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Found 10 results

  1. Hi guys! Hippo needs rescue. Please help! Freelander 2004, TD4, manual. 93k. I keep getting the same code P1190- Fuel Rail Pressure Plausibility. Car starts limping usually in second and third gear around 2k revs +/- I tried many things already, cleared the code, but so far it keeps coming back when I go for a ride..... UNLESS I disconnect the fuel rail pressure sensor. Without the sensor connected the car doesn't limp anymore. Code comes with MAF disconnected for example. Injectors are fine. I do get live readings of 350+Kpa for LP and 26k+ at idle for HP pump, which goes up to 120k. Can't go past 3k revs in 5th gear, 70MPH. Unless downhill. I have videos if you need more evidence. But maybe you guys can explain why car doesn't go in MIL limp mode when fuel pressure sensor is disconnected. I checked the cables. They have 5v and 0.5v return at ignition. Can this mean 100% the sensor is broken? Any help sooo much appreciated!! I've been dealing with this for some time and have no idea what can be wrong. And how can I test what is broken....
  2. Hi I have a 2003 Freelander TD4 BMW diesel with an issue that's driving me mad ! It had a leaky High Pressure fuel pump (Bosch CP1) so I removed this and replaced the seals. Everything seemed fine for a few days, however thereafter once hot and under load the engine will hesitate, EML will come on and it runs poorly. Switching off resolved the problem until hard acceleration again. Diagnostic had thrown up : Low fuel pressure, MAF and fuel pressure regulator. All of these have been replaced including MAP sensor, fuel rail regulator loom, turbo boost control valve, inlet manifold clean etc all to no avail. Seems to drive fine from cold even under load it's after around 20 miles and at temperature that the issues occur again, regular as clockwork. I'm assuming either a lead is breaking down once hot creating more resistance or the high pressure pump refurbishment is causing the issue. Any advice much appreciated Cheers Lee
  3. Ok so a bit of background.. I got a tidy TD4, new shape freelander1 about 4 months back from a garage, quite high miles, but in great shape body wise. Had been running well upto about 1 month ago, when I noticed a little lag around 40-50mph & a bit of smoke, nothing serious, so though I'd do a bit of DIY, filter check etc. Did a bit of reading up on YouTube/Interweb etc & decided to do the air filter & crankcase filter at the same time. Noticed that there was a bit of oil to the side of the dipstick (indicating a blocked breather) & also a little about some of the hoses (possibly a split). Plumped for the BMW type crankcase as the one I took out was filthy. With the intention of replacing the hoses eventually with some nice silicon ones. The car ran much better for the next couple of weeks, no smoke, a little more pokey, happy days...... Yesterday, idling in a jam, my engine started to rev higher & higher, smoke pouring out of the exhaust, ignition off, still running (I papped myself, to say the least). Mr AA turns up, without checking anything other than the dipstick, he said those dreaded words "turbo's knackered" Few calls later at home, sitting depressed at the though of £,SSS of pounds to get my nice looking car back on the road, (I had so many plans for this motor). Now that I've calmed down, I need to know. I've got a spare run-around motor for work, but I want to get my Freelander back on the road within the next few months. Is buying reconditioned turbo from the internet a good move ? Can a novice fit one with a bit of researching ? Is it better shelling out £1,200 (cheapest I've been quoted) to get a garage to do it ? In addition to this, was Mr AA correct in presuming the turbo is dead, could I save it by replacing elements of the turbo, i.e. the hoses, seals etc. or do I take his word for it. Look forward to hearing your replies & I'll keep the thread updated with my progress. Steve.
  4. My 2004 TD4 is a troublesome car. I bought it from Craddocks 6 months ago and it caused them trouble throughout the warranty period. Recently when going uphill the EML will come on and reduced power. Stop, restart and it clears until the next hill. When it's not on you can press hard with no problem. I've disconnected and reconnected the MAF sensor and there is no effect. Recent Fuel Pump Reg, Alternator, Battery and full service plus Craddocks spent two weeks trying every last thing. ( I fell out with them ?), No fault codes. Please does someone have the answer or any suggestions, other than a can of petrol and box of matches. This car could end my love of Landies.
  5. Hi, just wondering if any one could help me diagnose what is wrong with my TD4 (2002) I have had no problems with it until the weekend. as I was driving once it got to 30mph there seemed to be no pull and like the power wasn't there. it did gain speed but very slowly. as I was taking it to the garage on Monday it cut out and the engine management light came on, I had it towed but once it got there it started first time and there was no engine management light... I am a bit useless when it comes to knowing about anything like this (I have to admit I rely on my dad and if he's not about what the garage tells me it is ) But now every one is a little bit stummed as the engine management light is now off so its not coming up with any fault. any ideas on what it could be would be greatly appreciated Thanks
  6. Hi, I would love to hear any feedback you may have with my problem...it is a long story but will try to keep it as short as I can! Basically my freelander (04 plate) TD4 was playing up ... lumpy, losing power, knocking...I took it to a Landrover specialist who told me I needed 1 injector replacing, they did the work and told me when I went to pick it up that another injector may need changing, however it wasn't urgent and was so minor it didn't show up on the diagnostics. When I drove the car home (after paying for the new injector) I found the car to be exactly the same as before, I rung them and told them for them to tell me it was because another injector needed replacing (the one that was so minor it didnt show up) I took it back, they changed another injector...it worked fine...for 3 weeks and again after paying for the 2 new injectors it was again lumpy, no power, knocking on the underside of the car. I took it to be investigated, the injectors were sent away to be looked at. The report has come back that 3 of the injectors are faulty - including the 2 the garage changed 4-5 weeks ago, they have also put in MG injectors - which are faulty and not up to standard! This is going to cost me another £800 to replace the 3 injectors. Is there anything I can do to report the landrover specialist garage that replaced 2 injectors with faulty MG injectors? I have had the car 4 weeks since they were changed and now I am going to have to fork out another £800 to get this fixed. I cannot afford this and may have to get rid of my beloved freelander. Can anybody help with this issue, has this happened before...are Landrover Specialists allowed to put in MG injectors which are faulty (surely not!!) Any replies will be greatly appreciated, Thank you
  7. Landrover TD4 HSE 05 I've got a split in this hose (the one with the pathetic looking gaffa tape) http://i.imgur.com/chETnd0.jpg My garage is telling me they would replace it with http://www.lrdirect.com/PNH500190-Hose-Air/?sfi=PNH500190 But Surely I only need change the damaged part which looks to me like.. http://www.lrdirect.com/PNH000020-Hose-Intercooler-To-Turbo-Td4/?sfi=PNH000020 What bit do I need??? Cheers!
  8. Hi Guys and Girls, I have an issue with my 05 freebie Td4 which has done 95000 miles. She is rough idling at around 750rpm and is smokey (white) when cold, does not stall but is hunting. when warmed up she runs fine, I have noticed that when I disconnect the high pressure fuel sensor she stops hunting, I have no warning lights or codes in the OBD, but my interrogator only shows a limited live stream. Will a dealer/independents OBD interrogator be able to distinguish between healthy or blocked injectors and or sensors if there are no fault codes from the ECU? I have replaced all filters including fuel, and am planning on changing oil as soon as I get the chance, so far have seen no real improvement. has anyone had a similar issue or guidance as to narrow down the problem, I am thinking injector (expensive, is it worth getting from a scrapper and do they all need to be balanced) or fuel regulator/sensor Thanks in advance
  9. Hi, Some images: 1. underside Td5, looks like rubber / plastic cover but butchered with knife and lot's of oil.... standard item? (185.000 km) 2. Td4 engine oil leak, any idea? (123.000 km) 3. Td4 same engine rocker cover leak or worse? It's two cars I have had a look at today. Cheers Marco
  10. I just bought a 2001 Freelander TD4 for almost nothing. Zero history came with it and hasn't been driven for 2 years but has 12 months MOT/Tax. The clock reads 48k, the condition of the body and interior screams 3x that figure. My problem is that whilst it drives OK, it makes a low howling noise that sound like wind blowing into a hole in trim or bodywork somewhere. (I had that on wing mirror indicator lens on another car and it sounded very similar). The sound only happens when I drive over 30MPH and is only evident when I back off the throttle over 30MPH. If I accelerate hard to 50-60 or faster the noise doesn't happen until I stop accelerating. This makes me think it can't be wind noise. I have also discovered that if i deliberately drive over drain hole covers with the left front wheel it seems to temporarily stop whilst the wheel is on the drain (although I might be imagining that?) Any suggestions on where to look? Its driving me nuts!
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