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intermittent clutch after replacement

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latest news -- pulled the gearbox today, pressure cover & friction plate out, some slight signs of slipping, plate slides on gearbox splines very well, gave the cover & flywheel gripping faces are good clean with brake/clutch cleaner, clutch parts & gearbox now bolted back in place, got the rest of the remove for access bits to refit tomorrow, then see what happens. 

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so this weekend has been total wasted effort, everything back where it should be, clutch hydrualics bled again [got a eezibleed kit] so definitely no air in the system, went for a test drive, still got the intermittent take up of drive & sometimes no drive at all in high or low range 

i.e. sat in my drive in high range,reverse gear engaged, engine at idle or revs increased, park brake off = no movement. but does move if first is selected.

 

 

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Yes a GKN unit, I'm thinking this is causing my problem even though is was not engaged. 

given up for today been outside in crappy weather since 9am & all day yesterday. 

removal the overdrive & refit the transfer gear is possible but I need a new cross drilled gear for a 22D 1.410:1 LT230T, 

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I use an Ezibleed and it leave plenty of air in the clutch slave if I don't park the car nose-up; if the car is nose down, air is trapped at the piston, well away from the bleed nipple, and it absolutely will not clear regardless of duration, speed, pressure or flow of bleeding, either by foot or by pressure.  However, that trapped air will prevent complete disengagement of the clutch, not complete engagement, so is not the cause of your slipping clutch.

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Ralph

Did you try Pat Pending's suggestion of checking for retained pressure ? 

Although now Mo has mentioned overdrive it does come high up the list of causes . I suppose to eliminate hydraulics you could drain the fluid or remove the slave cyl. and try driving somewhere safe by starting in gear ?

cheers

Steve b 

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I'm pretty sure the slave & master are well bled, the pedal operation feels fine, I'm beginning to think there is another item causing my problems, just about changed everything in the clutch system, only the rigid pipes haven't been replaced but the fluid flow through these is good.

Yes I tried Pat's suggestion, vigously pumped the pedal lots of times, then got under & cracked bleed screws, no 'spurt' of fluid still under pressure, so happy the hydraulic system is fine.

going to obtain a new 26 tooth cross drilled gear & bearings as the existing one [on the shelf] is damaged beyond repair, when it comes I can remove the overdrive & see if the fault is still present. 

[with ref to the OD,  sometimes when it was engaged & driving ok, the OD would drop out & then come back in, everytime it made the engine revs rise as it disengaged & revs would fall again is it re-engaged] wondering if this is the actual cause.

 

 

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I'd forgotten about your OD. Mo knows the symptoms of these slipping very well! Mo, Neil and I have replaced nearly everything replaceable in that OD and still haven't rectified the problem!

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Ralph, I reckon that once that overdrive is off you slipping problems will disappear.

As Rich says been, seen, and have the T shirt.

Mo

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Well remembered Mo.... Forgot he has that under there and the symptoms do sound familiar now you mention it....

I hope the input gear resolves the mystery although it does bring another set of challenges with it of course...

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I'll be ordering a new gear & associated bearings in morning then, along with some gear oil which I can get locally, then see what happens, forgotten how long I've had the OD fitted, it was bought 2nd hand years ago, hasn't given any problems till now. shame if it has to stay off because it makes my 110 nice to drive on long trips.  

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I'm sure you could rebuild the OD if it is the cause.  Fingers crossed it's something cheaper, but I doubt it's the clutch hydraulics.  Can you driving it with the slave detached from the bell housing, just in case the new fork is not releasing fully because of an excessively long pin (or bend in the fork).  Ae you sure the new release bearing is the right spec and not on loo long a sleeve?

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Fork hasn't been replaced it's a beefed up one fitted ages ago, Release bearing is correct [I found that out the hard way] for my 200tdi engine + stumpy R380 is release bearing is UTJ100210, it's about 10mm shorter than the LT77 bearing FTC5200. 

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15 minutes ago, Snagger said:

I'm sure you could rebuild the OD if it is the cause.  Fingers crossed it's something cheaper, but I doubt it's the clutch hydraulics.  Can you driving it with the slave detached from the bell housing, just in case the new fork is not releasing fully because of an excessively long pin (or bend in the fork).  Ae you sure the new release bearing is the right spec and not on loo long a sleeve?

As above, we've rebuilt the one Mo was using and god knows what's causing it to slip as we've replaced everything we can get our hands on and it's still doing it!

With any luck, if it is Ralph's OD, it'll just be the clutch pack. 

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Devon 4x4 are the supply chain for GKN parts, so will get the new gear & remove OD & report back.

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Couldn't have put the clutch plate in the wrong way around, could you?  Easily done on a bad day...  A pain to rectify, but better than rebuilding the OD!  Trying the standard transfer box gear will tell, though.

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all fitted together correctly, made sure the friction plate was in the right way & it is printed with 'This side to gearbox' 

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Here's hoping for a fix and return to normal service - just a pain in the backside that the transfer box has to come off to do the input gear bearings :(

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To test a theory I'd put it in with new bearings and leave the races for what could only be a few miles in reality.

If you need to swap out the overdrive for more than a test, then pull the t/box and do the job when you know you need to.

I'm with you on this Rich.

If it's not the O/D Ralph, then you will have pulled and change the races for nothing....

 

Just my thoughts.

 

(More importantly why aren't you under the truck in the dark changing it now !!)

:)

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(More importantly why aren't you under the truck in the dark changing it now !!)

Simply because I finished work at 9pm, [late shift this week] its cold & wet outside, & to tired to try to sod about with important parts tonight, plus I've got a cold. :P

new gear is wrapped up in the freezer hoping a cold soak & new bearings are sat above the hot water tank, hopefully that help the new bearings slide onto the gear a bit easier, found the original carrier & pto cover plate in my garage, both cleaned up ready, will change the TB oil as well,  & just got to find the 6 x M10 x 35mm bolts & their washers or I'll have to buy more new parts. rearmost bearing race will be changed, the forward one may just have to stay in place, don't want to pull the transfer box off again, it's to flipping heavy.

 

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Come on Ralph, where's your sense of adventure ? We all want to know !

Mo ?

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Unfortunately for you lot, I'm not feeling very well today, weather is very poor too, so although the new gear is ready to fit with new bearings installed, actual removing of the OD  will have to wait until the weekend. I found 6 new M10 x 35mm bolts in my garage as well.

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