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Found 6 results

  1. Having difficulty opening the top tailgate on a 1992 RRC (JA VIN) as the latches appear to have seized / rusted as the release button moves but doesn't press in very far. Do the actuating rods to either side of the lock mechanism push / pull or do they rotate around their axis to operate the latches? Trying not to damage the frame as it is aluminium, so trying to work out what I can do from inside the boot. Thanks
  2. Hi All, I have converted my rear axle to front brake callipers on my challenge Range Rover Classic. Lets just say it wasn't my greatest move although the brakes have plenty of power now. The trouble is now to get full braking you have to punch the brake pedal twice in quick succession, I have bleed the whole system up and once you have pumped the pedal twice the pedal remains firm and solid with the brakes locked (aka I don't appear to have a leak on the system or believe I have any air in the pipes). I have come to the conclusion that the master cylinder is too small to meet the extra fluid requirements of having 4 pot callipers right the way around? Does anyone know of any larger master cylinders that will fit the existing servo/pedal? Or alternatively I have heard some old lorries (pre air) had a pressure booster in the brake lines but haven't had much success researching these? Cheers, Readie
  3. Need 'em badly but can't find them, or a name for them? Arrowed below George
  4. My wonderful old Disco (Series 1, built in 1998) has a throttle cable that is, by it's length ( a huge "S") designed by LR to satisfy the bean counters in that it will suit both Left hand and Right Hand Drive vehicles. It makes accountants happy to stock one part instead of two, and accountants, used car salesmen and highway patrol police are all of the same ilk, and the controls on this site forbid me from a personal description of what I believe their parentage to be, suffice to say that they have little merit in my 68 years of experience. My question therefore is, is there a shorter throtte cable available ???? And if so please what is the part number? Not that the existing one is a problem but it will, like most cables, need replacement sooner than later and I would really like one that is shorter and more "direct"
  5. I was just wondering if a front axle from a 1983 110" would go into a 1983 Range Rover. I happen to have both of these here, but the 110 is terminally rusty and the Rangie is our everyday 4WD. So I wouldn't mind the 110 axle with bigger brakes and more easily upgraded, (i.e., Ashcroft), CVs and stub axles and so on. I know that the brakes would need a little change in the pipework since it would be going from two lines to each caliper to one line each, the springs will fit, the steering should fit, diff is the same, (though I'll be putting in a Truetrac as in the rear), but are the radius arms the same and, a big question: is the track the same? I've got alloys on the Rangie I'm keeping so I was planning on replacing the 110 wheel studs with RYF500010 studs for alloys.
  6. Hi, The Range Rover just passed the MOT, except a remark for high CO and HC. The CO was 3.7% at idle! Quite high, as its a 1990 V8 with cats (should be under 0.5%). My first thoughts was a defect lambdasensor or wrong fuelprogramme. I have the Rovergauge software, but strangely everythings seems to be OK, lambda readings swing +/- 15 % short term, and +/- 5% long term. Readings from TPS and MAF seems to be OK too. MAF CO-setting (blue-red wire, ignition on, motor not running) is 1.7 Volts, and on the web i´ve found different opinions on this topic, some says that this value is omitted when running the cat-programme, other that different values has to be set for different chips, and that it will change the CO at idling....any opinions to this? So whats wrong then ? I defect cat is the only obvious thing? Oh yes, there´s another subject - I changed the exhaust from cats and downstream a half year ago, cheap parts from paddox, but the first muffler is sadly falling apart inside by now (rattle and very resonant at high speeds). Could a restriction in this cause the problem? The chaps at the MOT treats my car as it was a non-cat, so I can probably get it through next time by changing the tune resistor to Non-cat or Non-cat Australia (the most "lean" programme?), but I would rather find the problem... Regards Bo
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