madmatt Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Firstly i wasn't sure where to post this thread as i hope to update it as i go along my rebuild but also have a few questions so it fits here to, Here is the plan we have a Marsland chassis and galv bulkhead to rebuild our 130 its currently a single can but will become a double as we go I will list the questions and i will be interested in anyones thoughts,opinions 1) i intend to paint the galv chassis for a number of reasons including i prefer black chassis secondly roadsalt and cow muck attack galv rather well and if the motor aint in one its in the other. Has anybody had any experiance of Buzzweld products? 2) i am going to replace the clutch as its 12 years old this year i tow a vintage tractor now most weekends all up 3ton the last kit was genuine LR has anyone used a kit from Clutchfix or Truckfix as it was previously? 3) my plan is to build up the bulkhead and crewcab on the new chassis including a new fueltank before pulling mine off the road to swap over the running gear the only real drawback i can see its the gear and transfer box will have to go in from under neath but lets face it i have done that before! There will be more questions but i keep forgetting them! Many thanks Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 I agree with covering the galvanising layer - I too find it too eye catching/ugly and galv is not as invulnerable as many people think. I used Hammerite Underbody Shield, a bitumen and waxoil mix, which has been extremely effective (and can be wiped off with a petrol or white spirit soaked rag any time it's needed). I etched and enamel spray painted the rear cross member, just because it's so visible. Rustoleum satin black looks great and is pretty robust, and is not expensive or difficult to find. Definitely replace the clutch friction and pressure plates, and also do the release bearing, fork (reinforced) and spigot bush while you're in there. Use Borg and Beck, Valeo or Delpi (OEM). If you leave the seat base loose, the transmission can go in through the door on a crane, if you prefer. Keep the questions coming, and ideally photos too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil110 Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 If there is nothing in front of the bulkhead the engine/gearbox can go in from the front can't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 I painted my Marsland galv chassis, simply to keep it in good condition & prying eyes off it, I used vehicle coach paint primer & chassis black gloss paint from a local motor factors. even easier to fit engine/gearbox to the bare rolling chassis, then fit the bulkhead after, there's no way you can damage the bulkhead with the suspended big lumps of iron then. my own chassis change thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmatt Posted March 13, 2017 Author Share Posted March 13, 2017 Thanks all for the replys, Yes Ralph it would be easier to fit the engine box to a rolling chassis but as i posted originally we need to get as much done before we pull the vehicle off the road as possible as downtime has to be as low as possible. I have studied your build thread and it is very informative. I will keep the questions coming as i think of them and will add pictures as we start Many thanks all, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmatt Posted March 26, 2017 Author Share Posted March 26, 2017 So a productive couple of weekends have resulted in a tub and a few other bits bought including a Buzzweld kit to treat new chassis, now for some silly questions 1) anyone know the part no or supplier for clips that hold fuel lines to a marsland chassis? 2) i wanted to replace the pipes from the diesel tank to the engine bay but am struggling to find these on line? 3) does any one know the length and diameter of the bolts that hold the bulkhead to the chassis? Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 You can find what you need in a parts book like this one which I found easily by googling appropriate words. Get the part number you are interested in and then check the reference on a parts supplier website like lrseries or others. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 fuel line clips you need are as used on the Tdci last of the defenders chassis.I used some stainless steel/rubber P clips & tek screws on mine. fuel pipes are diesel resistant nylon so shouldn't need replacing, just a external clean up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmatt Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 21 hours ago, Peaklander said: 20 hours ago, western said: fuel line clips you need are as used on the Tdci last of the defenders chassis.I used some stainless steel/rubber P clips & tek screws on mine. fuel pipes are diesel resistant nylon so shouldn't need replacing, just a external clean up. Thanks Ralph i might do that, i was hoping to pick up new diesel lines because as previously stated we are doing things upside down so i thought it would be nice and easier to run new pipes clipped to chassis before we put the cab on, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 They are not expensive and easier to replace than trying to reclaim the old ones off the chassis. They may be fuel resistant but get brittle and can snap easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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