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Found 12 results

  1. Hello, I am new to the forum and would love some advice. I have a 1966 Series IIA that I replaced the rear leaf springs on. One the rear left side I had to pull the shackle in with a strap to bolt on the rear spring. On the other side the shackle moved freely back and forth. In my excitement in getting it back together I assumed that it would not make a difference. Now I have a one inch difference in the back and I cant stand it. Should I have spring in these shackles, get a new bushing, or is something wrong with the freely moving one? I want an idea of what I am dealing with before I tear her apart again. Thanks!!
  2. Hi everyone have a problem with my 2003 td 4 front end when turning the wheel get a clonking noise , had front end checked by two mechanics , bushes , springs , track rod end all fine still got the problem,any ideas thanks David
  3. I have a 2002 Landrover Discovery and I am wanting to turn ACE off as I spend my time in the outback. Basically the ride is way to hard. I have changed the shockers to Bilstien Gas & upgraded the springs to match. After owning a early model Range Rover and seeing how good their ride was I am trying to replicate it by turning off the ACE system. Does any one know if this is possible.
  4. Hi all, We have a pair of terrafirma big bore shocks on our defender 130 ambulance camper conversion. After having a shock fail due to it popping off the top bush and reading that others have experienced this, ideally we would like to change to poly bushes. I can seem to find them anywhere after a long internet trawl... Any advice? I saw in an old post someone had purchased super pro bushes forth em but I can't seem yo find ones the right size? Many thanks Sammy
  5. Hi guys, I have a Defender 90 that is experiencing repeated front prop/UJ wear/failure and need to know if it has been lifted or not. Is there a simple measurement I can take from say the axle to somewhere that will tell me this? If it has been lifted, it is not my much and I don't think enough to be causing the issue, but I could do with knowing one way or the other. Cheers
  6. Hi, I have the parabolic kit and it works very well. I bought the Load level B and my LR has a Soft canvas. For that the rear looks a higher and the rear wheels are moved forward thanks to that. Since I have both, the soft and hard top, do you can tell any simple trick to make it more level when it goes with the soft one? It's normal to have this, at least I found more series with this suspension with the same problem...
  7. Something I've had in the back of my mind for a bit now, I've brought it up now as it may have implications to do with Bills thread on retained coils... I'm curious to see if I'm right lol Now please bear in mind I'm looking at this from a low to med speed point of view (typical 4wd'n speeds) How a Panhard suspension systems rollcenter height performs compared to a triangulated system with no panhard I know this may sound daft but.... I have come to the conclusion at low speed the panhard systems is not as is commonly thought "Half way between a virtual line between the two mounting points of the panhard bar, so effectively half way between axle mount and chassis mount..." Here's my thoughts on it I'll start first with a comment that I think is why most miss what I'm getting at "speed"... most of the calculations for forces in automotive handling are worked out for vehicles with motion and inertial mass.... now we are trying to apply these to our sport but where we are going alot slower, alot of the time we will have minimal inertia so a minor change of direction wont have the same resistance or possibly no resistance at all (Sorry to all those who know science speak, I know I'm not describing this right lol please bear with me ) Right let me describe something so this makes sense, I'll start with the triangulated system, lets say the rear "A" frame setup of a coil sprung landy .... the rollcenter is the ball at the end of the "A" arm, now forcing the body to pivot on this is the "A" frame so this locks the body into this relationship... this can't change due to speed, orientation to a side slope (yes I know it changes in relation to the body CoG due to extension and compression of the suspension but both front and rear do this so I'm ignoring it) Now on a panhard system what is to resist and force the relationship so that rollcenter height stays there Most books and people I've talked too say... that it is the sideways motion of the body as the panhard bar swings under compression or extension, as the bar swings in an arc that creates a sideways motion between the chassis and the axle In my opinion this amounts to little to no resistance at our speeds, also the amount of sideways movement is not that great compared to the weight that is in the body and supposedly pivoting on it Even if it did have some resistance lets look at what is resisting it... imagine the truck with the front panhard bar under compression, this wants to force the front of the truck to one side so what resists this, remember there is little force from inertial change so the only real resistance is the wheels in contact with the ground at the back of the truck and a long lever (length of the truck) working against these... remember its only a few mm or sideways movement The way I see it... it is the axle pivot for the panhard is the real rollcenter height, I can't see any resistance to the body's movement coming from the chassis pivot at low speed I haven't put this to any of the trials guys over here yet..... but curious to see if anybody out there that has gone from a panhard to triangulated suspension and noted an improvement in roll resistance, but with similar RC heights? Comments ?
  8. Hi all, I took the disco in for wheel alignment the other day as its been pulling left a while and I thought it'd be best to sort it out so I dont ruin my tyres. Anyway, it came back from the garage doing the same thing, I thought the mechanic hadn't done his job properly but having a poke about underneath I notice the ARB mount on the right is bent forward, would this make the car steer left? My idea is that if its pushing the right side of the axle forward it would make the car steer left, or am I being thick? Oh and how do I fix this? My thought is a big hammer but just a bit worried the mount might snap off, I suppose I could always take the ARB off completely. Any opinions will be gratefully received.
  9. OK I have done a bit of a dumb thing, I was changing the tyre on my Discovery 4 2011 model, and I jacked up the car in the wrong place, think it was on the air suspension cover, and it made a loud crack. I have put on a new tyre, but now the suspension on the side where I changed the tyre has dropped (left back). The vehicle drives fine, but makes a clicking sound for about 30-50 seconds after I start driving, and the same noise when the switch off the engine. Can anybody give advice what the problem is? What cost it may involve? The LR dealer by me has not got a good rep, so rather ask advice before taking it in for repairs.
  10. i have an ex-MOD defender 90 which is a 1987. i'm looking to upgrade the suspension to something a little less 'hard'.... any recommendations?
  11. Hello, I have tough dog FC41397 shocks on my disco 2, I looked all around for some information on their opening length and couldn't find. Does anyone know if they will fit a spring of 3" lift? thanks ​yoav
  12. Hello, A friend just gave me a new Eibach very good springs (set of 4), The front spring is 430mm and the rear is 470mm so I need to buy a new suspension kit (great gift). I can get Koni shocks at a good price. Does anyone have a good experience with them? What model will fit a 3" lift for the disco 2? Thanks yoav
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