Peaklander Posted April 17, 2017 Author Share Posted April 17, 2017 Let me have a think and a wander to my local garage tomorrow. If either thinking or the garage doesn't work then Vulcan I will take you up on your kind offer - thank you very much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 You make a good point about being occupied with undoing the bolt that you didn't consider any difficulty in doing it back up again correctly - this is what I think when people recommend undoing the bolt by resting a bar against the chassis while filcking the engine over on the starter, it only addresses half of the problem. If you take up Vulcan's offer, it will make the job a breeze. I bought the tool when my local garage said they used to lock the flywheel using a chisel on the ring gear. If anyone in the Southwest is doing this job and needs to borrow the locking tool, send me a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted April 18, 2017 Author Share Posted April 18, 2017 (edited) 11 hours ago, Eightpot said: No, you won't break the ring gear, for one its very strong, second the leverage is much less at the ring gear than on the bolt. Locking the crank through the transmission does work but the tyres ultimately absorb a good bit of the torque. Locking the flywheel makes a much easier job of it, Don't know if it was the Shredded Wheat this morning but I thought I'd try to use this method even though I don't have a second pair of hands available. I pulled the engine round to a compression position and managed to hold a screwdriver into a tooth, wedging it on the compression by reaching up and pulling it round a tad with a rachet. Then marked the bolt head and pulled it by 45 deg on a 50cm 1/2" bar which started to bend near the knuckle. After that I put a piece of pipe over it and just managed to get to to 90 without the bar snapping. I think that as the pipe touched the bar at the joint it maybe took some of the turning force. Anyway it is now at 90. Thanks to everyone for helpful suggestions and guidance! Hi Monkie - thanks for your post too. Yes that's all I was thinking about! Hopefully anyone reading this in the future will get a prompt that they have to think about the task at the end! Edited April 18, 2017 by Peaklander Added Monkie's reference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 It's always worth cleaning the threads in the pulley before going mad with the bolts supplied with the locking bar/tool, Think it's a M8 tap but others will confirm. I've done mine and others a few times now, and the time between belt changes allows rust and crud to build up on crank pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 Fill the holes with a smudge of grease afterwards 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted April 19, 2017 Author Share Posted April 19, 2017 Greased! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 Yeah that 90deg takes a lot of effort. I had the crank tool from ebay and a 3/4 breaker bar with a pipe on the end. Just about got there - the 1/2 breaker bar just wasn't up to the job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted April 23, 2017 Author Share Posted April 23, 2017 I cut a pipe long enough to just clear the ceiling and only just managed to not break the 1/2" bar. As i said, I think that the pipe acted in part, down near the joint and so prevented some of the twist. Still it was a fingers out of the way moment as I pulled it down towards the nearside wing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 I do think it helps for anyone doing this if you can do the 90 deg in one movement - or failing this do a bit, then restart, but aim to complete in the second movement. I think the further you are on, the harder it is to restart. So if you have a limited movement, do say 30 deg, then reset and finish in one, rather than have to stop and do the the last 10 deg. I use a torque multiplier and it still makes me wonder whether the breaker bar will break. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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