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Both photos appear to show that a bearing cap has collapsed.  Yes, replace ASAP, if not sooner.  Continued use could result in total UJ collapse, and if it is a front UJ, of either prop shaft, major damage, and possible injury, could result as the prop shaft digs into the road and "pole vaults" the vehicle.  Not good!

Mike

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Has anyone seen evidence of a prop "Pole vault" a vehicle? They are tube and crush when twisting and bending forces are applied. It would definitely mash up anything under the floor as it flails about but "pole vault" the vehicle? Maybe a jump up like mounting a kerb?

The UJs are cast and will break under force so even the flailing is likely to be brief.

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Mythbusters tried to recreate a prop-vault, and essentially failed, the prop wouldn't even dig into the ground, though granted it wasn't on a lifted 4x4, but a Crown Vic.

Either way, when they let go they can do untold damage to the underside of your car, or separate and go flying out and hit a pedestrian, neither of which I am sure you want to happen.

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I had to repair a 200tdi 90 many years ago which had suffered a rear UJ failure on front prop - it needed a new drivers floor panel, it had ripped a load of the screws out of the spire nuts and put some huge dents in the floor. 

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I should obviously watch Mythbusters as it would disabuse me of some of the bull**** that's around.  I honestly believed that failure of the front UJ, particularly on the shorter front prop, could result in the prop digging into the road and lifting the vehicle.  I'm very glad that that would not happen, and thank you putting me wise.  Even so, UJ collapse could cause, and has caused, major damage, so the recommendation is still to get it replaced ASAP.

Mike

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As said, apart from damaging the vehicle, a flailing prop could conceivably hurt occupants or pedestrians.  That particular prop looks dangerous to me,  to just in need of urgent attention.  I don’t think it should be driven except at walking speed to get it onto a driveway or into a safe work place until removed.

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Not wanting to be the test dummy of a home made reconstruction of the Myth busters test I have started replacing the worn UJ. 

Yesterday evening I tried to take out the rear prop. The axle side came undone really wel. The handbrake side did not. The nuts are completely trashed. I think the previous owner tried to undo them with the wrong spanner. 

The worn UJ is the one on the axle side so i just took the prop apart (marked the position) and took out the UJ. It was in really bad shape. It fel apart when i tried to push it out but the play was still minimal. I'm wondering how this can make such a noise while driving. Could anyone explain? 

And does anybody have a good trick/tip to undo the bolts of the prop on the handbrake side? 

Thanks again. 

 

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3 hours ago, oneandtwo said:

I had to repair a 200tdi 90 many years ago which had suffered a rear UJ failure on front prop - it needed a new drivers floor panel, it had ripped a load of the screws out of the spire nuts and put some huge dents in the floor. 

A few years back I lost the front UJ on the front prop, whilst doing about 60 mph in a 200 TDi 110.  I ended up needing to replace the front brake lines, along with some interesting scrapes in the diff casing. As oneandtwo said, several of the spire clips needed replacing and the floor panel and footwell wee never quite the same ever again.

I didn't experience any "pole vaulting" but there were certainly scrapes in the tarmac where the flailing prop had hit the road surface. I supose that it is a theoretical risk, I suspect that (certainly on road), the angle of impact and the forward angular momentum of the prop end combined with the relative softness of the road surface mean it is more likely to gouge its way through / skid over the surface, rather than wedging sufficently to cause the rest of the body to over run it / lift. Would the rear UJ, attached to the T Box support the weight / angle / articulation or would it in turn shatter?

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15 minutes ago, marieholm said:

And does anybody have a good trick/tip to undo the bolts of the prop on the handbrake side? 

Can you get a 14mm spanner on? They are 9/16" and therefore a 14mm being slightly smaller, does wedge on.

Otherwise, you can get 6-sided propshaft tools, e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-Tools-6151-Propshaft-Socket-FITS-Land-Rover-Range-Rover-/163962288316?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10

They have a slim shaft, and slim socket so as to get in there much easier, makes doing props a LOT quicker.

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Thanks Bowie69.

 

I have the propshaft tool but it slips over the nut. The 14mm doesn't fit but I might be able to hammer it on.

 

Before getting the hammer out I was hoping that a more "gentle" solution would be possible. 

 

 

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24 minutes ago, marieholm said:

Thanks Bowie69.

 

I have the propshaft tool but it slips over the nut. The 14mm doesn't fit but I might be able to hammer it on.

 

Before getting the hammer out I was hoping that a more "gentle" solution would be possible. 

 

 

9/16's af is the socket you need regards Stephen

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45 minutes ago, marieholm said:

is the 9/16 different from the prop shaft tool? 

No difference in size but this is the combination I've used for about 35 years also if you rotate the prop you will find the best angle for the socket to slip over the but regards Stephen

 

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With a bid of luck I managed to get the last bolts of the UJ on the handbrake drum side.  I hammered a 14mm socket on and it worked.

 

I’m fitting the new UJ on the axle side and I noticed the yoke (spelling??) seems to have a fair bit of wear. It shouldn’t look like this right?

For now I’m going to fit the new UJ anyway but should it be better to just replace the prop completely?

82B23188-5E98-4495-83C8-E27CBDF63760.jpeg

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That’s not wear - that’s damage where the bearing retaining wall has broken off.  It’s scrap.  I would recommend you don’t use that prop with the yolk in that condition as it could crack open - apart from a significant amount of material being missing already, there may well be micro fractures in the remaining material if that much visible damage already exists.

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Thanks for the advice. 

I just checked the parts numbers.  I have a 2.5na stw 110 with the normal lt77 and lt230 (it has a 200tdi but that should not matter right?)

Can I use the FRC8389?  it says that this is for the 300tdi / td5 models. directly available. 

the FRC8389 is for the 200tdi but has one 1 delivery time 

 

 

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