FigJam Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 (edited) So I have a ex Royal Mail 90 2.5n/a Defender, chassis has been refurbed as it was in a sorry state (last on the road 2003). I managed to pick up a Discovery 2 (2000) from a military chap who had polybushed, updated suspension etc. and bobtailed it. So it's going to be the Donor, I have read through some fantastic posts regarding engine mounts etc. Exhaust down pipe etc. what I understand is that the axles will swap straight over, I can live with the R380 sitting further back, my question is the 90 prop looks a different figment type to the Disco and is obviously longer, what rear prop an I looking for to fit? Edited May 20, 2017 by FigJam . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 Um..... thats not a d2 chassis... its a d1 300tdi..... Anyway. Yes. Axles and suspension arms will swap straight over.... the original dront arms may not fit the disco axle so just use the disco ones..... The discovery will have a 3 bolt flange on the diff end... you'll need to change the flange and get a suitable prop... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L90-v8 Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 why don't you remove the rear 3 bolt diff an fit a 4bolt diff they are easy to get hold of and fit a set of defender 300 tdi props Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 That would be the ideal.... assuming the engine mounts go on the right place for a factory 300.... the seatbox will be cut anyway unless he plans on fitting a defender gearlever or adaptor.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L90-v8 Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 ive never done it myself but it should fit as 300 tdi and td5 defenders used r380 gearboxs and they had a long bell housings like a discovery the 200 disco conversion is a bit more involved as the disco an defender use different parts its still a straight forward job if something don't fit get the welder out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 It will certainly work... its been done numerous times... The key to futureproofing the vehicle is to fit the engine in factory position... that way bits are easier..... You can but 300mounts with a jig to llne it up.... If you use the disco gearbox as it is the main lever willcome up through the front of the seatbox.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FigJam Posted May 21, 2017 Author Share Posted May 21, 2017 Thank you very much for the replies and the clarification on Disco series ?? The master plan was to fit the axles to my chassis, lower the engine & gearbox in and line it up and chalk the chassis for perfect alignment of the engine mounts. I'm going to carefully plasma the mounts off the defender as there in good condition. as for gearstick / control positions I'm happy to locate these closer. Can I just say that I'm very impressed with this forum, there's seems to be proper advice, great communication and some right knowledgable buggers compared to some other forums ??? L90-V8 thanks, you've answered my question that's most relevant to my current stage of the rebuild ? Regards kenny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L90-v8 Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 in theory if you fit 300 tdi props and use 300 tdi transferbox/gearbox mounts the engine should be in the correct place if you go on Richards chassis website an click defender I'm sure there is pics of all the different types of mounts and where they are if you know someone with a late defender genuine workshop manual there should be chassis measurements in there 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 I have/had a 1986 110 2.5 na which I put a 300tdi defender engine into. Used the LT77 by cutting the center out of the 110 flywheel casing allowing me to bolt the 300 to the LT77 and no bolts left out. Cutting out the center lets you use the 300 seal on the output shaft. Made up a down pipe from 2 x 90 degree bends welded together. one engine mount will work ok the other needs made. Doing it this way no props needed to be changed the gear and trans levers stay the same. If yours is not a galvanised chassis you have this option. Good Luck 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L90-v8 Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 (edited) theres another option keep your na diesel transfer/gearbox mounts keep the original props the original floor pan and original seat box bolt the box in an weld the tdi engine mounts to suit its probably not the right way to do it but I did the v8 conversion that way an got away with it all my electrics an hoses reached and I even had enough room to fit a genuine round type air filter behind the engine Edited May 23, 2017 by L90-v8 pic added 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/diy-rebuild-kits/r380-rebuild-kits/selector-rail-adapter-yolk.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.