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Found 11 results

  1. Hello! This is my first time posting here and would appreciate your feedback. I own a 2014 Evoque with CPO warranty. Last monday (seven days ago), i realtzed that the car was feeling very sluggish and would not accelerate as it should be. So i took it to the dealership and they told me that they would need to diagnose the vehicle. I asked them for a loaner vehicle for the time being and they informed me that they were out of any loaner vehicles and specifically because i had a walk in appointment it would be difficult for them to give me one. The advisor told me that he would let me know in a day or two as to what the issue is and we could proceed from there. I guess i was too nice and agreed to everything he had to say. He did not get back to me in 2 days and i tried to call the dealer ship but wasnt able to get through the right person and they told me they would get back but that did not happen. Cutting the chase, finally after 6 days the advisor got back to me and said that it seems like a turbo problem. He mentioned that he is trying to talk to the dealership to understand whether this is covered by CPO warranty or not. If it wasnt covered then it would cost me approximiately $6000 which is crazy expensive! Can you please advice me as to what i should do at this point in time? Thanks for your assistance in advance.
  2. Hi all, I finally connected a boost gauge to my ( discovery) 200 tdi in my 2a, at 60 in 5th ( LT77 on series 3 transfer case) I have 11psi and if I floor it the maximum reached is 16psi before it drops back , I would like to know if this is about right? Gauge is a cheap 2 bar Ebay job not a calibrated one , thanks Angus
  3. Hi, All, I'm looking for advice on a dysfunctional turbo, please. My vehicle is a 1991 110 CSW, originally with a 3.5 V8, but retro-fitted with a 300 Tdi. The turbo had been working perfectly normally for the last N years, but has now developed some kind of fault. I was going up a long hill in 4th gear at about 3000rpm and instead of the boost pressure topping out at 15 – 16psi, as normal, it continued right up to ~20psi, at which pressure I eased off on the throttle. Since then I have been unable to get above ~10psi of boost, regardless of load or rpm. Also, power is significantly down, smoke production is up, big time, and EGT is up. I've checked that the turbo discharge hoses, before and after the intercooler, are correctly fitted, and had not blown off, and I've run with the turbo inlet air hose dis-connected, to eliminate the inlet hose disbonding and collapsing under vacuum, but no change in engine performance. While the air inlet hose was disconnected I manually checked the turbo rotor. There was minimal axial play and no discernible radial play, so I assume that the bearings are OK. Use of a mirror didn't reveal any rotor blade damage or contact marks on the rotor casing. However, this visual inspection was a bit flaky! I'm now down to considering some sort of failure with the wastegate mechanism. When the boost pressure went way above normal I assume it could have been due to the wastegate not opening, and now that boost pressure will not build above 10psi the wastegate could be jammed open or the spring broken. It's not the easiest thing to see when fitted! Before I start removing bits can anybody confirm my diagnosis, or am I missing something? Could turbo performance be the culprit for low boost despite there being no discernible play on the rotor shaft? Is there a well known or recognised turbo failure mode? All advice and experiences will be gratefully received. Mike
  4. Hi there all. My 300tdi got some issue recently, been reading all the threads but none seem to match exactly.. The disco got 180000 on clock, but engine was from a range with less mileage. Has always run well over last 7years. Took it to spain couple of years ago, up the Sierra Nevada 3000m skiing. Was bloody cold! At that point I had semisynthetic GTX oil in to cope with the cold.. on leaving the Sierra a few days parked at sub zero C. It smoked blue like a smoke machine for a little while.. Downhill steep. Totally cleared in 10min. it has since been getting a little more smoke over time. Untill it completely covered the hole car in blue smoke!! Could see nothing at a junction. My workshop was round the corner.. Power was fine. More smoke when accelerating.. While running took oil filler cap off.. Lots of pressure. Little smoke. Checked cyclone was working fine.. Oil dripping out of exhaust joint after turbo. the next day I degreased engine and drove it into workshop. Definitely little smokey but not as badly as before, also no pressure at oil filler any more..? Turbo: took hoses off. Little play side to side but no fire and aft. So fine as per gencoe website. While running, no oil on cold side. removed manifolds: no oil in inlet manifold, none in exhaust.. Slight oily gasket at cylinder 4 Started engine without manifolds.. Engine cold, this is the next day.. oil started collecting in all four exhaust ports?!? The rear two it was puddling quite soon... I started to remove head.. I know now I should have done a compression test, but don't have a tester.. to my surprise the gasket seems to be in good condition..??!!? Still see crosshatch on bores. That's as far as I've got.. Btw first real engine work for me, apart from my scooter rebuild 20 years ago.. Will clean it all up today find a straight edge and check head flatness.. What next?? Could it be piston rings? Or valve seals/guides? How to check.. anything else..? All comments appreciated.. Well.. DD
  5. Hi Can I ask an easy question and get a quick answer? Hope so... One of the last checks I want to make on my 300 tdi is that the waste gate is opening. I'm planning to fit a pressure gauge so that I can see the boost and if necessary adjust the time that it occurs but I don't have that yet. I firstly thought I'd verify that the gate does in fact open and as I haven't any experience I don't know if my normal driving experience would show this - it probably would if I knew what to look for. So my quick Q is that I have removed the pipe to the FIP and stuck an airline into the fitting that also goes to the waste gate actuator but nothing happens. I have air compressor tank pressure of 2 or 3 Bar (I can have more) and I'm using a trigger blow gun thing with a short length of tube on it. Most of the air comes back out of the turbo intake (I have the in-feed pipe from the air filter off at the moment). Should I bang in enough air, put my hand over the turbo inlet or what? The engine is in the vehicle. (be gentle) Thanks
  6. Ok so a bit of background.. I got a tidy TD4, new shape freelander1 about 4 months back from a garage, quite high miles, but in great shape body wise. Had been running well upto about 1 month ago, when I noticed a little lag around 40-50mph & a bit of smoke, nothing serious, so though I'd do a bit of DIY, filter check etc. Did a bit of reading up on YouTube/Interweb etc & decided to do the air filter & crankcase filter at the same time. Noticed that there was a bit of oil to the side of the dipstick (indicating a blocked breather) & also a little about some of the hoses (possibly a split). Plumped for the BMW type crankcase as the one I took out was filthy. With the intention of replacing the hoses eventually with some nice silicon ones. The car ran much better for the next couple of weeks, no smoke, a little more pokey, happy days...... Yesterday, idling in a jam, my engine started to rev higher & higher, smoke pouring out of the exhaust, ignition off, still running (I papped myself, to say the least). Mr AA turns up, without checking anything other than the dipstick, he said those dreaded words "turbo's knackered" Few calls later at home, sitting depressed at the though of £,SSS of pounds to get my nice looking car back on the road, (I had so many plans for this motor). Now that I've calmed down, I need to know. I've got a spare run-around motor for work, but I want to get my Freelander back on the road within the next few months. Is buying reconditioned turbo from the internet a good move ? Can a novice fit one with a bit of researching ? Is it better shelling out £1,200 (cheapest I've been quoted) to get a garage to do it ? In addition to this, was Mr AA correct in presuming the turbo is dead, could I save it by replacing elements of the turbo, i.e. the hoses, seals etc. or do I take his word for it. Look forward to hearing your replies & I'll keep the thread updated with my progress. Steve.
  7. Hi, I have a '96 300tdi, its just blown the turbo to bits and there is a huge amount of oil in the intakes. I think it has entered to engine and hydrauliced it. My question is, what is the best way to get the oil out? The engine was working hard and suddenly made LOTS of smoke, I turned it off, but when I tried to start it again the engine tried to turn but wouldn't. don't think its seized, just full of oil. Help!
  8. Had this a while back, over a year ago for sure, but the wastegate spindle seems to be seized solid, performance seemed a bit lacklustre these last few weeks but put it down to barely being driven apart from groceries but a bit of a fettle with plumbing in the boost gauge to see whats going on showed almost nothing happening at all. done the usual, liberal dousing in wd40 slow steady applications of man sized pressure and zip all happening. whats next?
  9. Hi guys, Got a good question for you all. Is it worth it to install a dump valve on my new turbo? Now I know the valve lets off excess pressure so it's gotta help the life of it? But does it have any downsides?? Is it easy to put on and set up properly?
  10. Good day guys, My 2006 FL 1 td4 has developed a strange noise allmost like a Blow off valve when switching gears or letting off the gass under boost. Also when cruising on the highway, as soon as you go over 130km/h or up a hill at about 120km/h it goes into limp mode with the CEL on, but as soon as speed drops, it goes out of limp and the CEL goes off. I do not know if this is related to each other, and I dont have the cash at the moment to take it to the stealers to look for fault codes. I have replaced all the vacuum hoses, and from what I can see, the egr valve is clean. car has been serviced and all filters changed(originally though the limp was due to a blocked filter). I am going on a road trip on friday, so I urgently need to get this sorted out, as driving mountain passes with a car that keeps going into limp is no fun at all. If anyone has had simular problems or knows where I can look, please give me advice! thank you in advance guys!
  11. Does anyone know where to get an 02 td4 freelander turbo from?
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