TheKeymeister Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 From the info gleaned from a Hawkeye, it appears the MAF sensor on my 2005 Td4 Freelander 1 is about knackered. No fault codes are present, but the live data shows a reading of 468mg/stroke at tickover, increasing to a whopping 505mg/stroke at 2500rpm. I've unplugged the MAF and checked again, which seems to make it start at a base value of 500mg/stroke increasing with rpm and it now runs much better than it did before. I have noticed whilst the MAF is unplugged, I have three fault codes:- P0100 Air flow meter short circuit to ground or open load (as expected) P0110 Air Temperature Sensor Signal out of range P1110 No text allocated for this code Live data also shows the inlet air temperature as a constant -40*C. I'm not sure if this has happened because the MAF is unplugged, as I also had a boost pipe split right next to the IAT sensor yesterday which covered everything in oil and the electrical connection may be suspect. I will tomorrow try and reconnect the MAF and see if the temperature sensor codes go away. I have tried to check RAVE to see how the IAT is wired up to the ECU but to no avail, I have an early version of RAVE which is from before the separate IAT sensor came in, and the only later version I can find of RAVE is for NAS vehicles and only shows the KV6 engine. I would be interested to know what this sensor does if it does not replace the sensor in the MAF per the previous vehicles. I've done a bit of reading and it seems a Pierburg MAF is a better replacement than the original Bosch but it does not include an IAT sensor so needs an additional box of tricks (Synergy tuning box) to make it work. I am wondering if this still applies to my vehicle as it has a separate IAT sensor in the intercooler pipe at the front of the engine. I could do without the additional expense of a Synergy box at the moment if possible, but at the same time I don't want to spend pennies on a cheap eBay sensor that will last a month, so ideally I would like to fit the Pierburg if it is indeed a more robust solution. Many thanks in advance for any advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 IATs, where a hotwire MAF is employed, is very often built into the MAF, I would say this is your 'issue' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 13 hours ago, TheKeymeister said: I've done a bit of reading and it seems a Pierburg MAF is a better replacement than the original Bosch but it does not include an IAT sensor so needs an additional box of tricks (Synergy tuning box) to make it work. No no no, ignore that guy and just fit the right MAF. He's selling the wrong MAF then selling you a box of magic gubbins to try and "fix" it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKeymeister Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 Thanks for the replies, A bit more research reveals Pierburg now manufacture a drop in replacement that doesn't require any nonsense to fix it, part number is 7.22684.11.0, and their site confirms it is compatible with a Freelander Td4 and lists MHK101130 as an equivalent part number which all stacks up, see here - https://onlineshop.ms-motorservice.com/msi/MSICD?lang=E&page=showLUVGDetail&ksnr=7.22684.11.0&stacklevel=0&hisdir=fwd The dilemma is, the Bosch one is only about a tenner more expensive, so I suppose it depends whether the Pierburg is indeed more robust or it's a bit of a selling tactic by the bloke who sells the magic boxes. A quick Google does turn up many threads from various different forums (not LR ones) bigging up the Pierburg, maybe I will take a punt. After changing the carb on my 2.8 Cortina from a Pierburg to a Weber, it seems wrong to 'upgrade' to a Pierburg item! I haven't got round to plugging the current failed MAF back in to see if it starts reading inlet air temp again, but I will find this out and report back either way, it does seem a bit coincidental though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konrad96 Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 For what it's worth, I just bought a 2006 td4 freelander 1 and replaced the MAF sensor with a new Bosch one. The car had been sluggish up to 2000 revs, after which it went fine. After fitting the new MAF, the car feels like new - springs away from a standstill with ease. Can't believe the difference. I had been looking up all the Pierburg data beforehand but Land Rover paid a technical research and design team a lot of money to specify the Bosch, so that was what I went for in the end. My reasoning is that if it lasted 11 years from new, my replacement Bosch will do me for the remaining life of the car. BTW when refitting best to fit the bottom torx screw through the hole in the wing behind the front drivers side wheel - access is easy that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKeymeister Posted June 16, 2017 Author Share Posted June 16, 2017 Thought I'd better report back with the results... I bought the Pierburg version, fitted it, and it was awful. Flat up to 2500rpm and dangerous pulling away. I read another post that said his did the same and sorted itself out after 100 miles, but that didn't happen, tried disconnecting battery to 'reset' ECU values, but no, still exactly the same. Fortunately I was able to return the unit for a refund. The correct Bosch sensor arrived this morning so I will be fitting it tomorrow morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKeymeister Posted June 16, 2017 Author Share Posted June 16, 2017 (edited) Forgot to add, I did a bit of investigation around the function of the air temperature sensors... With the MAF unplugged and the IAT sensor at the front plugged in, I got the following codes:P0100 Air flow meter short circuit to ground or open load P0110 Air Temperature Sensor Signal out of range With the MAF plugged in and the IAT sensor at the front unplugged, I got this code:P1110 No text allocated for this code With the MAF and IAT sensor at the front both plugged in, I got no codes. The Hawkeye I was using does not display any live data from the front IAT sensor so unless the Hawkeye isn't clever enough to see what it does, who knows what its function is! Edited June 16, 2017 by TheKeymeister Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony64 Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 Got the same problem with my TD4 dangerously flat until it eventually gets to 2200rpm. Unplugged the maf and its much better. Changed the maf for one from a supplier and it was worse. Took it to a garage who said I had bought a cheap maf at £52.00 and that was the problem. He then fitted another maf but this only made it slightly better but still not right. Just found out he didn't install a bosch maf so wondering if this is the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 Check the other easy stuff - turbo hoses not split, turbo actuator moving as expected, actuator vacuum pipe not rubbed through or fallen off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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