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I have finally managed to get my S3 88 1971 on the road but have struggled with the brakes. I have done quite a few restorations of classic motors but this is the first landy. I chose the single circuit and kept 10" all round (no servo). Renewed all brake tube with kunifer and chose Lockheed delphi slave cylinders as they are steel. Replaced the rear 3-way union with 'Ford' method (i.e. dispensed with the flexi hose with flat end and used a front one with both pointed ends, then have two pipes into o/s side slave cylinder, and then one going across to the n/s with the bleed nipple). The 3 way union relies on a 'butt joint' rather than a more secure full OP1 and OP2 flare joint. I just think it is better as one then has steel to steel joint and not steel into brass. I checked the master cylinder and connections by putting a female connector on each flexi with a bleed nipple - bled the system and got a hard pedal. Step worth taking I feel to be absolutely sure of each joint before connecting the slave cylinders. Connected up the slave cylinders and put on the new shoes etc. Bled the system again obviously and hard pedal with about 3/4" movement before hard... about right I expect but maybe reduced with adjusting the snail cams. Driving up the driveway and applying brakes results in pedal sink. Perhaps a leak in slave cylinders - drums off again but no. So what could possibly be the problem? It seems as if the shoes are bending but I can't believe that. I have read that there can be drum warping but when I rotated the drums they seemed fine. The front shoes are Allmakes and the rear Britpart. The Britpart ones did seem to bind at first but I filed the leading edge by about an inch - and that was then fine. I have heard that filing the leading edge helps bed the shoes in. This design seems odd to me in the sense that wear is not even across the length of the shoe. The S2 had an adjuster at one end of the shoes which when taken up moves both outwards whereas with the 10" the snail cam only moves one outwards. This does not seem a good design on the S3 - whereas the S2 was better with even wear and then replaced with a fixed location for one end of the shoes and then two snail cam adjusters on the early Defender. Would be grateful for any suggestions. I am thinking the only thing to do is to put the old shoes on which were about 1/2 worn down and see what the result is. I don't think I filed the front shoes so that is something I'll do tomorrow but I am perplexed with this 'sink'.