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Found 12 results

  1. Hi All, Currently rebuilding a disco td5 LT230T with an Ashcrofts Master Rebuild Kit. I'm at the stage of putting things back together following the manual. I've constructed the centre diff (all the same parts apart from the copper dome washers and the fibre thrust washers. As soon as I start to tighten the bolts up to clamp the housing together, I'm no longer able to freely turn the gears inside using the front output shaft. It requires a bit of force. The manual suggests that if it's too loose I need to use thicker washers. It doesn't suggest what to do if it's too stiff. Having measured the thrust washers the old ones were 1.35mm where as the new ones at 1.05mm. If i pop the old ones back in everything turns smooth. Should I get replacement washers at 1.35mm or should 1.05mm be right? Thanks Thomas
  2. As per the title, what is this part and where does it bolt to? It is the silver painted part I have laying on the transfer box. Peter
  3. My Defender has been running really well recently and as such should have suspected something was going to go wrong soon! I have recently done a few long trips in it which is much easier now with the legs of a 1.22 transfer box. There have been no noises maifestering either. Anyway to cut a long story short, we were loaded up and on the way to get the Plymouth ferry to France and the transfer box starts howling like the gears are slightly out of alignment. It gets no worse and we get to our destination. Due to limited tools, I borrow a 1/2" drive ratchet and check the oil - fine with only a very slight dribble coming out and not discoloured or burnt. I let off the handbrake and feel the very slightest movement on the outer part of the brake drum on the rear prop, but felt ok to me. I grab the front prop and it is quite stiff to turn - normally slack for a slight bit until the play is taken up. Quick look at the prop joints which I greased before leaving and all else seems ok. The noise starts at 35 mph, does it only when putting the power on and in 3rd, 4th and 5th. Noise also there in low ratio. we are driving home on Thursday - probably at a slower rate than we are used to. If we make it home I will take the props off one at a time and have a look through the bottom cover, but does anyone have any other ideas? Toby
  4. Sally S


    Yes I am a woman so my knowledge of engines etc is limited. So i need some help. I have recently bought a Freelander td4 hse model, 2004 . On taking it to my local garage with some minor issues after purchase I have discovered that the propshaft has been removed and it is in fact a 2WD not a four! Yes I am wrangling over the garage about this and they are willing to send the prop up to my local garage to be refitted. They havent really given me a reasonable explanation as to why they removed it in the first place. However, i took the car into the garage yesterday as it had a vibration on it (i thought it might be a bulge in the tyre) howvere they have now advised its the transfer box. My question is: Has the removal of the prop shaft put more wear on the transfer box. Is it advisable to even remove it and is it safe to drive while there are issues with it and what is likely to happen if i continue to drive it in the meantime of hassling with the garage? Your answers will be much appreciated.
  5. So my Series IIA D suffix gearbox has transfer box with "A" letter stamped on it. Anyone know what this means? The other gearbox I have has no marks on transfer box whatsoever.
  6. 300tdi auto I have had a non working diff lock light for some time now and have finally gotten around to looking at it, the diff lock itself has been working fine though. So I checked the light and that was fine so I went to adjust the switch to see if that would do anything. Giving it a small twist and it sheared right off. Now I'm stuck with half a switch... Given that the switch is hollow I'm a little concerned about losing the transfer box fluid through the hole when running, guess I'll have to run it and see. But has anyone got any ideas about removing what's left of the switch? Cheers
  7. Hi All, Been sat day-dreaming a bit the last couple of days about different setups for land rover transfer box selector options (yup I really do that). Now if I had own way I would love to have the centre diff lock operated by some form of air actuator a bit like the t95 style option but perhaps compressor driven. However both of my trucks are t230 cases. I then thought perhaps a simpler option would be to just separate the standard 2 axis selector stick into to individual levers. For me this would be great for trialling as I really seem to struggle when toggling the centre lock in and out (perhaps its just short arms or something...). Anyway I thought perhaps some of you out there may have made your own solutions to this and would have pictures that you might be willing to share for some future "creative inspiration". Cheers!
  8. Where can I find the model/serial numbers on the gearbox and transfer box?
  9. ok so part way through my rebuild I sold my 1.4 lt230 transfer box in favour of a Discovery lt230 but I noticed its 1.22. I'm running a 4.6 v8. Question is have I gone in the wrong direction with the ratios?
  10. Hi All; this is my first post to this forum. I am trying to replace a transfer box in a 1993 Range Rover. I'm in flood ravaged Colorado and flatbeading her to the shop isn't practical. I have her on ramps and the job is half way done thanks to a great blog here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14601 This helped me figure out almost all the hard stuff. In the blog, he fixed a different year vehicle, so there were some differences. One is that on the 1993 model you only remove the center console to get to the access panel. On his, the driver seat cushion was removed. The other main difference is the clearance between the Gear Box and the Transfer Box. On mine, the case does not have anough room to slide off the main drive shaft. Here's what it looks like: Does Anyone know what I have to do to make room?
  11. Hi, a grinding/whiring noise has developed from the mid-rear end of my 90 but only happens when under engine braking. It does NOT happen when accellerating or braking or even heavy engine breaking. It mainly happens after you accelerate and then let off the throttle, staying in gear. It goes away as soon as you apply the brakes... I have left the handbrake off and tried to move the drum to check the transfer box rear output beaking and can feel no play. My Uj's in my rear prop are fine... And theres no play on the bearing going into the rear diff,,, Im thinking it may be the bearings of the rear diff may be worn?? Which could have now killed the diff's teeth? I think it could also be the pads rubbing on the drum of the handbrake? but then again the noise is only when engine breaking/let off after accellerating so maybe not poss..... Any thoughts are welcomed and very much appreciated! Cheers, Bear.
  12. I've got an odd question about the transfer box on the back of my ZF auto I'm taking out the 1.22:1 LT230 transfer box because it jumps out of low box and replacing with another 1.22:1 which happened to be right next to the truck. (came free with engine) A bungee cord has held it in low since the auto went in a few years back, so it can't be megga bad, but the dog set looks okay. I wondered what causes this, and therefore, is it worth keeping for spares? You see, I've got a 1.6:1 in the shed, and it really comes down to; drag transfer box up many steps because it might be usefull one day, or; move it short distance to my van and into work's metal skip it goes! Call it recycling/rubbish limitation And my other question is about the oil. I see a lot of folks saying 80/90 oil, so I'm guessing EP90 like series, but neither 1.22:1 box smells like EP80/90 ? Am I missing somthing here on the oil type? Thanks for saving my legs
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