Cornish Rattler Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 Hi guys Not saying I am going to do it but just need to know, does anyone do a power steer kit for a Disco 200tdi'd S11 / 111 and is it worth doing, if no why Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 Yes it's very worthwhile. heystee do a kit with a ram that bolts into the standard series steering but it's not the best - it still keeps the vagueness of the series steering. It's also silly money. most make up their own using steering boxes from defenders or P38 range rovers. mine uses a 6 bolt defender steering box coupled to the 200tdi disco pas pump with a defender column. Works well, takes a lot f the vagueness out of the steering, but it most definitely isn't a bolt in job, and requires fabrication. do a search in here it's been covered many times before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Worth it ? Hmm... Very personal thing but we fitted ours 27 years ago and are very, very happy with it. IH Scout box (Saginaw) - Defender coll. collumm - Home made connection - Series indicator stalk Powersteering pump on the 2.25 / 2.5 from a Jaguar At present, we're fitting a 200 Tdi so I'll ask Mr. Pirtek to make some new crimps for the hydraulic hoses. Bon Couarage - be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Well worth it, mine's a Disco 2 box, there's a write up of it somewhere (either here or in the members vehicles forum). Does require chassis mods and needs to be done properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 Thanks for the info, yeah as its got a disco 200 fitted and would like to use the 200 power steer pump but don't want to mod the new galv chassis so was thinking if I could use something like the heystee kit but some how connect it up to the 200's power steer pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 TBH - I'd stay away from any RAM type system. Drilling a few holes in the chassis, liberally apply Galvafroid and you'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Has anyone ever known a chassis to rot out at that point.....? I suspect not unless it was severely abused or badly repaired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 The ram kits are hugely expensive, vulnerable, suffer lag, have unequal force in opposite directions (as all rams do) and don't fix the play inherent in the Series system. I used a Defender upper column and reservoir with P38 box, pump and lower column. It has the same gearing ratio as the SIII steering box, so handling is the same, but I can turn the wheel lock to lock with ease with one little finger while parked, and all the slack and wander is gone. The P38 boxes are stronger and more reliable than the Adwest type and won't need any chassis chopping (particularly the front cross member) - you just need to weld a bracket tot he outside of the chassis leg. I mounted the pump using a custom bracket on the aircon pump mount lugs of the Discovery 200Tdi timing case and used a second water pump pulley back to back with the first to power it. I used a cut down and re-threaded P38 drag link, but I also have coiler axles, so needed a longer link. Standard axles may be able to use a Defender drag link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 On 30/01/2017 at 1:10 PM, Cornish Rattler said: some how connect it up to the 200's power steer pump Places like Hyphose or Pirtek will crimp a hose to pretty much any spec, and have a stock of adapters etc. A home-made one will NOT hold the pressure and and you're risking injury and fire if it explodes. It can help to have the steel ends + fittings that you can then attach a flexi to with a compresison olive type fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: Places like Hyphose or Pirtek will crimp a hose to pretty much any spec, and have a stock of adapters etc. A home-made one will NOT hold the pressure and and you're risking injury and fire if it explodes. It can help to have the steel ends + fittings that you can then attach a flexi to with a compresison olive type fitting. I took the ends of the p38 hoses (the steel pipes cut down to length) for refabrication to suit my engine bay at a hydraulics specialist. Cost about £15 including the new hoses and the crimping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daslandroverman Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Here's a guy done a P38 conversion without welding on a galvy chassis. The post you want is about halfway down the page. http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/148109/mercedes-land-rover-over-years?page=3 The P38 box does seemto be the best way to do it on a Series motor. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 11 hours ago, daslandroverman said: Here's a guy done a P38 conversion without welding on a galvy chassis. The post you want is about halfway down the page. http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/148109/mercedes-land-rover-over-years?page=3 The P38 box does seemto be the best way to do it on a Series motor. Does seem a bit Waste of time though tbh. If you don't want to drill/weld your galved chassis to avoid corrosion, then why would you bolt a big ol' rusty plate right to it?! It'll rust even worse than a couple of welds/holes. Also something just "sandwiched" does tend to move about, as your relying solely on friction to keep everything in place. I would say at least a couple of 10mm dowels would be required, but then we're back to the drilling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Not only that, but he has no strength in the forward ends of the inboard clamping plate. I looked into a similar idea for my conversion, but it was obvious that the plates would twist on the chassis, a tiny amount at first, but gradually more and more, crushing the chassis and in his case bending the inner plate (I intended for it to pick up on the relay bolt holes and have plenty of lateral stiffening). I consider that a dangerous installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted March 13, 2017 Author Share Posted March 13, 2017 On 2/1/2017 at 0:16 PM, Snagger said: Not only that, but he has no strength in the forward ends of the inboard clamping plate. I looked into a similar idea for my conversion, but it was obvious that the plates would twist on the chassis, a tiny amount at first, but gradually more and more, crushing the chassis and in his case bending the inner plate (I intended for it to pick up on the relay bolt holes and have plenty of lateral stiffening). I consider that a dangerous installation. Yeah I would have thought it should have crush tubes in the chassis for that really Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 The P38 box bolts pass over and under the chassis rail, not through it, but even with anticrush tubes, I thought the non-welded clamping plates would rock on the chassis and in the process buckle it. I was considering an 8mm plate outboard with inboard clamping plates behind and in front of the cross member, the box secured to the outer plate and the plate secured with long bolts and anticrush tubes to those inner plates. Without internal chassis bracing, it didn't seem a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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