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western

clutch slave cylinder hose/pipes

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recently [last weekend] replaced the master & slave cylinders on my clutch system, 

as we all know the slave can be very awkward to bleed even with the correct kit, I'm toying with this idea ---

remove the bleed screw & fit a length of clutch/brake pipe to relocate the bleed screw higher up in engine bay either bracketed to bulkhead/inner wing or rocker cover,

IIRC morris Ital cars had a similar arrangement but used 2 short sections of rigid pipe at each end with a translucent flexible hose in between,no getting under the vehicle to bleed the clutch & any air trapped could be seen when bled.

do the collective think this is a good idea or not ?? 

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I have that set of pipes in the garage for my moggy minor, yes I will be fitting it, and they do work well, and as you say, you can see air bubbles.

Probably be worth checking out a motor sport place to get the hose made up, maybe David @ llama would be able to do it/advise you best/cheapest way?

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I was thinking of enquiring with Llama 4x4 about the possibility of having one made,  I've sent him a email ref a new goodridge hose that can be connected via a banjo fitting/bolt direct to the slave cylinder to replace the standard rubber hose & short bent pipe,

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I purchased a cheap system not that long ago to allow me to bleed my brakes alone. Works amazingly well and will work on the clutch too.

The device is a simple one way valve with a pipe connected to each end. One fits on the bleed nipple the other in a jar or container.

Once connected you simply open the bleed nipple and then start pumping the brake or clutch pedal, as it's a one way valve once you stop pumping fluid flow stops, you can have a look for any bubbles.

Only snag is you have to keep topping up the reservoir particularly when bleeding brakes. Other than that it works great completely bled my brakes on all four wheels and it took me less than 20 mins to do the job.

Best part is it cost less than £5 on ebay.

 

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  Motorcycle Car Brake Bleeder Clutch One Way Valve &Tube Tool Bleed Bleeding Kit

Motorcycle Car Brake Bleeder Clutch One Way Valve &Tube Tool Bleed Bleeding Kit

£3.94 on Ebay
Regards Ian

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I've got a bleed pipe with a one way valve already, I want to move the clutch bleed point up higher, so less lying on cold driveway even with a tarp or cardboard under me.

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I thought that raised, remote bleed nipple was already an option.  I'm sure I have seen it on some LRs somewhere.  Running the line up alongside of the feed line, ending next to the master cylinder would allow the simultaneous observation of the reservoir level and bleed.  Just remember to include a flexible hose where it goes from the engine to the bulkhead.

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Will watch this with interest. My 88" had a short pipe from the clylinder back to a bracket at its mounting which moved the bleed nipple to a more accessible location, but I can't see any reason why a vertical pipe up to wing level wouldn't work also.

I guess it's the equivalent of the remote grease nipples found on plant equipment.

I have never managed to fully bleed a Land Rover clutch, but I've found that I can get a useable pedal and then it self bleeds the rest over the next day or so. This could be a good method for avoiding that.

Edited by Retroanaconda
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In the past I have done a quick bleed to get some sort of pedal, then press the pedal to the floor, wedge it down with a piece of wood or similar. Release the pressure at the slave cylinder and leave it overnight. Come back next morning, perfect pedal. Does it even faster if the front of the truck is jacked up, don't know why. Now I use a vacuum bleeder. 

But other than that, anything which obviates the necessity of crawling under a Land Rover has to be a good idea.

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2 hours ago, Snagger said:

I thought that raised, remote bleed nipple was already an option.  I'm sure I have seen it on some LRs somewhere.  Running the line up alongside of the feed line, ending next to the master cylinder would allow the simultaneous observation of the reservoir level and bleed.  Just remember to include a flexible hose where it goes from the engine to the bulkhead.

Not on any 110 I've seen, unless it's on another model.

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bit of a update, spoke to David of Llama 4x4 earlier today,a good friendly chat,  he can make exactly what I want,

a new longer clutch fluid pipe that will connect direct to slave cylinder & a bleed pipe from slave to a location on inner wing with a bleed screw on the upper end, 

just have to give him the overall lengths for each hose. 

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Ralph, is that transparent pipe as well?

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I did this to my last 109 and it works well (but then how often do you need to bleed the clutch? ). Master feed went to the bottom of the slave and then a second pipe went up to the top of the engine with a bleed nipple on it. A bleed nipple will screw into a male (appropriate metric or imperial) brake pipe fitting, so you just need to make up some pipe and a bracket to fit it to the engine. If you attach the bleed nipple to the bulkhead or inner wing then you'll have to take into consideration engine/ gearbox movement relative to the bodywork. Vibration will eventually fracture the pipe and you'll lose the clutch.

 

 

Les

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new clutch & bleed pipe will be goodridge flexi hose with appropriate fittings at each end. 

If David can do the bleed with transparent hose that would be good, I just want the bleed screw higher up, it's not the easiest of bleed screws to get at with decent access, had to bend my spanner last time to make it fit on the bleed screw better.

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Nice idea but not particularly a fan, as Les says, how often do you bleed the clutch? blue moon comes into mind, I can only see it introducing more pipework for failure and trapping of air?

So have you done this conversion?

Mav

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not yet waiting on Llama 4x4 to get back to me, phoned again today, David did say he would ring me later. hopefully to order the items I want, 

Yes I know clutch bleed hose is a luxury, but I fed up of that particular job being a lying on  my cold driveway chore even if it's a 'once in a blue moon' type job. 

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Hi Western , as said already its a bloody good idea and your dead right, that job, although as some have said not an every day thing , is a pain in the arse ,  will you be posting said parts list from Llama 4x4 here ?

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If you ring David at llama he will know what he supplied, he tends to stick that sort of thing in a little notebook :)

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Haven't pushed this any further yet, I know David was very busy sorting the Doninington 4x4 show recently, I'll ring him on monday when home from work. 

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Finally ordered the flexi hoses on 13 May, had a good chat with David & he has made them up & they arrived today, thanks to a delivery driver trying to deliver to the wrong house, got that sorted out with David's help yesterday & the hoses arrived this morning, so fitting will take place within the next few weeks, got other engine/turbo problems at the moment.

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On 05/02/2017 at 4:59 PM, neil110 said:

In the past I have done a quick bleed to get some sort of pedal, then press the pedal to the floor, wedge it down with a piece of wood or similar. Release the pressure at the slave cylinder and leave it overnight. Come back next morning, perfect pedal. Does it even faster if the front of the truck is jacked up, don't know why. Now I use a vacuum bleeder. 

 

Bleeding clutches is always far better with the vehicle front raised.  My 109's stance is similar to a late 110 on HD rear springs (and I suspect they have the same issue on Tdis), and it won't bleed at all on level ground.  It's because the bleed nipple is nearer the front of the vehicle,so if the vehicle rear is higher than the front, any air in the slave is strapped behind the piston, away from and above the bleed.

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Never really had a problem bleeding the clutch free of air, it's just a pain to get spanner & handsin there. 

Anyway the hoses arrived a while ago,  I'll add a photo or 2 tomorrow, then if the weather is good spend a hour or 2 fitting them, I'll have to make a bracket for the bleed screw end to attach to, but that won't be to hard to sort out. 

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