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Shackleton

New Series - RR Heavy

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Courtesy of @Anderzander's thread - Urchfab's video on welding thin panels is excellent and shows just how slow you have to go - or as I like to call it "what a f***ing pain in the f**in ar5e panel work is" :ph34r:

Also interesting that he goes as far as to recommend a different welding gas mix (Argoshield Light or equivalent I'm guessing) and 0.6mm wire for thin stuff, which is probably why the flux-cored wire isn't helping as it can't be made thin enough.

 

 

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Yep, argoshield (light) makes a big difference for panel work. I tend to use 0.8 wire, but I do sometimes wonder about swapping it out, it is just such a faff, that's all :)

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9 hours ago, Peaklander said:

Your stop motion welding amazingly shows the glow and it feels almost like real time slowed down if that makes sense. I wonder how you are triggering the camera so quickly? Do you have a foot pedal or maybe even a voice operated switch?

I quickly duck out of the frame and trigger the shot with a remote control after each spot of weld, so the job has to be one where I have very clear and direct access. It all has to happen very quickly so that I keep a consistent heat in the metal. It can be a real work out.

@FridgeFreezer thanks for the link :)

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For something like the welding, are you not better filming it and then taking the individual frames? Or set a timer on the camera for a shot every 1/1.5/2 seconds etc? 

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7 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

I tend to use 0.8 wire, but I do sometimes wonder about swapping it out, it is just such a faff, that's all :)

0.8 wire is far easier handling wise as it doesn't kink up so easily, but if I was doing as much thin/panel work as George I think I'd buy a small reel of it at least - even chassis or axle work is "thin" by many standards after all, unless you're doing a Nige and glueing 10mm plates all over the shop :ph34r:

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Yeah, was fine for the Land Rover stuff, but been mostly doing panel work on a Moggy, so that is a quarter the thickness of most LR stuff.

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54 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

...are you not better filming it and then taking the individual frames? Or set a timer on the camera for a shot every 1/1.5/2 seconds etc? 

pulling frames out of video is possible, but pointless given I'd have to get out of the frames just the same. It's funny I get asked that quite often and I think folk forget they're not seeing a tool or a hand in the sequences. RE a timerl I did originally expect to set the intervalometer to trigger the camera every X seconds, but it was a pain in the arse because something would hold me up or take longer than expected and I'd get caught in the frame. So I usually always have the trigger in the hand I'm steadying the welding torch with. Like I said, my welds tend to be better when I'm not doing two things at once ;)

39 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

0.8 wire is far easier handling wise as it doesn't kink up so easily, but if I was doing as much thin/panel work as George I think I'd buy a small reel of it at least...

I'm using .8 but i'm guessing you meant .6. I'm biding my time and will be experimenting as soon as I have a conventional gas shielded machine. I've put this car back together with the gasless machine and that'll do. Tbh a shielded machine would have been useless many of the days since I left the unit and have been working outside. There's almost always wind here. No point getting fancy on it now. Not touching the Esprit chassis with it though.

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2 hours ago, Shackleton said:

I'm using .8 but i'm guessing you meant .6. I'm biding my time and will be experimenting as soon as I have a conventional gas shielded machine. I've put this car back together with the gasless machine and that'll do. Tbh a shielded machine would have been useless many of the days since I left the unit and have been working outside. There's almost always wind here. No point getting fancy on it now. Not touching the Esprit chassis with it though.

I meant 0.8mm is easier feeding as it's not like trying to push wet spaghetti... but 0.6mm is better for thinner work.

TBH gassed migs are OK outside unless it's very windy, you can up the gas flow a bit and position yourself / the work / other stuff to break the wind if needed - it's by no means necessary to use gasless outdoors. Migging in a field in the rain has been known... :ph34r:

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8 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Migging in a field in the rain has been known... :ph34r:

:D Nobody here of course

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Posted (edited)

Well I repaired ALL of the holes in the old alu boot floor today using those alu brazing rods. 

I have to say it's a piece of cake. I didn't think the little stainless wire brush they include with the rods would be up to much but it's surprisingly resilient and effective. It's actually amazing how big a gap you can bridge using the surface tension of liquid alu. I should have tried this sooner, I'd have had a lot of fun making the alu repairs to the rear quarters this way rather than using rivets, and with a little filler it'd have been a much cleaner job.

I only have one photo in the phone, and it's of some of the smaller repairs, but there'll be a section in the next episode. It doesn't look like much but I took a pointed punch and hammered on these [as per the infomercial videos on YT] and they were rock solid.

Vogue boot floor alu repairsS.jpg

Edited by Shackleton
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That's a good update.. I had looked at those rods for some time....

If you feel the need I have a spare floor panel for the RRC if you feel yours needs replacing at any point... Just the distance that is the barrier though... :)

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I’ve had some of those rods sitting unused in my garage for years 😳

They are an aluminium’s alloy made to have a very low melting point and super high surface tension aren’t they ...

I have an old carburettor with a stripped thread in it ... I’ve been thinking of setting a bolt in it and filling around it with the rod, see if it works....!?

 

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2 minutes ago, Anderzander said:

I have an old carburettor with a stripped thread in it ... I’ve been thinking of setting a bolt in it and filling around it with the rod, see if it works....!? 

To be honest, I would just fill the hole, drill and tap!

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50 minutes ago, V8 Freak said:

If you feel the need I have a spare floor panel for the RRC... :)

Thanks a mill mate. This one will last a while because I'm going to paint it but it's fairly thin in a few places. The repair is to make it water tight really and because I wanted to know what was possible. So I'd take your arm off. You know I searched for 6 months here, one guy I drove 2.5hrs to wanted €90 for one in worse condition and told me I was stupid not to take it. Another had me angle grind the seized tailgate of his breaker open, clear the car out and when he saw the floor was in decent nick he wouldn't sell. This floor was given to me by a patron and frankly I'm very pleased to have been able to make it useable. It's actually quite difficult to run a channel and not have it effect the decisions you make on the car.

17 minutes ago, Anderzander said:

They are an aluminium’s alloy made to have a very low melting point and super high surface tension aren’t they ...

I don't know exactly but that's a perfect description for how they perform in the field. There was no sign of the boot floor starting to melt but the rod will go quite quickly. It's very like soldering, get everything clean, get good heat in the parent metal and then offer in the filler. I could imagine it'd be possible to do some extremely delicate or bridge some large holes with a very small and precise torch. And like Bowie says I'd just fill the hole and tap, although I'm sure if there's a flux for this stuff it'd run at least partially into thread.

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What gas did you use George? MAP or  Butane?

I have a plumbing torch with Butane and I’m wondering if that’s upto the job...

The thread repair idea came from seeing this video years ago - starts at 1:00 in...

 

 

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MAPP and a plumbers torch, that's all you need!

:o I was really enjoying that until they sheared the bolt in the alu casting :D

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Bit of DIY with those alu rods and the last place rust can hide on a RRC. It nearly went to the crusher this time...

forgot to post the previous episode too.

 

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Really felt for you this episode - reinforces my belief in never buying a Land Rover with a sunroof! :lol:

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Yeah, well done finding a rot free one to splice in! ....and for not torching the car :)

All said and done the windscreen repair shouldn't take too long in reality...

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Glad you didn't trash it after all the work George.... Did feel for you when I watched it though.....

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Posted (edited)

The stormy weather blew over yesterday, I'll be back on it today. Only thing I'm worried about it breaking the heated screen. 

I must take a few shots of the outgoing sunroof, it had nothing to do with the windscreen rot. The inner seal is perfect as is the whole cassette, the drains are all completely clear too. I'm sure I got the replacement sunroof from an LR4x4 member, albeit through ebay, but I don't remember who from. 

15 hours ago, geoffbeaumont said:

Yeah, but...Vogue SE :wub:

Have to say, it's only now as I'm starting to put it back together that I'm really appreciating just what Vogue SE means. It really does have something over the run of the mill RR

Thanks lads. Oh hey did anyone recognise that door loom connector in the kick panel? 

 

Edited by Shackleton

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Damn, it really hurt seeing you hit that rot...

LR isn't shy to leave unused connectors around, maybe for uprated speakers or something? I'd zip tie it somewhere instead of letting it rattle there though ;)

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Nearly there George, keep going.

I'd be tempted to put some sticky back foam on the inside of those footwell trim panels. The plastic connectors vibrating against them will drive you mad.

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Nightmare, and kudos to you George.

I know the message from your Series is kind of ‘just keep going’ - but I remember my Dad saying there are times when you’re better just shutting the door and leaving it.

I’ve a couple of old motorbikes that are fighting me every step of the way to getting them done. One of them in particular has a way of breaking my heart at every opportunity. I almost hate it at the moment.

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