Hercu

Disco 1 front Propshaft Phasing

17 posts in this topic

Need some help with Phasing

I had a double cardan fitted after lifting the disco 2''. It worked well and no vibrations experienced.

The universals got worn and serious vibrations on torque, and I have sent it to the nearest Propshaft centre (400 km away) and these guys decided to remove the Cardan and fit a wide angle yoke, Somewhere the message was lost....!!!!

With the cost and distance, my hands were cut and needed to except this "FU".

I am a week away from my anual holidays and plan a fishing trip wich involves  beach driving launching the jet ski.The road also demands heavy 4 x 4.

Phasing or out phasing will help for this trip... I see 22.5 degrees is the norm but very vague on what direction, meaning plus or minus from drive side.

Do I advance 22.5 deg or reverse. (1 spline or 2 splines)????

 

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I'm embarrassed,  I've just gone through my hard copy of the workshop manual and while it shows the front propshaft offset it fails to give a quantum.

 When one Universal joint is horizontal and vertical the other one in the drawing appears to be at roughly 45' to it, if you say thats 22.5 degrees I have no way of doubting you but it does seem to be greater than that and the figure of 30 degrees is in my mind from somewhere. As for which end I dont think it matters so long as the shaft has been balanced as the off-set is purely to give greater flexibility on the front suspension. .  

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Hi Boydi and Red.. Thank you for the reply's 

Boydi yes, It is a preference thing and trial and error is the best way to do...

I worked on splines and counted ........ 16 x 22.5 = 360ᵒ

I notched mine at 2 (45ᵒ) splines out of phase with the T/Case universal leading and had a heavy load drive without vibration but a seious whine from 40 kph to 110 kph + on the pull.

Red,  I have read the mentioned post, wrote my thread, and read the post again and eventaually got the hang of it... Thank you...

( Sorry for late Feedback but had a wonderfull weekend fishing )

One lesson learned, I will never lift a vehicle again...Go for bigger tires and rims, do the camel cut yes, but a body lift is a waste and nothing to gain... just a lot off other geometrical problems. The Diff clearance stays exactly the same...!!!

 

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Welcome to the Land Rover learning curve 😊

Mo

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Thanks Mo,

Yup.... and an empty wallet but I love my Landy...!!

In South Africa the Currency is Rand ....Change the L and R in Land Rover and you get ...Rand Lover...!!

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A double cardan is only required for over 3" lifts, overkill for 2".

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On the subject of UJ's and propshafts, any ideas why the TDi gets a rubber coupling on the rear propshaft, but the V8 has a proper UJ (D1) ?

Surely it couldn't have been a cost saving exercise ?

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On 4/13/2017 at 5:56 AM, hangover said:

A double cardan is only required for over 3" lifts, overkill for 2".

Totally excepted, but very nice to have.....!

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On 4/22/2017 at 9:56 PM, Sabre said:

On the subject of UJ's and propshafts, any ideas why the TDi gets a rubber coupling on the rear propshaft, but the V8 has a proper UJ (D1) ?

Surely it couldn't have been a cost saving exercise ?

Surely not a saving,,,I chucked mine very early in my TDi 1 Land Rover ownership...Fitted proper UJ's

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In North America all the V8 Discovery 1s had the rubber coupling.

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On 25/04/2017 at 2:55 AM, Red90 said:

In North America all the V8 Discovery 1s had the rubber coupling.

Same in AUS, i swapped mine to a uni shaft after the 3rd coupling shredded.

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My 95 RRC Tdi has the same rotoflex coupling on the rear diff.  It gives a smoother drive, absorbing vibration and engine pulses.  It is less robust than standard UJs, though, so some folk will retrofit a UJ.  It was only used on the 300Tdi era RRC and higher spec Discovery, never the low spec Discovery or Defender.

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On 4/28/2017 at 9:13 AM, Snagger said:

My 95 RRC Tdi has the same rotoflex coupling on the rear diff.  It gives a smoother drive, absorbing vibration and engine pulses.  It is less robust than standard UJs, though, so some folk will retrofit a UJ.  It was only used on the 300Tdi era RRC and higher spec Discovery, never the low spec Discovery or Defender.

Thanks Snagger, good to know my Disco is "up-market"  :lol:

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I've had 3 Soft dash/300 series Range rovers and i think they should all have the rubber coupling.  The problem, most noticeable with the V8, is that when it's worn, repalcing the doughnut alone won't sort it out, there is a bush in the driveshaft to support the coupling, unlike a true Rotoflex.

That said, in good condition they work perfectly and are supposed to absorb drivetrain noise etc as already said.

 

 

Also, having had a 2" lift I'd have to say the Cardan joint from a TD5 makes a huge difference, that was with castor correction fitted though.

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R/R Blues....Yes..The Double Cardan really makes a huge difference...I had the castor correction bushes fitted but In South Africa very difficult to find. 

Eventually I V cut the raduis arms and reweld to have the same effect as the correction bushes and fitted normal Terrafirma bushes.

I also changed to UJ after the third Rotoflex coupler Shredded that bad that I actually lost my propshaft at 80 kmh downhill.(I thought the Landy struck a landmine) and yes surely that " clunck" was never heard with the coupler.

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Ah yes, all the cars we've had with the rubber coupling weren't lifted.  2 are on air and the other is our family car.  The one that gets off-roaded, well very little of it is original anyway.

I don't imagine the doughnut likes running at large angles for very long at all.

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