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Found 5 results

  1. Hi all, im sure this has been covered but i cant find the answer im looking for. My 02 td5 90 brake lights have stopped working. The tail light parts work when the lights are turned on but when i press the brake pedal they dont brighten up as the should the just go off altogether. If i dont have the lights on and brake nothing happens. So bulbs look fine, fuse fine. So would it be the brake switch? I cant seem to licate the switch, does anyone have a photo to help me find it? Or is there a relay for the brake lights? Many thanks in advance Joe
  2. Hi I have posted this in the wanted section as well, but really need to get hold of a bracket and switch for the bonnet alarm on a Defender. It is the one which mounts near to the servo. Can anyone assist? Picture attached Mike
  3. As I work through the electrics on my 1980 SIII diesel, I am steadily discovering the many small electrical problems i didn't know i had. The most recent is the Lucas 3-position blower motor switch. After two days of google-fail and to the point of, "I'll just buy a new one....", I decided to tear the switch apart and give it one last try. The results were smashing and i want to post here for anyone who finds themselves in the same predicament, All those posts of, " if you have power on the LGN wire, then you have fixed it.....", or "green wire goes to the slow speed" i found to be useless with no wires attached to my switch and no good circuits through it. So, here it goes. I stared off by prying the toggle end off of the switch. There are two tabs on each side. Be gentle. Once apart, you can see the simplicity of 1940's technology. The wiper moves in the direction of the toggle. Two of the springs did pop off, but they were not too terribly difficult to put back with a tiny screwdriver; eyeglasses sized screwdriver. Once disassembled, I soaked the parts in vinegar- especially the body of the switch. This removed all corrosion and oxidation. If you can see, the wiper is fixed with a iron or steel pin. This pin corroded and caused my switch to malfunction. Some steel wool and vinegar cleaned it all up. In the photos below, common is the common + side. before re-assembly, i lubed all contact parts with dielectric grease. and here is the switch, reassembled with the contacts as they work for me. This is the same switch as the 3-position headlamp switch. I know it's a simple fix, but it saved me $30 and a weeks wait for a new new switch! Hope it helps someone in need. johnny
  4. Hi all, odd problem with the ignition switch. On searching this and other forums, the usual issue is the key not turning. In my case the key turns but won't stay in the "on" position. So the car starts, then seems to die. Caused a panic for my wife who was driving it when the problem started, and I was imagining blocked fuel lines or dead solenoids (diesel) etc. Anyway, easy fix is a new switch but I wondered if anyone had an idea for a "magic fix", and avoid my needing 2 keys from now on!
  5. Hi all have my ignition switch off at the moment as since i have owned the car (6 months) there has been a separate momentary push button for starting. . Ignition switch is still there but after I turn on fully, I then have to push this button to start. What I need to know is if the spring part is in the lock barrel assembly or the switch contact assembly(on the back) Took the back switch off and there is just a 'notchy' position selector but no spring return? The lock barrel which is still in the assembly also does not feel to have any spring return when key is fully turned on?? How do you take the barrel out of the housing?-I see 2 brass locating pins but how do they come out. At the moment the push start switch is bypassing the brake check relay and starter relay and I would like to get these back to standard to avoid possible later breakdown of ignition barrel/ switch contacts
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