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  1. Hello Gentlemen, The rear quarter of my 1999 110 TD5 was rotten so I cut it off and welded on a new one. Prior to the cutting and welding I had removed the wiring bundle from inside the right hand chassis rail for protection by pulling it through from front to rear. But stupidly I then removed the rope I had pulled through with it. I now have to find a way to pull the cabling back through the chassis. So far I've been trying to feed in form the front firstly soft and then high tensile fencing wire with small loops on the end in an effort to reach the rear so that I can attach a rope and then pull the cabling through. But I keep hitting internal obstructions (plus a heap of rust... more welding to come...) which I can't seem to get past. I have yet to try feeding from the rear to the front over the main bend (which I'm about to have a go at) but I wondered if anyone has experience of this? Perhaps the things sparkies use to feed wires through house walls/floors? Or even some means of leaving the cabling outside of the chassis... if advisable? Many thanks.
  2. I am putting my 110 CSW together and want to ask where do I connect the towbar wiring loom to the main loom. In the space up in the rear station wagon body or in the wheel well behind where the rubber divider goes? I will post pictures tomorrow when at the barn.
  3. recently bought a landrover discovery (td5) 1999 all serviced up and ready to go, but when i put the flasher relays in the fuse box located under the steering wheel. even if the engine is turned on or off the hazards come on. there is literraly no control from the button or from the stalk. the only way to turn them off was by talking the relays out. all fuses checked had all the plugs behind the passenger split and checked for corrosion, and that have any sort of corrosion I've cut and joined round the plug. any help at all will be appreciated
  4. I am looking to fit an additional "accessory socket" (aka cig-lighter socket or cigar-lighter socket if you are posh) in the rear of my D2. I have a voltage sensing relay and an inline fuse, so the always on bit shouldn't cause issues. Does anyone know of a convenient place where I can find something to tap into within the cabin? I have had a look at the cabin fuse box, but there don't appear to be any spare live fused supplies...
  5. Hi Folks, Defender 1997 300Tdi Looking to do a wiring mod so that the current draw for the headlamps is not routed through the column switch, i.e. the classic headlight upgrade. My intention is to do this in a way that does not cut into or alter the existing wiring loom. The attached image is a proposal. Looking for some feedback. Essentially the idea is to put a pair of relays (one for low and high beams) in each of the wings. Power for the headlights coming directly from the battery through the relay (3mm cable), fused in the battery box. In this way, both sets of lamps on each side of the vehicle are still independent. Looks like it is possible to source H4 socket and bulb connectors so should be straight forward to wire up. Run the new cables in some convoluted conduit. Thoughts? Many Thanks, Simon...
  6. My 1994 defender was a hard top and acquired a county type roof along the way. Full headlining sunroof etc. Interior light has two wires that were tucked into the headlining. Trying to make it work on the door switch. Purple wire I've connected to a supply and the light is earthed by one of the mounting bolts so I can switch the light on manually. How does the plunger switch work with a single wire? Putting a meter probe on the blade on the plunger gives no continuity with body. I thought it may have been switched on return through the body but apparently not. What next please?
  7. Ive studied the various threads and about the above but not seen a similar fault. Every 3-5 years I have to replace my ignition switch/lock . Its a 1990 v8, all the circuit diags show a wire from the ignition to the fuse box then to the heater motor. On all the failed ignition switches its this terminal that appears to melt, the back of the switch gets all loose and wobbly then you have to change it. The wire itself to the fuse box seems pretty thin gauge, though it never blows the fuse the fuse itself is also a touch on the brown singed looking side. Anyone else seen this fault, I'm tempted to run a new wire in to the fuse box from a better switched feed.
  8. hello everyone reading this right I have started a bit of a project and I'm after a bit of advice.? under the drivers seat I have a black wabco ecu, after some googling I think this is the abs ecu. on each wheel I have hub speed sensors but I cant seem to find a abs module/pump. my questions are: has someone simply removed the pump ?/ or if this is the normal set up what influence does this have on the car if the spedo head is supplied by the gearbox output sensor? thanks!
  9. Hi all! I know this has been covered, but i can't find anything thats exact. I brought a 200tdi back to the states when i was stationed in the UK, and have since been doing a 13 month re build. Currently i want to install ONLY A SPEEDO form a td5 (not the whole instrument pack). For the life of me, i can't find data on just doing that; everything talks mostly about doing the whole thing. I know that i need the transducer, 3 core wire, and the speedo. I would rather not butcher up a td5 wire harness for this, so what can i do with the items mentioned? Thanks guys! Trying to spread the defender love back here in the lower 48! Andy
  10. Hi all, im sure this has been covered but i cant find the answer im looking for. My 02 td5 90 brake lights have stopped working. The tail light parts work when the lights are turned on but when i press the brake pedal they dont brighten up as the should the just go off altogether. If i dont have the lights on and brake nothing happens. So bulbs look fine, fuse fine. So would it be the brake switch? I cant seem to licate the switch, does anyone have a photo to help me find it? Or is there a relay for the brake lights? Many thanks in advance Joe
  11. I tried starting my Land Rover 90 2.5 NA Ex-MOD after a winter in a cold damp garage. Turned the key to heat the glow plugs for more than 20 seconds, a smell of acrid burning and smoke started to come out behind the instrument panel. The car started but the orange light for the glow plugs does not go out and the burning behind the panel continues. Switched off the engine. Any thoughts before I remove the instrument panel?
  12. Hi, We recently bought a 1999 Freelander 2nd hand from a couple down the road. After the freezing cold night on Sunday, we went to drive to the shops and found that the car wouldn't start. The engine cranked slowly and the injector clicked. Suspecting it was a low battery, we attempted to bump-start the car to no avail (though we probably didn't do it right anyway). Yesterday we called out breakdown and the lad attempted to jump-start the car, which also failed. He suspected a dodgy fuel pump, and (with the jump-starter still connected) after kicking the fuel tank the car started once but failed on subsequent attempts. We added 10L of fuel last night, just in case, but this afternoon the car failed to start again, and the battery seems to be almost out too as lights pulse when the engine cranks over. After doing some searching on the internet I found a YouTube video detailing how to replace the fuel pump & sender unit. Now here's the fun part... Under the under-seat mats in the rear of the car, we discovered dodgy wiring and a VERY rusty pump cover. I've put together a huge collection of images here. Would any of you kind souls be willing to take up the mats in your Freelander and show us what it's supposed to look like under there? Also, do you have any ideas about what could be causing the issue (and how to rectify it)? Sam
  13. Hi all I know this subject has been done to death before so please don't jump down my throat... I have spent all afternoon looking on forums, looking at vehicle, looking again on forums, looking at - well you get the idea. So the vehicle, a '91 200 TDI went into the barn a few months ago for a quick welding job... Coming back together now and I can't wait to get back out there, but the headlights don't work. I have flash but no hi/lo headlights. The blue wire from the sidelights/headlights switch (short stalk) is permanantly live, ignition on or off, which I think is wrong? The blue wire going to the hi/lo switch (long stalk) is dead whatever I do with ignition or light switch. Bridging across the two wires makes them work but that's a bodge, and they stay on when ignition is off. I understand there are no headlight relays on this vehicle, is that right? I also understand that some had a dim/dip relay?? Any ideas? Both steering column light switches are fairly new. The old sidelight/headlight switch melted like they do when the number plate light shorted. Any input welcome, I really want the old girl back on the road. I usually green lane my way to/from work and I am missing it badly. Regards Paul
  14. Hi - this problem started out as a simple replacement of a dodgy rear light, a reluctant indicator and a non-working front light. Headlights worked fine. So - the 5 amp blade fuse for the left side running lights kept on just falling out - loose in holder - and it blew each time the circuit powered up. I removed the fuse box and found the problem had gone WAY beyond putting some new lights in, checking bulbs and fuses and cleaning up the earth. See pics. There is a relay on the bottom right of the fuse panel - it's green. The wires to this have burned. I know this isn't the 5 amp running lights I originally started with, but it looks like the electric problems are far more serious and widespread. I have had no smell of burning, and the landy starts and runs OK still. But now I pulled this apart a bit I find the flashers don't work. I have a wiring diagram - but having trouble finding THESE wires. How serious is this? Terminal?
  15. 2007 110 TDCI, no immobiliser alarm fitted, turn key tried to start then cut out, temp gauge to max and battery light on, tried relays, fuses, disconnect battery, fully charged battery. Even the garage is scratching their head, tried all options for 4 days any ideas would help?
  16. Hi I'm new on this forum. I'm from Hungary and i have a '97 Discovery for off road. I woul like to install a meter counter, but i have not find yet any wiring diagram for the instrument panel, so i do not know which one is for the speed sensor. I tried to search the topics, but no luck. Thanks for all of your answers. Regards Csaba
  17. I'm hoping someone with a more reasoned mind will be able to assist me. I'm just gathering up the last few bits to install a pair of aux fuse boxes (1 X 6 Feed & 1 X 12 Feed) and i'm undecided on the benefits and drawbacks of large 100A fuses over a similar rated circuit breaker. Obviously the need to carry spare fuses is not a massive drawback but space is limited when it comes to replacing them. I'm specifically looking at Blue Sea marine circuit breakers which are said to be pretty durable with regards to water ingress and vibration. Now the reason i'm undecided is the fact that I have not seen many folk use them when doing a similar job. Is there a reason behind this that I am missing? This load of wiring is going to be a proper job and i'd like to be happy with it and get it right first time. Regards Kris
  18. Good Morning I have recently had the engine out to clean it up and rebuild it. Its a 3.5 V8 in a range rover classic. I have put the engine back in the car and I'm sure I have connected everything back up as I took it apart. However when I turn the ignition on I don't seem to have any power to the dash or anywhere. Is it correct that the positive lead runs from the battery connected to the inner wing then straight to the starter motor. I have connected an earth from starter to chassis and the main cable from alternator also to the starter. There is a small silver box attached to the inner wing which has a couple of cables to plug into somewhere but I'm not sure where. I will post some pictures up if i can figure how to do it. Is there anything i could have missed? I have checked cleaned and re-secured all the earths. An y help would be great. Many Thanks
  19. The headlights on my landy are the standard issue 1/2 a candle. And the bowls were rusty. So I decided to buy some nice H4 lights with plastic bowls. Decided I may as well add relays too while I am at it. So my question is, do I buy the relays at about £8 a piece from an auto electrical supplier, or the same price for 5 of them from ebay. I know the old saying about buying the best you can afford, but are they likely to be identical units? Anyone bought from ebay and had good/bad experiences with the relays?
  20. Hi, Im new to the forum so sorry if this sound like a dumb question, but I want to be sure before connecting. I currently have a TD5 and want to replace the cigarette lighter () with one of these: However, the USB socket has only + and - terminals, whereas the old cigarette lighter has a black wire, purple/green wire, and red/yellow wire connected to it: I'm guessing that the wires are as follows: black - earth purple/green - 12V red/yellow - to connect the bulb Could someone confirm this please? I cant test them as its a bit difficult to get my hands on a multi-tester at the moment. Thanks
  21. I have just purchased a Freelander 1 (I think Facelift) 2005 Sport Prem. It includes the Harman Kardon sub in the boot, the amp under passenger seat and extra speakers etc. The problem I have, is some idiot previously removed the "standard" stereo from this model, and replaced it with a Landrover Visteon Single CD Unit and absolutely butchered the loom!! The stereo connector is the Harman Kardon connection: YMQ500220 I've attached pictures of the mess, but I'm wondering if anyone can provide me with a photo of their connector end, or even better provide a wiring diagram / wiring color codes for me so I can attempt to fix this mess. I'm wanting to put in a Nexus 7 Tablet install which I did previously in my BMW (I always spend the money on a connect2 / auto-lead and butcher that - NEVER EVER touch the original looms) and I've also bought an aftermarket Radio with AUX in, but they've cut the wires and made their own ISO lead as such but only half the speakers work so I'm guessing they've wired it wrong anyways. The Visteon looks like the standard ISO connector with an extra 10pin clip at the top. Anyways, any help or photos would be much appreciated. I'm trying to work out the correct pairing for the speakers / sub etc. I have obviously susses the power, amp, ignition etc but need help with speakers to make life easier. Here's the mess they left behind the stereo...
  22. I thought you might be interested to follow my latest project which is to install auxiliary lighting onto my 110CSW. My truck is a general workhorse, nothing fancy: - it is at any time a: -Van for sound and lighting equipment, ladders and scaffolding -Kennel for several dogs -Minibus for work -Event safety vehicle at Easter and in the summer -Surrey 4x4 Response member's vehicle -Tow truck -Occasional off-roader -Camper van It's just had a new Brownchurch roof rack, strong enough to take scaffolding, decking and ladders - or a roof tent. Lighting: It is going to get: Roof spots Front A-bar spots Front LED flashers Rear LED flashers Roof beacons (removable) Rear work light Here is some of the kit: Raptor Switch Pod: Carling switches: LED heads from EVS: Modular fuse/relay box from VWP: And here is a rough wiring diagram of how it is all going to fit together: I hope this is interesting to someone and I will keep posting as I get on. Cheers, Mark
  23. Looking for inspiration here as it is all fitted up and I'm very happy with it, pics to follow in my build thread soon. But wiring, now, yes it came with cables that will be long enough to reach both battery trays and will go to the reserve battery tray as we are having a separate battery for all aux and non essential running electricals, but it's the routing and connections I want to see, what about grommets and holes and isolators? So who wants to show off their install to inspire me?
  24. Hi everyone I tried to browse through topics but could not find an existing thread for my question I want to install a roof top light bar on my Defender 110, so I am wondering where to have the wiring pass through the body to get to a dry area behind the dashboard to be connected to its relay. it will be a drip dail mounted bar, with flood and spot lights What I would like to do is to keep the loose wiring as short as possible (especially the outside wiring), this meaning that I believe I should try and let the cables inside as close to the bar as possible On the other hand I would like to avoid water leaking in. So where, in your experience, should the light bar cable enter the car body, for best results? thanks Nicola, Italy
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