Air Con Condenser swap P38 diesel

[Blanco]

Ok so had the P38 a couple of weeks now and getting down to fixing its only known fault when purchased, A/C not working, got the thing tested and the condenser is leaking.

Mine is a late model diesel so the 'short' condenser is no longer available. The best alternative seems to be the earlier pattern 'deep' condenser, for which the mounts are still there, the unknown being the pipework. I had a conversation with an 'expert' at Rimmers and he said that if I went that route then I would need to physically alter (as opposed to swap)  pipes.

Looking at Rave the dryer seems to be in the same location whether V8 or diesel so I guess that the pipe for that could come from anything pre YA prefix.

The other pipe goes to the compressor which is in different locations depending on V8 or diesel, but is there any reason why this pipe can't be sourced from an early diesel?

Anyone looked at this before me?

If pipes have to be altered are there any good dodges for doing it on the cheap? Snap  shows the short condenser removed, its mount is at the bottom of the oil cooler.

Any ideas gratefully received.

[supaimpy]

decent ac guy will be able to adapt the hoses  or remake , you will need to find someone to evacuate and re gas anyway and the length of time you've had the system open you will need a replacement drier. Coldchain in Naas  would probably be able to help.

[Blanco]

Thanks for that supaimpy, I didn't realise the dryer would be compromised. Regas can be done locally, there is a Pole with an all in one auto 'dalek' just down the road which seemed to work  well for the leak finding and so on. If it comes to cutting hoses up I'll give Coldchain a shout.

I suppose most people with  this model just accept the loss of the A/C?

[Blanco]

Well, finally sorted this out, you need; (assuming yours to be like mine)

Pipe from compressor to condenser (up to 99) AWR5075 Genuine only.

Condenser (up to 99) STC3679, I used Nissens  94257.

Receiver dryer AWR1374 (optional), I used Nissens 95223

a couple of green A/C O-rings.

To install it you need to get rid of the old mounting, the tray unbolts from below but the bracket is welded. I used a dremel style grinder with a slitting disc to remove them in situ.

The hardest part is replacing the old compressor pipe, in hindsight I should have left all the rad and such off (water leak repair) till the A/C pipe turned up but I thought it was doable..... it was but access is a swine. Also the new pipe has an open port on it, you need to swap over the excess  pressure valve from the old pipe.

On the other side  the dryer, is awkward if you have the transmission oil cooler like I do, it has to be dropped down on its hoses to access the bolts.

The little bolts for the fan are more accessible and I was tempted just to remove the fan but they are severely corroded and so small I went for the whole mount.

The pressure switch you see on the dryer doesn't come with it and mine was really tough to remove and clean up, if I were to do another I would buy that as well. The problem is alloy corrosion/weakness.

Just visible above if you look closely the collar is beginning to split, I cleaned it up inside with 400 wet and dry and hope its fine (not tested yet!) but it took time and care to do. By the way when the dryer is delivered, those caps you see are pressure caps it has a bit of positive pressure in it to maintain the dessicant, obviously you have to remove the caps to fit the pipes but leave it till the last moment to make sure no unnecessary moisture gets in.

The new Pipe comes with new O-rings but where you are refitting old pipes you will need new O-rings in my case the two ends of  the short pipe between the dryer and condenser and the outlet that goes off round the engine bay.

The new condenser is in, you need to find bolts and fixings as they are all different. The top bolts to the intercooler that's easy, and  I made spacers out of rubber hose. The bottom mounts have locating pins still in place but no clue as to what the brackets might have been. It would help here to have an older model as a reference (or even to rob the bits from in the first place). Until I find one I have used tie wraps at the bottom just to hold it onto the pins. The fan mounts are also different, you'll need 4 M6 set screws and large washers.

Well I am off this morning to get it tested and re-gassed, so far I have spent €336 on the A/C ! more than I meant to but you could do it for a lot less with a donor vehicle and if you lived somewhere where you didn't have to get absolutely everything couriered to you. Two weeks off the road, mainly waiting on bits, for this!

As a footnote the new pipe AWR5075, I don't think it is stocked anywhere anymore and has to be ordered in from LR whoever supplies it. I got the best price from LR Series, but had to wait. C'est la vie..... Rob

 

 

[Davo]

Just a note: aircon parts actually have a vacuum inside them, in order to keep them dry. Apparently you have about fifteen minutes to leave a new drier open until it's no good, so yes, it's the last thing you put on. You should then pull down the system with a vacuum pump as soon as possible to get any moisture out. You're also supposed to remove the compressor, dump the oil out, (because it can absorb water), and replace the oil. What a headache! 

I know what you mean about the time and expense. I built an entirely new system and it was a huge job. Good on you for sticking with it! 

[Blanco]

Thanks Davo, I could hear the gas and I guessed it was a dry, possibly inert charge but a vacuum would have sounded the same I guess. Passed the vac test and gassed up, ice cold at last..... Handbook symbol is still on the display though, is that a 'reset' job, or is it a sign that something needs looking at still?

[David Sparkes]

From memory of a few years ago, mainly centred around failed blend flap motors, the handbook symbol is turned off when the car is switched off. When the car is restarted the symbol will be off, and will only be re-illuminated when the fault condition re-occurs, so, in your words, it's  "a sign that something needs looking at still".

I suggest starting the car and setting the temperature controls to HI. This setting overrides any automated responses. Switch off the car, then restart, preferably do this in the morning, after the vehicle has cooled down overnight. The handbook display is hopefully off, and stays off. Leave running for a few minutes, then turn the temperature on one side only down below HI and wait a few minutes to see the result. If the handbook illuminates it is probably something to do with that side of the car.

Reset both controls to HI, repeat the test, but this time lower the temperature on the other side of the car.
If the handbook illuminates also, then either both sides have the same fault (blend flap motors) or there is a common problem elsewhere, and we can re-evaluate depending on what operational short-comings you find.

Regards.

[Blanco]

All good!, Just been out this afternoon, and the handbook symbol has gone. Tried the above scheme to see if one side or other produces anything and can't seem to get it back. Happy with that

[gfc]

Hi @Blanco.. 

Dublin based and literally about to start this very job, the biggest confusion I have is around the awr5075 hose.... 

I have a breaker who has one but I'm getting conflicting details on what it looks like?

Thanks

G

[western]

Hose AWR5075

[gfc]

Thanks @western but the issue I have is I'm told that whilst that is the correct OEM part number that is not the correct hose...

[Blanco]

Just to confirm for @gfc, AWR5075 is the part number (👍@western) but the  catalogue images are confusing. You can see bits of my new AWR 5075 in the bumper off pic above and it actually goes right across the front of the cross member and along the RH chassis rail back to the compressor. It doesn't as the catalogue pic suggests dive in round the front of the rads. HTSH

[western]

The photo maybe generic, would be best to actually look at the item under that part number.