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Found 6 results

  1. Hi Folks, Been looking into the topic of wheel studs for use with Wolf wheels, in particular stud lengths. (Defender 110 CSW 1996 300 Tdi) Not a new topic and appreciate large numbers of folk use standard length studs with no reported issues. Not wanting to stir that debate - well maybe a little. However, came across these today - Zeus manufactured studs coming in at 56mm. Liking the look of the Zeus stubs as the FRC7577 extended studs look as though they will be way too long. http://www.zeus.uk.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=11x Has anybody had any experience of using them? Simon...
  2. Hi I hope someone with more experience can help me out. I have a 1972 Series 3 SWB Land Rover. Last week I noticed when I got to around 30mph the steering wheel would start shaking and juddering in my hands. Quite a scary thing to experience really and it doesn't give much confidence that your car is safe! I already knew from the last MOT on just an advisory that there was some play in my driver's side wheel bearing, so I thought it must be a sign that I'd gone too long and it needed tightening up. I already have a spare wheel bearing if it needs replacing, but once I'd jacked up the car and got the spring hanger on an axle side the "play" wasn't really what I expected. There was a little left to right (3 and 9) but the top to bottom (12 and 6) was more of a clonk or knock. So I tightened up the wheel bearing rather than taking everything out just to see if it would get rid of the play and the knock movement. Tightening it up completely removed the side to side (3 and 9) play. But the up and down knock or movement is still there and quite significant. The wheel seems to rotate and spin smoothly and I can't hear any nasty noises, maybe just a touch of brake drag but it seems smooth. Part of the confusion for me is that reading online some people say 3 and 9 is usually wheel bearing and others say it is swivel bearings. While others say 12 and 6 is more likely wheel bearings and others say is is swivel! When looking at the axle from the front of the car while knocking or moving the wheel up and down I can see the whole drive train ( if that's the right word for it ) moving. The play doesn't appear to be in the hub or at the wheel itself. So now I'm thinking swivel bearings, but are these not for side to side and steering action rather than up and down?
  3. Hi, I'm thinking about replacing the steering wheel on my 1989 One Ten and I'm looking for some advice/opinions on Boss & wheel diameter please. I currently have a 16" diameter wheel and 36 spline (17mm ish) shaft. Firstly the Boss. Any recommendations? I assume they come with indicator cancelling pins and I would like a fairly short one so it doesn't bring the wheel any closer to my getting-larger-stomach. Is there a big difference between them or are they all pretty much the same? Would this Raptor 4x4 one fit the most common wheel makes that are available? Secondly, What diameter wheel have you fitted and how do you find it? Would a 14" feel too small after years with a 16" or what about a 15"? Or did you replace yours with a 16"? Opinions please! Thanks, Heds
  4. I have alloy wheels on my Disco 2, and the nuts have corroded under the caps, meaning that I can't get my impact socket on them without a struggle. (I have to use a rattle-gun to undo my wheelnuts since I am not as strong as I used to be). I don't particularly want to replace them with the same so... A while ago I found some wheelnuts for sale on ebay that were intended as replacements for the standard alloy-wheel nuts with the silly cap thing, but were solid machined steel, but now I can't find them. Can anyone help please? I guess as an alternative I could buy the normal ones and boil them in Linklife before use - that should stop them corroding
  5. hi, i just wondered if the half shaft seals on a Salisbury axle are the same as a rover axle??? many thanks,ben
  6. I have just been messing around with a set of Volvo (c303) rims. I was needing beadlocks as have been knocking tyres off every time I'm out. So for now I have went for some external beadlocks, weld on type. 1st issue being there was no way they'd fit. I am running 37x13.5R16 mudzillas. What I have done is get some 40x6 flat bar rolled to the circumference of my rims welded that on then welded the beadlocks on. This takes the 7" rim up to 9.5" and gives me some offset. I had no issues before with the mudzillas on standard rims but now with the beadlockers. I can't keep my truck in a straight line after I hit 40mph. I used to be able to cruise at 70mph with no issues. I am aware that beadlocks are not road legal however I do need to be able to pull up to road speeds and keep control of the truck. The severe shudder/ wobble I am now getting is going to cause major wear to track rod ends, swivel pins etc etc. How can I get these to run in a smooth fashion again with my lockers fitted.....??? Thanks in advance...
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