth from starter to chassis and the main cable from alternator also to the starter. There is a small silver box attached to the inner wing which has a couple of cables to plug into somewhere but I'm not sure where. I will post some pictures up if i can figure how to do it. Is there anything i could have missed? I have checked cleaned and re-secured all the earths. An y help would be great. Many Thanks
  10. my 1989 110 V8 Truck cab was carted away yesterday to start the process of new Chassis, Maybe new Bulkhead, new Gearbox and clutch - the removal promoted my daughters to ask whether there was anything I wanted for Christmas towards the rebuild?? I was so surprised my mind was blank (again) Any Ideas? items below £100 and stocking fillers (below £10) Cheers
  11. Hi guys, rebuilt my engine after a heavy smoking problem, smoking now gone and running as usual. Unfortunately, the temp gauge climbs way too fast and gets to the top of the gauge within only two or three miles of flat, straight fen road driving. It's really strange, I've filled the radiator up and it shows the normal level in the header tank and the thermostat is new and genuine (the second thermostat since the rebuild) I first tried taking the thermostat out and it stayed at quarter temp on the gauge while driving a few miles but once it was back in it climbed way too fast again. No steam or anything coming from the bonnet. Whole engine was stripped and rebuilt, head gasket was done properly and head torqued correctly. Oil level holding normal, water level doesn't really move even after gauge shows overheating. Fan belts are new and it's on a viscous fan at the moment. Water pump is a year old. Radiator has no visible damage and it's not done any of this overheating before. What's up with it??
  12. Hi there, I'm new to these forums however not new to auto work. I've come into a few issues recently after starting a new engineering job. The boss has a few personal projects lying around that he can't attend regularly as he's quite busy so I've been given the task of rebuilding his 98' LR Defender 130. It wouldn't be so hard except the muppet he had disassemble it just chucked every bolt into a big basin and all the weather seals, lock mechanisms, interior door cards and anything else thats part of the doors, bonnet or roof into a giant box. Now I usually wouldn't come and ask for help, but I'm completely stuck. I've started to reassemble the doors, I've got as far as reattaching the sheet steel with the interior door handle back to the door frames, (which the frames have been recently powder coated, so I've got the tap and die set out cause all the threads are now gummy coated too), and the window regulators (manual) back in. But short of all this, I'm not even sure if I'm on the right track. I've tried looking over some manuals, but I was wondering if someone whose done this before could brief me on the overall process and in what order. I can upload photos if it would help. The manuals only really detail individual steps as if I had removed the lock and wanted to put it back, but not so much about an entirely exploded door, that needs complete reassembly. As I said before this wouldn't be that bad a task if the guy who disassembled it all had taken necessary precautions labelling etc, but I can't complain as this is what the new job entails but any help or guidance will be much appreciated. If anyone knows good sources for this kind of information and parts lists, that would be great. My boss got a hell of alot of the rust out after the guy he employed disassembled everything, but I still need to get some bolts and stuff and probably a few body parts. Cheers
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