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Help for building a roll cage


o_teunico

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Hi all,

I have been given a pipe bender for my birthday, so I will try to build an internal roll cage for my 88.

Yes, we all know that a tube bender will be the proper tool for this work, but I have seen people using pipe benders with quite good results.

I will use saddle joints, but, how?

Just weld the piece to the end of the bar or weld a piece of solid bar to the "hole"? Weld a cap maybe?

I made many years ago a roll bar for an 88, but never a full cage. It will be fully bolted, as roll cages are not legal for street cars. It will be bolted for pay&play weekends and unbolted for daily driving.

Any help will be apreciated.

 

plegadoratubos.jpg

1aaa clamp.jpg

Edited by o_teunico
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Unfortunately, from experience I can tell you that bender is no use for building a roll cage. It will bend pipe, not tube, and thus has dies sized for imperial pipe not seamless tube. Roll cage tubing (cfs3 or a better equivalent cds) will also kink if bent with those dies and no internal support. I bought a pro tool ratchet bender years ago after messing about with a hydraulic push unit

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I've built many cages now using a bender like that, all in tube, but cheap tube. The way I see it, is that because a race car has to be as light as possible, yet still has as much protection as possible, you end up having to use a more expensive material. So I just think like the engineers of yesteryear and over-dimension whenever in doubt :D My preferred tube measures 48mm OD and has a wall thickness of 2,5mm, a bit tough to bend, but you get the hang of it. The beauty of this tube is that the 48mm OD is just a tad too big for the die, so I've ground it down to be a very snug fit, which, even at a 90degree bend, completely removes the kinking.

Oh and an added benefit to thicker wall, that most people forget, is that you don't get dings and dents as easily (from trees, rocks etc) And a big ol' dent in a fancy tube is even more dangerous and useless than a piece of pipe that still has its shape (in my humble opinion that is :)

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I have experience with using such a bender, very easy to use and very easy to get the bend you want in the right place. Also very easy to turn a nice piece of tube into to scrap in 10 seconds flat

 

 

This is the video I watched and I cannot stress how tight you need to pack that sand as I kinked a tube with sand in

 

 

as for the saddles. I weld the tube up 

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18 years ago I build my first (and yet only) ROPS for a Land Rover. The guy at the steel warehouse recomended "DIN gas pipe", 1,5" internal diameter and 3.2mm wall thickness. It was suposed to be equivalent to that 48mm OD blue band mentioned by ARC regulations.

In those days I had no welding experience, neither a bender, so, local blacksmith bent it for me. I then tacked it in the 88 and he fully MIG welded it.

 

 

SeferinoVeraniego.jpg

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Those saddles come in pairs and one half goes onto the end of one tube and the other half goes onto the side of the other tube and yes, that is apparently all. I only know because I was looking into doing the same thing years ago. Safety Devices or a similar outfit were selling them. I still have to build a roll bar for my Series Landie and will have to do it in the same way as you, using available tube and that type of hydraulic bender, but not with the saddles, just a fixed frame behind the cab. This is because I live in a remote town and there are simply no other options. So since what you want to do isn't for motorsport it will be fine if the design and welding are sensible. 

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I'd go with the middle photo. The top has too much extra welding and the bottom relies only on basically two welds. Of course I realise I'm no expert but the join in the middle picture has been the standard in the Land Rover world for quite a long time. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Today I have found some time for playing with my new toy and have bent my first pipe.

Old fence post, 49mm OD and 2mm wall thickness. When I was pumping it looked like it wasn´t at 90 degree, but in fact it was bent a tad above 90 degree. Lesson 1: don´t trust your eyes when calculating angles.

Theres was some tube kinking. As expected, die is 51mm and tube OD 49. Lesson 2: tight die/pipe fit is essential.

The rollers also have marked the pipe. Lesson 3: use load spreading plates.

The bending radius was 150mm, that is, 3 times the pipe´s OD. Perfect for an internal roll cage following roofs line.

Santana used a GRP double skin foam filled roof, and that will require a small extra bent 4" below the main bent, where the roof meets the window panel.

 

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I suppose it depends on if the vertical legs are going to go down through the "benches" on the sides. 

For the OP, I cut a short piece of pipe in half lengthwise and put these between the rollers and the pipe to avoid those dents you wound up with. It's a bit picky to set up, but works well. 

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13 hours ago, Davo said:

I cut a short piece of pipe in half lengthwise

Yep, that´s how I want to do it, as seen in those youtube videos.

Santana used same window panels as any british built Series/Defender. It´s the roof the one that is different. It has about 4" of plain inclined surface before the "arch" starts.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I don't know if it's of use but at the Donnington Show, Red Winches had the most beautiful tube joints:

http://www.red-winches.com/categories/brackets-amp-parts/45/

e_181-1.jpg

They are about the most precise and good looking I've seen - and well priced for what they are.  Knowing Neil, they will be properly specified for the job too.

I would bet he would custom machine ones for whatever ID of tube you are using.

Si

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