Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'welding'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • The Lounge
    • International Forum
    • Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
    • Getting out and about
    • Competing in Land Rovers
    • Tools and Fabrication
    • The Video Shack
  • Tech Archive
    • Land Rover Technical Archive
    • Requests for Part Numbers
  • Vehicles
    • Series Forum
    • Defender Forum
    • Freelander Forum
    • Discovery Forum
    • Range Rover Forum
    • Military Forum
    • Evoque Forum


There are no results to display.


  • LR90's Blog
  • geoffbeaumont's Blog
  • My 1991 RRC 4.0 V8
  • Doublecab Happenings

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Found 5 results

  1. Time for a Tools and Fab build thread! I've been busy whilst waiting for a machining favour to be able to continue the suspension build.... I also kind of ran out of space with the purchases in the next paragraph. Back last year, I heard Halfords were discontinuing their black 'industrial' range of tool chests and changing the design. Cue a mad scramble to get some more boxes ordered to match the pair of bottom chests I already owned. I've always had two of the bottom chests as I like the deep drawer, the upper of the deep ones being my socket drawer with everything stood up. In an ideal world I think I would have gone for another pair of bottom chests to go with the plan that follows, but I couldn't get hold of them. So I ordered two mid section drawers and two top chests.That's the tools bit covered.... but how is this a fabrication thread I hear you say! Well for those that don't know, the set of three Halfords chests are pretty damn tall when they're all together. Even with my 6'3" standing, a bit on the tall side as I want my sockets to be in the top sections as I'm pushing the drawer loadings a bit with the setup now. After a little bit of design time I ended up with this: I designed the step frame to be able to keep the boxes really close to each other and drop them as low as possible. The clearance under the centre of the main chassis is only 25mm. If I find I need to move the trolley far I can always lift it with the forklift. I can also shim the trolley upwards if I find I move it about and it catches the workshop floor. I didn't originally have the two little end cupboards on there. But I thought that it would be good to make use of the space at each end. Not sure exactly what I'll use them for yet. I'll put a door on the front of each one at some point, going to see what I end up using them for first as I can always do a drawer instead. The design is a little elaborate and over engineered, but I've built it to last forever and the potential total weight of the toolboxes and their maximum draw loadings brings it to around 1100Kg . Trolley is finished (minus powder coating) as I type this, but I'll post this in a few hits as I get time. I also need to apologise for the awful quality of the first half of the pictures... my old phone had a great camera but was hindered by the Ross-proof case covering the lense. I've been a bit brave with new phone and not got quite such a bomb/workshop proof case.
  2. Hi all, I have a small, rusted hole in the bulkhead, just to the inside of one of the bonnet hinges. I was going to weld it initially, but I can no longer get hold of a mig, so I'm coming up with alternative suggestions... I'm currently looking at Evo-Stik's hard & fast metal epoxy putty, and my plan is to strip all the paint and rusty metal off, apply an anti-rust solution (any recommendations?), allow that to dry, then fill the entire hole with the epoxy putty (and thereby hopefully prevent it from coming away at the edges). Conveniently enough, my 90 matches smooth white Hammerite perfectly, so I was then going to paint over the putty with Hammerite. If it doesn't work out, I'll just have to get it welded in the future, but can anyone see any problems with my current plan? I'd appreciate any advice you can give me! Cheers, Will P.S. I also have a reasonably large dent in one of the wheel arches. Any tips on getting dents out?
  3. So after deciding on a whim to learn how to draw I bought myself a laptop I resented spending money on a dull, non-Land Rover non-tool purchase so decided to make it up to myself with a new toy A new 4.5" grinder, 720watt slim body Makita, on sale at toolstop. We were getting short on grinders since the last B&Q own brand 5quid special died after a short and unhappy life on wire wheel duty I try to buy bosch where possible and bought a couple of he old model industrial blue ones when they were on offer at screwfix in the summer, but you can never have too many grinders and I thought the Makita was worth a punt Anyway, there was no way I was gonna spend £7 on postage when a few more quid would get me over the free shipping threshold, so I ended up with another grinder A cheapo Fern 750watt 4.5", Its probably carp, but it'll run a strip and clean disc well enough Having two new grinders made me feel better, but I needed them anyway, they weren't much consolation, and I'd been thinking for some time about getting an AC TIG set for Aluminium. I read a few reviews, watched doubleboosts videos on youtube and made up my mind to get an R-Tech TIG161 Sure its no Miller or Kempi, but the reviews are very positive and the UK based support and warranty are reassuring. I cant wait to get started!
  4. so I finally got around to getting some 0.6mm sheet and today I have removed the wings ready for discing out to solid metal and shining up for welding. my question is should I overlap weld with the new metal in the wheel arch or in the engine bay, presume welding upside down is not easy?
  5. Hi there, my N reg 300Tdi failed its MOT earlier in the year on the rear body mountings being rusted. I took some photo's and then fixed them. Paddocks provided new mounts at a very reasonable price. The mounts were of good material and have enough overlap to enable them to be welded to any rusty cross member. It took only a few minutes to knock em off, but the bumper has to come off to get them back on, this took some time, and of course welding the mouse holes in the rear cross member too. Overall about 5 hours work.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy