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Found 16 results

  1. Hi, I'm thinking about replacing the steering wheel on my 1989 One Ten and I'm looking for some advice/opinions on Boss & wheel diameter please. I currently have a 16" diameter wheel and 36 spline (17mm ish) shaft. Firstly the Boss. Any recommendations? I assume they come with indicator cancelling pins and I would like a fairly short one so it doesn't bring the wheel any closer to my getting-larger-stomach. Is there a big difference between them or are they all pretty much the same? Would this Raptor 4x4 one fit the most common wheel makes that are available? Secondly, What diameter wheel have you fitted and how do you find it? Would a 14" feel too small after years with a 16" or what about a 15"? Or did you replace yours with a 16"? Opinions please! Thanks, Heds
  2. Hi everyone have a problem with my 2003 td 4 front end when turning the wheel get a clonking noise , had front end checked by two mechanics , bushes , springs , track rod end all fine still got the problem,any ideas thanks David
  3. Trying to get the 109 back on the road, one of the jobs is to replace a dodgy track rod end - easy peasy right? Not with Volvo portals on a RHD truck, the parts just don't exist anymore. The Volvo setup uses offset TRE's, they have a cranked end to reach around the end casting at full lock: Which complicates matters somewhat, but not nearly as much as the other end: That's the drop arm joining on the nearside TRE, which has two tapered pins in one casting. The offset means you can't put LHD parts in as they're then cranked the wrong way. The offset from the cranked part is about 25.4mm Now it's basically unpossible to find a modern off-the-shelf TRE that would match this beastie, so I'm assuming I'm going to have to get a couple of ends machined that can then accept either a different TRE or a Heim joint, and new steering links to suit. An alternative may be to crank the ends of a steering bar but that seems like introducing a weakness. There's also the question over what sort of joints to use: Ideally I'd track down some currently available TRE's with the correct taper and use those as I really don't want to machine the casting, but I have found after many hours of e-mails and phone calls that TRE companies simply don't know what the pin taper is on any of their parts - they don't write it down, it's not in their computer, you can't find anyone who will even admit to the idea and they certainly can't or won't give any hints on other parts which may be the same. If you could strangle someone over the phone for being unhelpful and useless there would be several dead bodies at ZF/Lemforder HQ by now Anyway, unless anyone has any information on TRE pin tapers that I've somehow missed I'm left with plans B and C: Plan B is looking at the possibility of machining a tapered insert to adapt something to fit in the hole. Not an ideal solution IMHO, and frustratingly there doesn't appear to be a LR part that lends itself to the job at hand. The most popular TRE's, as fitted to all coilers, are too "short" in the taper to fill me with confidence. D2/P38 ones (QFS 000010) get much closer but leave very little room for an insert. How LR TRE's fit in the hole: How P38 TRE's fit in the hole: I could start fishing round for TRE's from other vehicles but as manufacturers don't actually know the measurements it means basically trying to persuade a parts counter to let you look in all their boxes until you find one that's maybe close-enough. Sticking with LR would mean easy to buy parts and a fair chance they're up to the job at hand. Plan C is to use heim joints and either machine a tapered pin, or a tapered sleeve for a regular bolt to pass through the original tapered hole. Now, there are a number of issues with this plan, not least of which is the fact that heim joints do not like mud and dirt and wear out in moments. I've been told that going against manufacturer's advice and adding boots & grease to them makes them last much better, but I'm still quite wary of them. Whatever I do I'm going to need to solve the offset issue, to my mind this means machining a chunk of metal that accepts the thread of the TRE or heim and then has an offset threaded end to screw into a steering bar, plus one of them will need some way of joining up with the drag link, a tapered hole that will accept another TRE seems the obvious thing to me. I'm taking it as a given that whatever I do, I'll be making new steering bars to suit. So, any help, advice, horror stories, information, experience would be greatly appreciated at this point. The big questions are: - Can you crank the end of a steering bar and it still be strong enough? - Could you machine a tapered sleeve to fit despite the lack of clearance at the top (as per the diagram) or would that be a bad idea? - Can heim joints be made reliable enough for UK on & off-road use? - If you machined a lump of metal to give the offset & joint for the drop arm, what material/grade would you use?
  4. Can anybody tell me what the problem is in the pic, and what parts I need to fix it? Also.. While I'm firing questions about, The 15amp fuse for the turn light, headl/tail lights and break lights keeps blowing every time I turn my 1996 Es 300tdi on, sometimes just when I'm driving to.. When I indicate right rhe trailer light flashes asswell, not sure if that's relevant.. But o haven't got a clue where to start looking for the short, any ideas? I'm new to all this land rover business, I'm pretty aware mechanically but I can't speak the language ? So any help would be great ? Thanks
  5. Hi, I got a 2000 td5 a few months back and did a 2" terrafirma full lift kit, HD steering damper. Problem is that now I have a groaning noise every time the steering is in top position when I turn the wheels from straight to the right . If I jack the right side just a bit from the ground the noise goes away, also if I put a bar under the driveshaft and push it up noise goes away when steering. I took off the driveshaft seems ok I try to adjust but the problem still there :| What could be the problem ? Do I need caster correction bushes ? thnx,
  6. Hi all, I have heard many times that "full hydro" steering is good because it will enable extreme front axle suspensión upgrades without worrying about "bump steering". Price and road legalities are the cons, but...what about using a beef steering from a 5-6 Ton van with IFS? Iveco Daily, MB Sprinter...could be donnors. Will this steerings work OK connected to standard LR PAS pump or will they need donnor´s one? Steering rack to steering wheel connection will be via a looooooooooooong slip UJ shaft.
  7. Gidday Doing some research for the legal side of a new project I'm looking at building up a 109 Slla into a tow wagon/camper, I'm putting together the application for approval of the modifications, one of the mods I want to do is power steering, the certifier I'm dealing with is in the process of gaining approval to be allowed to approve steering mods so I'm providing him with alot more detail than I normally do, part of this is detailing standard steering I still have standard steering on my Slll what I'd like to know is.... is this the same on the Slla At this stage I'm planing on using either a hilux or a surf power steering box, but this will depend alot on what he is able to work through
  8. OK, I need to consult the collective on Panhard Rod Bushes (PRB or problem as I am thinking of them at the moment!). I fitted new metalastic, all makes to every area of the discovery D1 300TDi 2" lift back in Dec. I had a terrible power steering leak, but got let down on a replacement box before a decent trip out. The ATF ate the top bush over the course of the 2000km and we did a bit of bush repair to keep it drivable. New box fitted and new bush back in in March. 3 Weeks ago got the death wobbles again and on checking the bush was shot again, about an inch of movement on the chassis end, nothing noticable on axle end. Now, lets get the various usual culprits out of the way: o It was on the ground when tightened o I was lazy and didn't replace the slightly worn chassis bolt at the time (naughty I know) and tightened it firmly. I assumed it was one of the likely causes, eyed holes etc. o The chassis bracket doesn't seem to have any particular eyeing of the holes o No visible motion of the bolt (before bush change or afterwards) o The bolt, while damaged wasn't actually that bad and was a snug fit in the bush So, I am now starting to consider that the cause of the wear is the chassis mount has been bent in (by us tightening the carp out of while outback) and is gripping the central bush tube. My theory is that this then causes the tube to be held stationary, while the arm moves, effectively tearing the tube away from the rubber, it would fit with how clean the tube had been removed and the condition of the rubber. However, searches show people suggesting that the inner tube *should* be gripped in the bracket. So that is big question/argument one. Should the chassis be a very light interference fit to the tube, minimizing the motion, but allowing free rotation or should it be gripped tight? Next, I fitted two new bolts this time. Because I was being anal I note that the shank is a great length when you have the bush on the workbench, but when you add in a washer or two, the chassis brackets, it is too short. The bracket rests on the threaded section, the shank (grip length?) would need to be around 15-20mm longer to have it resting on the bracket and minimizing motion. So, that's the next one, are the bolts the right ones? Even if they are, should they be replaced by ones with a longer shank. This is not too difficult on the top one, but the axle one would be tricky unless the overall length stays the same. The only other factor I can think of is that the lift has altered the caster, this has caused the bushes to be loaded with 'twisty' forces, if you can envision what I mean. Though I haven't really noticed this being an issue on any of the other rovers I've had. And, just to make up for reading a long post about a single bush... Here's a link to a few photos from Outback NSW https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10200618218924089.198895.1418294738&type=1&l=070ce8b782
  9. Hi, I replaced the drop arm ball joint yesterday (what fun...) on my 1989 2.5 td 90, now the steering seems to have become less accurate. I can move the steering wheel 1/8 - 1/4 a turn without the wheels moving. On examination underneath, the ball joint/ steering arm is moving (ie the ball flexing in its seat), but not enough to get the rods mobile. Have I screwed up the fitting? Not tightened enough? Has it just uncovered a dodgy damper? Is this what LR steering is supposed to feel like ? (Because it was more accurate with the knackered ball joint!!) Thanks
  10. Hi Folks I'm well into the refurb on my series 3, would appreciate some advice re the steering. From a fixed point on the outer edge of the steering wheel you can turn the wheel 20 - 25mm before anything starts to move on the other side of the steering box. Is this normal ? fixable ? acceptable ? Regards Kev
  11. hi guys, got excessive play on steering,i dont drive the car that often and my other half says its fine but there is a lot of play,i have recently changed a leaky seal on the bottom of the steering box and replaced the steel pipes from the pump although i dont think this would affect the play,any pointers would be appreciated,arms or bushes or somthing ad a look round the site but cant find anything cheers.
  12. Hi there now that i am keeping my Landy I thought I would try to improve it a litte, the power steer unit has stopped leaking (for the time being) but got my heart set on doing something about it. One reason being that the steering is lousy, I can get about a 10 degrees turn on the steer wheel before the wheels turn, the uj's are fine on the column and all seems pretty solid underneath. On the motorway I darent take her above 55 as any sort of corner is scary. It doesnt respond well and when it does you oversteer to get it back and so the see saw effect begins until you slow down. One question I would like to ask is will changing the steer unit improve the steering as a whole? ta
  13. Morning all, I am trying to work out if it is possible to fit a straight drop arm to a 6 bolt steering box, I have been told it can be done with a 4 bolt head but the 6 bolt output shaft is smaller dia', any thoughts??????????DW
  14. So i got my first RRC and love it! ('92 Vogue with some aftermarket mods) In order to register it on Australian roads it needs to have a valid (30-day) roadworthy certificate, which it failed due to leaking power steering - I managed not to say "Well, Duh!" to the mechanic. Leaks come from both the steering box and the pump. Managed to slow the flow with Stop Leak, maybe enough to pass - we'll see. Anyway, i've looked over many forums and tech diagrams but cant find an answer to a simple question; apologies if already been asked. What type(s) of oil/fluid is in the steering box? The pump leaks Power Steering fluid (reddish clear fluid) which obviously gets piped into the steering box; but the leak at the steering box output shaft seems to be colourless. Is there an additional feed or oil reservoir that i can't find, or am I just going colour blind? Thanks, Kenny
  15. Hi, I've just bought a 52 plate 110 and I am having problems with the steering which is making a load moaning noise. It is far.... worse when I turn left rather than right...... anyone got any ideas as I've been struggling with this for the last month and I am quickly running out of WD40!! Thanks.........attachment=39197:LR.jpg
  16. Hi, I'm trying to track down the cause of my steering problems. It is a G reg One Ten and I think I have more than one issue here. All bushes are yellow polybush and were fitted by previous owner. I have had the car for around 4 years now I think. 1) Firstly when I come off the accelerator the car veers slightly to the left and when I put on power, it veers slightly to the right. 2) The whole car sometimes feels as though it shimmies. I can be driving along and it feels as though it the back end has snaked gently. I won't have hit any pot holes or bumps. 3) If I do hit a pot hole or bump, I really feel it on the steering wheel. I have so far replaced the drag link ball joint, put in a new damper, replaced one rear bearing and tightened up the other and this Saturday I am replacing the drop arm as the ball joint is knackered. The track rod ends are fairly new and don't look as though they have gone. I have heard that issue 1) is caused by worn panhard bushes. I have had this picked up twice on an MOT and twice and I have replaced the bushes/bolts twice and now they are less than a year old. Could I have a worn mount instead and if so is welding a washer on the best move or are there other options? Would replacing the rear radius arm bushes help with 2) or is this the A frame balljoint? And what is causing number 3) ? My actual steering is tight, I don't have any excessive play and I replaced the steering column lower UJ last year. I have inspected all the bushes and can't see any excessive play in them but maybe I'm not beeing forceful enough and should pry them harder. thanks for your help. Heds
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