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2.5na oil filter housing assembly leak


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Ok guys, just looking for a bit of reassurance before I attempt to replace an O ring on the oil filter housing. After all the work recently and the engine all nice and clean, I noticed I'm getting a drip of oil onto my prop shaft and it's runnng down the oil filter too.

so I ran the engine to heat up and noticed a leak at the diamond shaped plate on the housing. ETC5347

tried to tighten the bolts a tad with a little joy but after a good run, the leak is back. So...... is it just a simple case of plate off and new O ring inserted? I'm assuming not much oil should come out due to it been resting a while now? 

 

Thanks !!

 

DC

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?? Mo it's killing me !! Just when I think I've got them all, boom ! ? 

 

I took a leap leap of faith and when in, I'll try get a picture up but Photobucket is playing up ?

 

Viton O rings are coming in very handy indeed . I also did the rocker cover gasket as it was leaking too !! Now I've done the transfer box oil, the gearbox ATF, new seals on those too. Sure to god that's it?? ??

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bb85cda52d6fb472f6d8ef2e90b7441b.jpg

 

this is the part, the diamond plate has an O ring behind it.....

 

Here's the old and new, suppose it's done well for 30 odd years..... 

 

55f6b08a3325b10add5e60ca57f79aa7.jpg

 

 

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Well I'm just back a test drive to the coast, looks under and...... drip drip drip !! Not coming from the bellhousing though so the new Dowty rear crankshaft seal seems to be doing its job. Not coming from the oil filter housing with new o ring, not coming from the new Rocker cover gasket.... seems to be from the back of the lift pump? Haha and I thought I wouldn't have anymore leaks !!  Landy's ..... gotta luv em

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Cleaned the breather when the engine was out Snagger,no loss of water at all so would imagine head gasket is doing ok. I think it's a case of just very poor maintenance over the years. It's no way near as bad as it was for sure. I'll get the lift pump done when I've got time. 

After a good clean of the engine, I can see it seems to be diesel seaping down the right hand side. I couldn't get into clean right at the very back so I reckon it's mixing with that old gunk back there and trickling down. 

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I don't know where the received wisdom of a failed head gasket always causing water loss came from, but it is a common misconception.  Gasket failure may cause oil consumption, water consumption, neither or both.  It all depends on where it fails.  Cracked pistons can cause oil burning, but frequently just result in crank case compression, and I had exactly that on a 12J that forced oil out of several gaskets and seals despite a clear breather.  Since you seem stuck in a loop of replacing seals and gaskets one after another, I'd suggest you have a similar problem.

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Would oil burning not give off smoke through the exhaust? 

Thanks for the suggestion though, I'll keep it in mind, if you seen the state of the old gaskets so far, the old O rings in your hand, the old oil. The diff oil, the transfer box oil and the gearbox ATF, you'd see how poorly maintained it's been. 

That’s not to mention the "crank pulley saga" from last year were there was no crankshaft bolt to secure the pulleys on ??? 

Poor old "Doug" is in need of plenty of TLC ....... one by one I'm getting there. I'm enjoying the challenge. 

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Not if the oil is not getting into the combustion process - my suspicion is that you are getting compression and combustion gasses into the crank case, not oil into the bores.  I had the same thing on my 12J - cracked pistons didn't cause any oil burn, but oil was pushed out of the crank seals, rear right corner of the head gasket, rocker cover, the oil filter housing gasket and below the brake vacuum pump.  Replacing the cracked pistons stopped the oil loss.  Worn bores and rings or a fault in the gasket between the bores and valve push rod holes could produce exactly the same results.

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Thanks for the info Snagger, truly appreciate it. If you had said that last July to me I would have "pat my shants" , but getting to know more and more, it's not as scary IF this needs to be the way forward. ?

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Sounds a lot like mine, oil leaks everywhere, fixed a few of them had the head off and sorted that but it still blows oil into the air cleaner.

Not really worth a full stripdown and rebore because it would still only be 67bhp, I just drive it and if anything major goes wrong with the engine I would look for a TDI to go in.

Still worth you doing the head though as it's not really that big a job and made a big difference to how well mine ran.

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That depends on how you use the vehicle and what you want from it.  The Tdi makes it far easier to drive in terms of power and acceleration, but it's a hell of a lot noiser and harsher, with much more cab vibration, than the 12J.  If you have no need to go fast and are content with the 12J performance, rebuilding that is far cheaper and simpler than rebuilding a Tdi and then converting the vehicle to take it.  Throwing a second hand engine in on blind faith, as opposed to rebuilding it first, is imprudent given the age and mileage of Tdis now.  But, as you say, rebuilding the current engine would be a waste if a replacement is on the cards too.

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There is no plans to replace the current engine to a 200tdi, however, interestingly enough, a friend has recently put a 200 TDI in his series. He has left out the T..... and put the DI in. I've never heard of that before. He's happy with the results so far (been 7 months)  ...... 

if my attempts to stop the leaks fail after doing the gaskets etc, options are to rebuild or send it away for rebuild. I do like this 12J very much. 

 

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This is probably where your friend got the idea from:

http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/200di.htm

I'm in total agreement with Snagger's statement of not throwing in a second hand engine on blind faith.There is a further rebuild option: If you have the room, get a second hand 12J engine to rebuild (you can still get a perfectly good 12J  really quite cheap as people rip them out for a Tdi) so that you still have your land rover running while you take your time and rebuild the second engine - it takes the pressure off a bit and will stop you rushing the job and also allows you to spread the cost out if funds are tight.

I think the head gasket is certainly worth doing first. It's dead easy to do on a 12J, it will also allow you to get a good look at the condition of the head, piston crowns and cylinder bores while you are there.

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That "200DI" option works fairly well in a SII or SIII if you are happy with the original performance - it is reputed to give similar performance but with double the mpg or better and easier starting.  You also don't need to worry about overstressing the transmission like you can with the turbo fitted.  I'm not sure it'd pull the gearing of a 90 or 110, though, and the later vehicles are a little heavier too.  I've never known anyone to fit a 200DI to a coiler, though, so I really don't know how it would drive and just assuming it'd be slower than the 12J.

I went from a 12J, which I rebuilt, to a 200Tdi, also rebuilt before installation and just as well; on pulling the brand new looking head, I found a very badly scored bore and piston from a half-arsed seizure repair.  On that experience, I'd never fit a second hand engine to a vehicle without opening it up first.

The Tdi is far easier to drive, but there is a significant penalty in noise and idling vibration.  The hardest part of the conversion was the plumbing of the air and water systems, but fitting one in a 90 or 110 should be simpler as you can replicate a Defender.  Of course, that means using a Defender engine, which is harder to find than a Discovery engine and correspondingly dearer.  So, if you're happy with the 12J, it may work better to keep it.  If you're lucky, there might be minimal or no bore damage and the pistons may be fine too - if you're lucky it could just be the head gasket, but you'd need to have the head checked for flatness, pressure tested, have the valves, seats and guides inspected and check the bores and pistons.  I have been told that oil burn on start up, idling and on over-run means head issues and oil burn when the engine is slogging means pistons, rings or bores.  I didn't see any smoke from that engine, and it didn't use much, just made a mess from seals and gaskets like yours, but I found all four pistons cracked all the way across their crowns.

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I have heard of people fitting the DI option to a LHD vehicle, where the steering column goes right through the turbo otherwise :)

Think it was mentioned on here by a crazy Dane...

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3 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

I have heard of people fitting the DI option to a LHD vehicle, where the steering column goes right through the turbo otherwise :)

Think it was mentioned on here by a crazy Dane...

I think so too - I think there are few members with them, but I can't remember who.  I knew someone called Jayhoe on another forum that did it on an 88", and he was very pleased with it.  The negativity about the conversion seems mostly to come from people who haven't tried it.  I'd be interested in hearing the view of someone who did it to a coiler.

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Turbo location - 200TDI Disco is low mounted, 200TDI is high mounted, 300TDI Disco or Defender is high mounted.

Timing cases differ as well as front end accessory locations.

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