Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'tdi'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • The Lounge
    • International Forum
    • Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
    • Getting out and about
    • Competing in Land Rovers
    • Tools and Fabrication
    • The Video Shack
  • Tech Archive
    • Land Rover Technical Archive
    • Requests for Part Numbers
  • Vehicles
    • Series Forum
    • Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
    • New Defender Forum (2020 onwards)
    • The New Ineos Grenadier
    • Freelander Forum
    • Discovery Forum
    • Range Rover Forum
    • Military Forum
    • Evoque Forum

Calendars

There are no results to display.

Blogs

  • LR90's Blog
  • geoffbeaumont's Blog
  • My 1991 RRC 4.0 V8
  • Doublecab Happenings

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 14 results

  1. Hi, Just curious as to what I should expect to pay a mechanic for a 300 tdi cam belt change? Any advice appreciated. Cheers
  2. Hi, I've got a manual 300tdi disco. The speedo stopped working the other day, but then half way through my journey it just picked back up and continued fine. It's done this a couple more times now. Any ideas what component is at fault? Cheers.
  3. Hi, My 200 tdi has suddenly become hard to start if it hasn't run for a while. If it has just run it fires up straight away. When starting it will crank over and over and over then catch and stop then catch again, run very lumpily then start running normally with a blip of the throttle. There is always white smoke on start up which clears as it heats up. Once running it is fine, there is plenty of power and I can't detect any issues. No hunting, surging etc etc. My plugs are only a few years old but I haven't taken them out to test on the bench. I'm getting 10v at each one My ba
  4. I have always enjoyed driving the 300 TDI since 1997, i currently face problems when i drive over an hour and the engine is heated. Once i turn off the engine, my car can't be started anymore. There isn't even any cranking, relay or solenoid sound. Does anyone here face this similar problem? Would you please share your experience and suggest what's wrong with my car?
  5. I'm of the opinion that the cylinder head on my tdi 200 isn't in the best of health, worn valve guides and the like, etc and was thinking of getting it reconditioned. The two serious reconditioners, Turners and ACR, both have a "performance" version of the head for not a lot more money. Has anyone fitted one of these heads? What was the experience before and after? I'm just wondering if it's worth it? G.
  6. Hello folks, Just a thought of mine but would it be possible to make a chip/Micro-controller to replace the engine ECU that allows an older engine to be installed in a Disco 2 Td5 but still retain all the features that makes the D2 so lovely What I am proposing is a plug in chip to replace the engine ECU with the following features: Can read a crank sensor on the new engine. Can read the oil pressure switch. Can read the temperature sensor. Puts out a 12v feed for the stop solenoid. Controls an electric actuator on the fuel pump for throttle control (no changes to interior or pedal box and
  7. Hi all! I have came to the conclusión that the 200 Tdi Discovery that my brother gave me (rotten and with broken engine) is beyond repair. I will buy my own Discovery. Secondhand late 200 and early 300 are in the same price range. The preparation of the 300 will be cheaper, because I save the 10 to 24 spline conversion (I could use a 200 and 10 spline lockers and HD shafts, but they are more expensive than 24 spline ones). In the 300 I can fit a EGR blanking kit but, what about electronics? A friend bought the "spider" bypass loom AMR4956 for the immobilizer, but was unable to locate where
  8. Quick question. Is it possible to tee the leak off (return line) from Inj pump into the filter, to be circulated back into pump, without going to tank first? Or would lift pump pressure / return pressures fight against each other? Cheers
  9. I recently had a Britpart fuel pump fail on me. Interested to what I would find inside, I decided to cut it apart. This is what I found. I was actually quite surprised. The general quality of construction is quite reasonable. The rubber in the diaphragm and valves is of good quality. However, what caused it to fail was the filter on the inlet clogging up. I have come across TDi fuel pumps with a removable cover that houses an inlet filter. This one was not removable so you cannot clean it without cutting the pump open. So my conclusion: Sure, use a Britpart fuel pump, but fit somethin
  10. I hope i'm not violating some rule, if so, please take into consideration i'm new at this site... I'm looking to convert my 94 Defender which has seen many miles and much abuse into a 300 TDI (wouldn't turn my nose up at a 200, but they seem to be harder to find in good shape) Diesel Defender. Mostly for the offroad torque and of course the mileage wouldn't hurt either, as Fuel (both Petrol and Diesel) are about US $5 / gallon here. I hear its even worse in the UK, you have my sympathy. ANyway, i've looked over this site and a few others, but mostly this site. I am currently a displaced Amer
  11. Basically, ive got a petrol Series 3.. Am going to convert to 200tdi. Question being, how is best to connect up the return fuel pipe? Should i get the proper bit that screws in the tank, from a diesel, so it has the feed and return pipe? Or just drill and solder a fitting to the one i already have? Then it gets complicated... I've got dual fuel tanks. The feed goes through a diverter switch, connecting either tank, and the fuel gauge sender of the relevant tank. Are there any diverter switch that switch feed and return? Or will i need to get a seperate switch and link the two some how? Any
  12. I'm getting rolling on replacing the V8 and series gearbox in my 88" with an R380 and 300 TDi. I've got the old engine and gearbox out, and I've been wandering around with a tape measure: It seems they won't fit (easily). These are the options: Move the engine and box back far enough to fit everything in. The problem here is the transfer box lever ends up more or less in the middle seat and the gear change will be by the driver's elbow (not comfortable) Get the gearlevers in the right place, with the engine forward, but use a defender front end to create room for the radiator. This also so
  13. Apologies for posting this in international, but as it pertains to all flavours of 300TDi I didn't want to post in multiple forums (fora?) Current situation: 300TDi transplant into an 88". It's a tight squeeze, but I've managed to make the standard Defender downpipe fit without too much drama. I'm now experimenting with various ideas for the middle section. It looks like the standard Defender middle/exit will fit with a bit of jiggling - but it's £75 for the middle section with a silencer - I'm not sure I'm willing to spend that much! So, the question is: How noisy is a 300TDi without a sil
  14. Recent discussions about running veg oils and FIP pumps got me thinking, how do you field test a lift pump (mine is a 200 TDi Disco) to ensure that it still working and that the FIP isn't drawing the fuel from the tank?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy