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  1. Hi, I’m struggling with a friends series v8 conversion , I’ve been chasing an oil leak which everyone thought was from the power steering , but I have just seen where it’s coming from, this is looking upwards and there is a hole next to the sump bolts (between the webs ) that oil spits out of, any ideas why ? Thanks Angus
  2. Hi, I’m trying to sort out a friend’s Rover V8 powered series 2a and can’t get the Smith’s oil pressure gauge to work , the sender will not come out without taking the engine mount off , I would like to know which one I need to buy to replace it ? Thanks Angus
  3. In these testing times, does anyone know who would be good for service kits / rebuild parts for my SU Carbs? (HiF 44 for 3.5L V8) thanks.
  4. Wikipedia "Rover v8" page suggests several EFI systems: " Bosch L-Jetronic (7–8 years, aka Lucas 4CU Flapper), then Hitachi Hotwire (5 years, aka Lucas 14CUX), then the GEMS system (many years) and finally Bosch Motronics for 2 years " Which of them were used on RRC? Which is most reliable and/or which one to avoid? Regards, Ivan.
  5. Hello all! Well, my gearbox broke, so a great excuse for a rebuild thread. It's in a 109 with a 3.9 on carbs, has been fine if a little noisy (they're notorious for this as they use ball bearings rather than tapered roller) but finally gave up as I was towing a newly bought Sankey back from Tewkesbury. To cut a long story short, I as bumbling along on the A417 when I heard a little "ping" noise. You know, that kind that really make you nervous and you spend a minute wondering if it's just a stone flung from the tyre? Then another and the a nasty, heavy clattering noise from the gearbox. I was in fourth at the time, and still driving fine despite the noise. Pulled over, transfer in neutral, run through the gears. I thought the layshaft rear bearing might have collapsed, but it turns out fifth has popped off its retention ring and was flapping about in the breeze. Pics of that will follow when do my actual post-mortem of that box - I ended up rebuilding my spare. The spare is interesting. On first inspection, it looked great inside - clean as a whistle. But the input shaft had a little more play than I'd have liked, so I took the front housing off to find this: The cage has busted clean through the spot welds and come apart. Not ideal, so apart it came. I have a video of this, which will need some editing before it goes up as it's quite long! In order to disassemble the solid case, you have to make up some puller tools. Main and input shaft bearings are press fit into both the housings and onto the shaft, and being ball bearings you can't separate the inner and outer track like a taper roller. So a few bits of box section and a little machining later: I also made up the tool required to press the rear bearing along with the case onto the output shaft. The official tool is vaguely tube shaped and supposed to engage on the rear face of the inner bearing track, picking up on an internal thread in the end of the output shaft. I couldn't find a bolt to match, and didn't like the sound of this anyway, so I went a slightly different way: The collet picks up on the radius of the output splines and gets retained by the outside taper into a collar, just like valve spring collets. No chance of it slipping off or stripping threads here! You'll see the finished article in action later. After some cleaning measuring and faffing about I won't bore you with (the manual covers this far better than I can), it's time to reassemble. I did have some remedial work to do on the iron front housing that contains the oil pump and takes the thrust load of both front bearings. As you can see, there's a few thou of fretting there, and it's not even. It's too shallow to maching, so the best solution is to rake out the surface plate and get lapping: A half hour later: Much better. Now it can be assembled with new seals, pump, oil feed ring and O-ring: Next up is pressing the bearings into the front plate and main case. No pics as it's pretty banal. I do with I'd taken some photos of the bearings from Ashcroft, though. They've used different style -and longer lasting - bearings that are the right width and ID, but too small on the OD so they're pressed into a machined collar. Lovely work and fitted tighter than the proverbial. Input shaft goes in, baulk rings and bearing on: Preassembled mainshaft goes on, layshaft and gasket get put in place: The front layshaft bearing is cylindrical roller bearing, the outer of which gets pressed in sitting 5mm proud of its final position to make fitting easier. Reverse gear gets fitted, but retained temporarily by a screwdriver This allows it to be wiggled around the layshaft as the main case is fitted. Spot the deliberate mistake; I fitted it backwards and realised just after I took the pic: Main case goes on. There are supposed to be guide pins, but these would have interfered with my stand: Now the home made special tool goes on: And the whole lot gets pressed together by winding the two nuts up against the plate: The tool worked like a charm. The gearbox is now taken off the stand and the layshaft front bearing gets tapped home, then the front housing goes on with a fresh gasket: Torque to spec and we're done. You can see the front bearing plate is temporarily retained with a couple of bolts and spacers: Now work starts on fifth gear. Both my boxes has sheared the pin in the synchro hub that drives the plate slipper pad retaining plate and output seal collar. Dave Ashcroft was kind enougb to supply an updated part with a 5mm pin, rather thin the 3mm, but I couldn't hunt down or didn't want to pay for the plate, pin or collar to match.... The plate was worn from spinning against the hardened hub and collar due to the sheared pin, so this was scrap. The fit on the shaft was also a frankfurter down an alleyway - not acceptable. A 3mm bit of plate got turned up, outside first: Then inside: And fits snugly: Now for the pin hole. I could have measured, but it was simpler to use the pin as a punch. Anneal, the grind a piece of tool steel with a point, fit to hub, give plate a tap against it to leave a punch mark: Check and drill: Lovely. Grind the pin flat to remove the point and massage the keyway in the collar to suit: The angle grinder is too cumbersome for this operation, so I made an arbor for an old slitting disk to fit into the die grinder. A much more delicate tool: Polish up the seal collar on the lathe: And it all fits together beautifully: Because the plate is slightly thicker, a new "selective washer" needs to be made to give the right clearance against the retaining clip. This is the clip the had let go and caused my breakdown, so worth getting it cock on: At the time of writing, I'm still waiting for a new clip. These should, under now account, be re-used. Having got all that ready, attention turns to the layshaft. As you can see, a spacer is used to retain it in lieu or fifth. This allows the bearing retainer plate to be fitted. Two problems here: Firstly, it's fretted like the front housing. Second, it doesn't match the curve of the smaller main bearing OD.... It's not special steel, so I decided to build up with weld; both to eliminate the wear, and to add some extra to engage fully with the bearing outer track: Fitted, spacer removed, fifth fitted, new stake nut torqued to 160 lb ft. I quick gripped the box to the bench to do this: Staked with a round punch: The fifth selector assembly retains the top of the bearing too, and this had the same issues as the other plate: Spot the *cough* deliberate *cough* mistake: I fitted the selector ring the wrong way round. Easily rectified: As the 1st/2nd selector fork is steel, and the collar lands are quite skinny, it had suffered from wear. I built up with some silicone bronze and linished back until it was flush with the steel again. I didn't take enough pics In go the selector forks, interlocks, rods and retaining roll pins. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves: The rest is just a case of bolting covers on, which was a bit too banal for taking pictures! Oh, apart from getting the reverse gate spring back on: I hope it's interesting, anyway. I'll make the special tools are available for rent in return for a donation to the forum fund. It's really not too bad a job, and I actually really enjoyed it. For reference, a 109 with a sankey fits on large recovery lorry. RAC were really good about it - no problem at all. /Ian
  6. Hi guys, I am putting together a wingtop entry snorkel that enters the engine bay through the blanking plate on the drivers side that mirrors the heater intake. Looking at choices of routing once through the wing I am fairly restricted, I have a brake servo and pipes in the way and the coolant expansion tank too (this is in a old 90 which started as a 2.25 petrol, now a v8). Does anyone have pictures of how the official military gear made the connection from airbox to wingtop? Or the mantec one that used to be in production? There are plenty of pics on the web for the external piping, but none in the engine bay. Thanks!
  7. I found on the net a fitting kit to put a V8 in a series 3 that included a bell housing adapter, engine mounts to fit it without cutting and welding the new galv, chassis ,spigot bush etc. I contacted the company M D Engineering but unfortunately they no longer make that kit. Anyone know another supplier please?
  8. Hi I have a series one with a V8 and use the standard series 3 gearbox, my question is has any one managed to fit an Auto box ? If so, which box was used and what conversion ring and bell housing was used. Also was did you have to shorten your prop. Thnaks G
  9. New to this site building a series 3 V8 taken a while getting close to road worthy try to put up a test pic
  10. Have you switched a 300i or 200i engine for a V8 Range Rover/Disco engine on your old Discovery? If so are there any technical issues I should be aware of - especially if they will cost money? It would probably be best for me to swap my 300i for another 300 or 200 for speed, just to get on the road again, but I wanted to see how easy a V8 swap is, as the government will ban me from the city soon if I use diesel. Oh the reason for the swap is the head blew for the second time and the price of another used engine is similar to a new head.
  11. Hello, I have recently found a an early LHD Suffix B Range Rover which I intend to buy and restore. I have been checking it's VIN and and engine number to make sure that it's from that period but they are puzzling me. 1) VIN - 35802759B I have checked on range-rover-classic.com and it says that LHD Suffix B cars that were exported have VINs starting from 358-03228 to -05837. Why does mine start at 358-02? I checked the Suffix A numbers and they begin from 358-00746 to -03227. Could it be a Suffix A? 2) Engine Number - 35509970B w/ 8.5:1CR I'v been searching the engine number directories online and the only engine that I can find with a 8.5:1 CR was used on Rover P6 3500 autos, however the engine number suggests that it is from a Range Rover. Was a distinction made between those blocks designated for the P6 and those for the Range Rover at that time or could it have been that Range Rover blocks were fitted as standard into the P6? Anyone have any thoughts? I just want to make sure that numbers match before I make the purchase. Thanks! Manolis
  12. I have a P38 that I am having loads of trouble with. When it has run it was ok, but intermittent. The more I have tried to fix it the worse it has got. It now has no spark and it won't talk to hawkeye. We tried a recoded "unlocked" Ecu but it has made no difference. It's had new plugs, new crack sensor, new llamas sensors, new coil pack. It turns over, there's fuel pressure in the rail. We tied buzzing through the wiring loom , even changed the OBD connector, cleaned the bcem connectors, etc etc. Nothing! Still no hawkeye cons and no spark. Any ideas? It's a '95 4.0 V8 with the GEMS ecu
  13. Is there a replacement PSC steering pump that fits a GEMS 4.6 V8 without modification? Current steering pump went bust and thought of replacing with a higher pressure pump as got a hydraulic RAM assist. thanks, bob
  14. Thought I'd add my success story here, albeit not an LR4x4 but has the benefit of this forum - thanks to Nigel and the wealth of information from many contributors on this forum. I've got an Opel Manta (GT/E) coupe that was built by a previous owner as a rally car for tarmac stage rallying, with a Rover V8 engine fitted into it. The donor for that engine would have been the Rover SD1 3500, single plenum 'flapper' Lucas injection system, distributor, etc. Although it worked fairly well, the engine was exhibiting common failings that arise with that factory setup over time: * Poor idle control, especially hot or when electric fan kicks in * Flat spots, worst when using wide-open throttle from low revs; engine would bog down a lot before chucking the car up the road * Misfiring some of the time; hard to pin down the cause even when new coil, plugs and other parts changed Rather than continuing to replace various parts, chasing common problems, I went for the recommendation of fitting MegaSquirt engine management. I bought a full kit of parts from HFH at http://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/ms_3-5_etc.php, including new top-end parts to replace 'flapper' injection components with later 'hotwire' manifold, plenum and parts, as well as trigger wheel, sensor, EDIS-8 and Ford coil packs, and an MS1 ECU pre-loaded with an MSQ map for a standard 3.5 litre RV8 engine. A few differences found along the way where the Rover V8 injection differs slightly between the SD1 saloon and the Range Rover 'Classic' 3.5 v-belt engine but nothing insurmountable. For reference, these differences are: * Injectors; the nose on the bottom of the SD1 injector is of a different size and design to other RV8 injectors - use injectors from the hotwire, or later, setup * Fuel pressure regulator; there are a number of different fuel rails, use whatever seems suitable for your own installation * Crankshaft pulley; there are less parts on the SD1 crankshaft pulley - I do not have power steering so even easier to remove unwanted pulley and fit the trigger wheel * Crank sensor mount; as the crankshaft pulley differs, the bracket provided in the Megasquirt-V8 kit does not put the sensor in line with the trigger wheel - easy enough to space out differently or create a new bracket * Heater matrix feed pipe; on SD1 it is from a pipe at back of the thermostat housing, below the inlet manifold - on the other V8s, from some other pipework (don't yet know where but will probably use manifold heater supply when I eventually plumb in my heater) * Heater matrix return pipe; on SD1 it goes below the inlet manifold, not present on the RR manifold but can be bolted in place with original SD1 pipe and hose Pleased to say that the conversion from flapper to hotwire injection parts was basically easy enough, and that the MegaSquirt setup worked straight off, as per Nigel's instructions. Now, the engine starts reliably whether hot or cold, full throttle is usable from minimal revs, no misfiring evident at all and the engine seems much happier to shoot through the rev range. I still need to do some fine tuning and a before-and-after rolling road power run for comparison purposes to get an idea of how different the power curves, and peaks, may be as a result of the upgrade. I do have a few other things to do for the installation, hence occasional questions to be posted in here. Hope you don't mind the non-LR input :-)
  15. Good Morning. I noticed something odd with my Disco 1 this morning on the way in to work and possibly last time it was driven. It seems to be running odd upto about 3000rpm, I want to say it feels likes its not firing on all cylinders but I'm not sure that is what is happening as it doesn't feel rough enough. Get the revs past 3000 and it is as smooth as normal but below that it is almost hesitant and seems a bit down on power and lumpy (but a smooth lumpyness if that makes sense). My drive in this morning was mainly in slow traffic and under 6 miles so not really the ideal conditions but it did certainly feel different to normal. It was no different on petrol or PLG. 500 miles ago I had to replace the valley gasket due to a leak and it had been running fine before that and since until this raised its head. Where should I start investigating? Thanks
  16. I haven't found the info i need between thousand of read pages.. so i just though of posting this here. any help would be greatly aprecciated. so i just got lucky, and a friend was tossing his td5 r380 gearbox, which obviously i wasnt going to let that happen. So i had an old lt77 suffix E which has some synchro problems. Is the input shaft from the lt77 interchangeable with the r380 one? i know the td5 r380 input shaft measures 22mm ish diameter and a bout 350 mm ish long, (measured from the front face of the 4th gear pinion) I have acces to a lathe and can modify the input shaft if needed. What are the exact measures im looking for?? what about the bell housing? could i use the lt77 one?
  17. Anyone know what the fitting/thread is on the end of a hot wire fuel rail. Looks like its a nut and olive on the rail, but not sure what needs to go on the end of the hose. Was thinking of cutting the nut off and just using a hose clip, but would prefer a neater solution Thanks
  18. After a bit of advice regarding viscous fans, I've seen lots of threads saying about the removal of the fans but none about actually re-fitting a new one, well to me anyway. I've absoutley no idea about them, I know how they work in theory, but don't really have any practical experience with them. From what I can gather, they appear to fit on a threaded bar on the end of the water pump? There seems to be various types of (3.5 V8) water pumps, some which allow for fan fitting, others which don't. Unfortunately i'm not around the car at the moment, but if for instance my water pump did not allow for fitting of a fan, I assume the only way to rectify this would be to change the entire water pump? So, assuming what I have got so far is correct, what is the actual part that I require. Is is a case of simply threading something on such as : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Viscous-Fan-1994-Range-Rover-3-9-V8-Automatic-/371587807436?hash=item56845bf8cc:g:oFgAAOSwwpdW-67R And then, job sorted? I assume not, as that seems far to simple! Input very much welcome. Further more, another thread I have running here; http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=97524&page=2 Basically, I have a V8, series rad, and electric fan infront of rad pushing air through.. I can just about squeeze a electric fan behind the rad to pull air though, but I'm also thinking I could maybe get a viscous fan in there and shift a hell of a lot more air!
  19. I have a 1990 v8 3.9 efi. All was fine until I lost cylinder 4 and 6. I took it to a mechanic and the top gasket was blown. Apparently it was due to irregular firing from the distributor. I've had the engine redone and have recently found a new distributor. The problem is that it now does not fire at all. the distributor that was originally in the motor had an amplifier that plugged directly onto the distributor and the new distributor has two wires coming out to a plug that has another two wires coming out. We have plugged the amplifier on to the system, but there is no fire at all. the new dissy is a 35dm8. I don't know what we are missing. for some reason there is no spark from the coil.
  20. Hi All, Was looking for some advice... I recently took a gamble and purchased a cheap 4.6L V8 petrol engine which I believe came from a P38 Rangey. The question is will it go in my 1990 defender 90 and how much modification will be required. I also have no idea about gearboxes etc. My defender currently has a LT77 gearbox with a 200tdi disco engine in but im also concerned about propshaft sizes whether a standard one will fit or not. I basically need an exact list of all the items I need. Another obstacle I have is I have no idea if the engine actually runs or not and as I don't own/work in a garge I am not sure how I can find this out. As you can probably tell im a bit of a novice at this but there is only one way to learn! Any ideas/advice given would be greatly appreciated.
  21. What would be the best choice / supplier to supply Electric Radiator Fan / Fans in a V8 Defender 110 ? Cheers
  22. Hi all I am just in the rebuild stages on my 1984 3.5 v8 range rover classic which I think is a sd1 engine. I seem to have these strange pipes that run down the sides of each cylinder head and screw into the top of the exhaust manifold ports. I think they are something to do with emissions possibly for the American market? However the pipes on my engine are completely shot and I can't seem to find any anywhere. Does anyone know where to get them from? what they are? And can I cap them off at all if I can't get hold of the tubes? Surely someone else has had this dilemma before?! Thanks in advance.
  23. Anybody able to advise me where I can get a rev Counter suitable for a std V8, ideally with a range suited to a Std V8 - so 0 to 6000 RPM I guess, 52mm diameter and wouldnt look out of plsce in a 1989 110 binnacle? thanks
  24. Hi everyone 1st post for me, but have been stalking about on here for snippets of info for years. Thanks to you all I've kept my old landy running for the last 8 years. I have a project under way to swap my 3.5 weber equipped v8 for a 4.6 bosch from a p38, I'm also keen to use the power steering from the p38. Anyone who has done this in the past and has any tips please advise? I'm assuming that the standard exhaust manifolds from the p38 won't fit and that the standard 3.5 will be too small? I'm thinking of fitting a pair of these http://stores.spencerashley.com/rover-v8-diy-421-exhaust-manifold-kit-to-suit-kitcar-hot-rod/ in the 2.5" flavour, and then sticking a td5 exhaust to it? Am also thinking that in order to make the power steering upgrade as painless as possible I'll keep the serp front end and get a mega jolt igition setup. I know that you might well recommend going the full mega squirt package (I'm planning on phoning Nige when i get back from work!) but my problem is the vehicle is registered in France and they are a bit strict on changing things under the bonnet.. So to start with i'll stick with the weber until i can work out how to legally put the efi back on. I am also replacing both foot wells whilst the engine is out, so as i mentioned anyone who has done this and has any input to share please do, Thanks in advance, Sean.
  25. Hi everyone, I was trying to measure the dog nit size but the pulley and mud guard make it impossible for the caliber to reach. Anyone know what size it is?
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