Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'starting'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • The Lounge
    • International Forum
    • Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
    • Getting out and about
    • Competing in Land Rovers
    • Tools and Fabrication
    • The Video Shack
  • Tech Archive
    • Land Rover Technical Archive
    • Requests for Part Numbers
  • Vehicles
    • Series Forum
    • Defender Forum
    • Freelander Forum
    • Discovery Forum
    • Range Rover Forum
    • Military Forum
    • Evoque Forum

Calendars

There are no results to display.

Blogs

  • LR90's Blog
  • geoffbeaumont's Blog
  • My 1991 RRC 4.0 V8
  • Doublecab Happenings

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 13 results

  1. The 300tdi runs fine in my 90. 137k miles. Sometimes starting isn't so good. Turn key and it fires then dies. Then follows plenty cranking 10 secs at a time for three or four times. Then a few fire and die cycles then a lumpy start and settles fine. Rarely does it second start of the day and sometimes goes a week starting first turn. Thinking it may be a fuel problem. Perhaps a leak letting air in and draining pipes down to tank. Can't see any fuel leaks. Any suggestions as to where to start looking? Thanks
  2. Hi, My 200 tdi has suddenly become hard to start if it hasn't run for a while. If it has just run it fires up straight away. When starting it will crank over and over and over then catch and stop then catch again, run very lumpily then start running normally with a blip of the throttle. There is always white smoke on start up which clears as it heats up. Once running it is fine, there is plenty of power and I can't detect any issues. No hunting, surging etc etc. My plugs are only a few years old but I haven't taken them out to test on the bench. I'm getting 10v at each one My battery is at 12.5v Earth strap is fine (tested with jump cable from battery negative to chassis and also engine) Starter isn't sluggish and spins at normal speed New fuel filter fitted New leak off pipes between injectors fitted (but not pipe back to FIP) FIP was replaced in 2011 Injectors have had no love since I bought the car (100K +) so that is on the list to do. Today I took out the fuel filter housing bleed screw and unplugged the FIP stop solenoid wire and cranked the engine over while watching it on a video camera. There was no fuel coming out of the bleed hole despite plenty of cranking. I then replaced the solenoid wire and tried again and there was instantly a gush of fuel from the bleed hole. Now. I'm not the brightest sandwich in the tool box but I'm pretty sure the lift pump is manual so I think the FIP solenoid wire has no bearing on the lift pump and this was a coincidence. Which means that fuel is possibly leaking back from the filter back to the tank and I had to crank it a lot to prime the line again. Based on the symptoms and bits and bobs I've played with. What tests should I try and what should I be looking at next? Many thanks.
  3. My 2008 Puma will not start it was working fine and then did not start. checked the battery and it was not good so changed it ( this battery was checked snd it is ok), and the car will not start. The lights go on, the dash too, but it will not crank, and the solenoid does not make any noise. I think it is inmobilized but don’t know how to check if it is that, or how to get it out of that stage, or what else it could be ?( the ignition lock?) Appreciate your help
  4. Yesterday all was well and this morning 1998 landy 90 300tdi will not start and the solenoid on the starter motor just clicks. Earth cable and power to starter motor seem OK but on checking all fuses the 10A fuse inside the cab had blown. Replaced but now even with the key out of the ignition the warning lights remain lit (oil, battery, handbrake) and the starter motor still just clicks. Could this be a faulty ignition barrel causing both problems and how can I check if this is the case. Fortunately I have a battery isolator so am not draining the battery which is only a few months old and showing green for OK. Any help or ideas greatly appreciated
  5. My neighbour has a somewhat troublesome 110 TD5. It's a P10, my 1999 or 2000 i think. He has had some problems with his car, and should actually had returned it after he bought it. But he has kept it, and al sorts of trouble has turned up. Well, maybe not that many, but enough that he hasn't driven the car to much. When he fetched it, it was a bit hard to start, and had a leak in the coolant system. He was told that one of the injectors were not programmed correctly, and that caused the problem with the starting. At some point he checked the coolant fluid, and found diesel in it. Changed the diesel cooler, and it looks like the diesel has vanished from the coolant fluid. At some point it also seemed like the cooleant leak also vanished. but I guess it cfame back, cause he changed the thermostat housing (and thermostat). Now to the hard starting problem. If he tries to use the starter, the engine turns over, but fails to start. If he gets the car rolling, it starts with no problem. He get some help from a mechanics, who thinks the trouble is with the Ignition barrel, and adds a push button. It help some, but only for a short while. The starter stops working, and he fixes the starter with the Denso starter solenoid kit. Well, the engine turns over again, but still wont start. When I listen to the engine, it turns very slowly. He buys a new battery, but I'm not sure if it ever starts using the ignition. I'll ask him later, I think he's a sleep now. We also change the Fuel injector seal kit, and it starts a bit easier (when the car is rolling), but still wont start in the starter engine. The car has an Defa cold-start block warmer, with so called integrated charger. It's a constant 13.2 volt thing, that actually destroys the battery. To top that, someone has installed a seat heater thingy, with a relay, connected so that the relay draws constanlty 0.2 amp, so the battery is ruined in just a few days. Without a proper charger the battery is almost ruined. We're able to jumpstart the battery using his Disco2 TD5 and let the jumpers stay connected for 5 minutes. So we guess it's just a bad battery. Well, he borrows one of my chargers, and looks like we manage to get the battery back. But the car still wont start. Or when he tries at home, it wont start, but when he tries after fetching his kid from kindergarten, is starts on the ignition (still using the pushbutton). But I think that was the last time in some time. He takes the battery back to where he bought it, to get a new one under warranty, as it does not really hold that well. The denied, as the battery was still able to deliver the specified CCA. Well, I cant blame theme, as I know what's happened to the battery, and I dont blame him, I guess I would have done the same. Well, the starer problem is starting to bother me. He is nearly giving up on the car, and considering selling it. But for some reason he buys a new set of wheels for it. Ok, it stays. We just have to fix the staring issues. We've got some Diesels in the neighbourhood, I have my 200 tdi and a Td5 Disco, my other neighbour has his 300 tdi disco, (Actually he bought a 90 TD5 in the meantime but.. ) We connect the 300 tdi wit6h jumpstarter cables, but it wont fire. Then we switches batteries taking first on, the 2 batteries from the 300tdi into the 110 td5, but no help. Then we connects the 110 battery to the 2 Disco batteries using jumper cables, but no start. Then we start to look at the cables for the diesel pump, and pull a bit in the cables. then I try a "last time", and the beast starts. I Manage to start it a few times, then that's it. But each of the batteries are able to start the 300 tdi without problems. I put one of the batteries on charge for a couple of days, then we try again. But first we put a new connection between the ground point under the ECU, and negative battery connection (ve-?). No help. Then we start to look at the starter again. Looks like there is time for new starter solenoid kit again. A bit to soon, but maybe he got a bad set ? He took the starter to a mechanics, who looked at it. Ok, it's a bit worn, and should be replaced, but it should not cause these problems. Back again tonight, we made a new cable for earth, and connected it from Battery negative and directly to one of the bolts of the starter. No help. Then disconnected 12volt positive from the starter, and instead connected a newly charged battery directly to the starter. No help, or maybe. Then we disconnect the alternator from the starter as well. No help. then I wiggle (?) the connector to the flywheel sensor a bit. Almost. Then one more time. And it starts. Once. We try a few more times. then we take out the flywheel sensor, and give it a try a few more times. Then we get a pattern. If we let the glowing finish, and waits until the Fuel pump starts at "full throttle" again. Then we push the start button, and it starts. Again and again. With 2 batteries and no alernator. One of the battery on the floor. Ok, it's time to test with one battery again. But no help. But no, this battery was really low. When the staring fails, the fuel pump shuts down after we try, until we disconnect the flywheel sensor. Then the pump wont stop. So it seems like the flywheel sensor sort of works. But I think he is ordering a new flywheel sensor anyway. Another option is that maybe the pump fails. It seems to work ok, but we've not tested with another one yet. It's a 110, so he need s to take the tank down, or make a hole in the floor. But the car has another problem. We think it needs a new fuel pressure regulator, and that's what's causing it to eat the starter solenoid kits, but we're a bit afraid to do to much, as we're not able to bleed the diesel system. We're trying to pump the accelerator pump after turning on the ignition, but it wont start the bleeding process. Not sure if we should be able to start the process using the nanocom. Are there any other way to start the process ? Anyone knows what could cause the bleeding procedure not to start ? It should start even if the battery is a bit low ? Or, how much voltage should there be to start the procedure ? Any help and suggestions are appreciated.
  6. OK guys it continues (200tdi 1990 converted from a TD) I turn the ignition key and most of the time she will start on the odd occasion I will turn it and get full electrics BUT not even a click there is just nothing in the way of starting ........Rapid turn the key on and off some times it can be 3 turns another time 50-60 turn but eventually she kicks in and starts ......I can turn it off and it will instantly start again. OK so far on the try to fix it list A new battery Tried two new brand new starters no difference in fact one kept spinning and wouldn't disengage (so put the old one back on) Extra new earth strap New Starter relay New ignition switch Check and cleaned all my terminals Has any one ANY ideas at all ???????????????? I'm now drawn towards the cobra imbobalizer and alarm (But It still does it even if the alarm hasn't been touched/used like when filling up at a petrol station get back in and nothing) LOVE THE SITE NEW FRONT/LAY OUT looks well modern up to date
  7. Hi guys Land rover has been fine for months driving in the city today after 3-4 stops got in turned the key and nothing all dash lights on just not turning over. Rapid turn the key 20-30 times and she started ok on the button and started fine since ....now I did have loads problems a while back like this but since fitting a new battery it was all ok until now....??????????? Below some my old postings from previous staring problems OK my 1990 110 fitted with 200tdi ......After leaving my landy for a while I went to turn the key and NOTHING at first I thought it was the alarm system so re wired all that back in. Made no difference The next day went out and rapid turn the key in frustration and after about 40 turns it fired in to life next day same thing turn the key and nothing ...rapid turn the key over and over many times and then starts but sluggish... The more I have driven it the better this problem has got with it only doing it every now and then but still sluggish to start on the first start of the day and if it has done it a few turns of the key will start it rather than 30-40 turns....OK TIME TO SORT IT I cleaned all my earth straps and battery terminals and then turn the key and BANG fires in to life instant no sluggish start at all....yes mended he thinks....he thinks wrong I drive it for a whole day must have started it 40 plus times and all is ok good starting ...next few days all ok and instant start on the days first turn over.... then all of a sudden in the middle of the day after driving it turn the key and nothing again turn it off and back on and it starts .......10 mins later turn the key and nothing hold the key on and suddenly wer wer wer very very slow and then fires up . Its been fine for a whole week after that but went for a new starter anyway .......New starter fitted and connect the earth lead and fire it up and the starter keeps spinning wont disengage ????? New starter is faulty ??? and any ideas PLEASE New top RAC battery last year 2 years ago new ignition barrel Then..... The old starter was put back on temporary and it all works fine so I can only assume it was the new Bearmach starter (£88.95) that was faulty.......(That's being picked up tomorrow for a refund) I went to Fakenham Auto electrical for another replacement one and they had sold there last WAI one between me phoning and me getting there ARRRRRRRRRR So for the same as the WAI one £95 They supplied me with a remanufactured Bosch one with the Landy badge stamped into it so presume its a remanufactured genuine one..... (ERR5009) Not sure if thats a good or bad price for one of those So will see what happens tomorrow when its on....... ANOUTHER NEW STARTER Ok all connected up and turn the key and the land rover starts turn the key off and the solenoid still spins the only way to stop it spinning is to disconnect the earth battery terminal ...then put the earth back on and the land rover tries to start the cog clicks in place even with or with out the trigger wire connected or turning the key Ok its gone to my mates and had an auto electrician out and ......with the new starter on with the battery (which is just holding 11 amps) and a booster box on it starts fine and the starter disengages ........But with just the battery fitted to the landy try to start it and the starter keeps spinning ...The auto electricians explanation was that the volts and amps and that if low amps its allowing the starter to arc across and keep spinning ......Does this sound right ???? Solved was TWO brand new faulty starters in a row and original problem was a doggy trigger wire No it was not then fitted a new battery and all was ok Untill now PLEASE SOME ONE ANY IDEAS ?????
  8. PLEASE PLEASE help guys this one driving me mad....Talk about problems in 3's Ok started yesterday and im pulling my hair out I go to start her in the morning and nothing when I turn the key Keep turning the key and get click click click Charge the battery over night make sure its reading is good 13.2 slowly drops to 12.8 when not on charge And click click click Put the battery charger to start position even after charging it up and click click ....If I put the charger on to start position and and attach the booster box and she starts fine ........... Once she has run for a while turn her off. Re start her no booster, no charger and she will start fine Leave her for a while and she tries to start but cant quite get there turning over but just not there add the battery charger on start NO booster box and fires instantly and will loads times in a row. The longer you leave it the worse it seams to be at starting EVEN if I charge the battery then disconnect it reconnecting it a few hours later with the charger saying its a fully charged battery ......click click click Dam MOT in just over a week and a trip planned in her Any one any ideas on this ??? as driving me mad Terminals all cleaned battery and contacts.....earth strap cleaned and recent new earth from starter
  9. Hi all, I'm currently having a couple of issue with my defender starting, sometimes it will start fine and first time, other times when i turn the key you can here it try to turn over then struggles and sounds like a flat battery, what are the best ways to try and figure out whether it is my starter motor or the battery that is starting to give up My battery is reading around 12.2V +/- 0.2 when off reading of my internal voltmeter, when running around 14.1v +/- 0.2 The other question my 200tdi engine has started to feel a little bit more sluggish, and espcially when going into 4th gear it seems to have a drop power then takes a while to get up speed again. e.g in 3rd gear will do 35mph then i need to change gear to 4th and when i do it will drop about 5mph then take around 5-10secs to get from 30mph to 40 ect once up to around 45mph it seems to have enough ummph and will go along nicely, just seems really slow and sluggish overall. could this be due to my turbo going/have gone ( if so how do i tell) or any other suggestions sorry if any of this is vague im not to technical at cars atm still learning but learning in style with my defender any help is much appreciated Ollie
  10. Hi, I have a 2006 Defender 130 which has recently become temperamental on starting. About 40% of the the time it starts fine while the remainder all you get when you turn the key is a soft click as if you have zero power in the battery. I normally reset the immobilizer and after 1 - 2 mins of turning the key the car seems to fire up no problem. The non starting is becoming more frequent, I have charged the battery and changed some of the fuses which needed doing. Any suggestions on how to resolve the problem would be really helpful.
  11. Hi, Help please My defender recently failed while driving, pulled over and tried to restart the engine, it cranks but will not fire. Once i finally got it back home thanks to AA taking 4 hours to rescue. Checked the fuel pump, reprimed system. Replaced the following Fuel pump Fuel filter Air bleed valve Crank sensor Fuel pressure regulator Injector seals Even sent the car to a local garage who claimed the fault was the ECU, sourced replacement ECU, they reprogrammed injectors and alarm to ECU. Ive drained the fuel and refilled with fresh, old fuel not a week old thou (full tank) The strange thing is i had simular problem month ago with full tank, i manage to get landy running buy replacing the crank sensor and drained fuel. This time the car was on a full tank of fuel and traveled approx the same distance Messed about with relays and tested all fuses with multimeter Im now stuck as a small fortune has been spent and still no start Any advise will be great Thanks
  12. Hi all have my ignition switch off at the moment as since i have owned the car (6 months) there has been a separate momentary push button for starting. . Ignition switch is still there but after I turn on fully, I then have to push this button to start. What I need to know is if the spring part is in the lock barrel assembly or the switch contact assembly(on the back) Took the back switch off and there is just a 'notchy' position selector but no spring return? The lock barrel which is still in the assembly also does not feel to have any spring return when key is fully turned on?? How do you take the barrel out of the housing?-I see 2 brass locating pins but how do they come out. At the moment the push start switch is bypassing the brake check relay and starter relay and I would like to get these back to standard to avoid possible later breakdown of ignition barrel/ switch contacts
  13. HI all I've had a quick browse through the old posts but couldn't find anything similar to this problem. Our 1998 L-series 2.0 diesel Freelander stalled as Mrs Blip pulled away from traffic lights after a long journey. It wouldn't restart - it would turn over and over and we checked all the fueling problems and couldn't spot anything wrong. Further investigation spotted that the glow plug lamp wasn't illuminating - the 70amp fuse hadn't just blown but melted. The engine management light fuse in the cabin fuse box had also blown. After replacing this, all was well and the car started first time and ran fine. I've now been able to recreate the problem, by pulling away roughly. The first time I tried it, the glow plug light illuminated briefly just as the engine almost stalled but then recovered. I tried it a second time - no glow plug light (fuse blown) and the vehicle stalled and wouldn't start (engine management fuse blown) Any thoughts? Cheers Blippie
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy