retropower Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 Well, a few more bits done! I never want to build up another Range Rover door from scratch that much I do know! Doors, quarters, rear corners, lower tailgate, fuel flap, roof and sunroof panel all now painted. Roof fitted but not sunroof yet. Tailgate fitted but discovered that my lovely new one isn’t a straightforward fit as they changed in ‘89 when they went to steel boot floor! Mine is ally floor ‘89 and tailgate is ‘91. Nothing too serious just a bit more work as usual!! first off a load of bits bead blasted ready for zinc plating. Had to laugh at the letters on the panhard rod bracket steady forging!!! I had two and the other was a different code so picked this one!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retropower Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 Starting to refit a few panels!!! Finally! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retropower Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 Tailgate painted, great to have a completely rust free one, less great that it doesn’t fit properly, but not too much to sort it. Also zincy hinges as I didn’t like the stock painted finish! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 Oh My God Really inspiring! Keep up the beautiful work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Good progress I assume you sent the parts out for plating, otherwise it would have taken ages to plate that lot. I considered getting one of those diy kits for the few parts I have that are plated, but haven’t made up my mind yet. cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 4 hours ago, SteveG said: .... I considered getting one of those diy kits for the few parts I have that are plated, but haven’t made up my mind yet. Steve, I did buy one of those DIY kits from Gateros Plating. I followed the instructions carefully, but I think I need to spend a bit more time practicing to get more consistent results. I plated all the external bracketry of a Hotwire V8 throttle assembly. The shine is lacking on some, but rust proofness has been a success judging by the these parts, and the test items I left outside. Being able to plates just one or two brackets or an odd spec screw as required is certainly a bonus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 4 hours ago, mickeyw said: Steve, I did buy one of those DIY kits from Gateros Plating. I followed the instructions carefully, but I think I need to spend a bit more time practicing to get more consistent results. I plated all the external bracketry of a Hotwire V8 throttle assembly. The shine is lacking on some, but rust proofness has been a success judging by the these parts, and the test items I left outside. Being able to plates just one or two brackets or an odd spec screw as required is certainly a bonus. Thanks, I may give it a go then. cheers, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retropower Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 I bought a plating kit a few years back and got on well for a few parts but it quickly went downhill and keeping the conditions correct particularly for the passivating is a major pain. The plating company we use now are so cheap that it’s not worth messing about. I normally send batches of around 750 parts and they charge £50 to do the lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retropower Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 Ps I did keep the kit for odd bolts etc when we needed them but these days we send a batch most weeks anyway so it’s not worth having. The chemical disposal is also an issue to do “correctly” Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Lovely job, good info on the plating also. Keep it going. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 Very inspiring this - please keep it coming !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retropower Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 (edited) Few more bits done today! Not the most photogenic, and in my usual style, none of the best bits have pictures!! First job, one of the first bits of interior to go in is the heater unit. Had a peek at it and sure enough it needed work! All the foam on all the various flaps etc had turned very brittle and would turn to dust when touched, so I completely dismantled the unit, refaced all the moving parts with 3mm or 6mm neoprene foam and then cleaned and pressure tested then painted the matrix, then re-assembled it all. Found that the fan rotor was loose on the motor shaft which made me very glad to have stripped it down as finding a friction drive fan after putting the full interior in would have been a major kick in the nuts!!! Edited January 6, 2018 by retropower Add text Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retropower Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 (edited) Got the front floor and tunnel dynamatted, then fitted the front wiring loom loosely as it goes behind the heater (for once, this is almost completely intact and in perfect condition!!) and the heater. Then dug out the pedal box, replaced the clutch pedal return spring with a disco one robbed from spare disco pedal box and disco servo and master cyl which are in perfect nick. Fitted the column/dash support then got the loom all roughly routed and relays all clipped up etc. Chucked the dash top on ready to start on that and column there ready to fit. Felt like a good progress day after a slow start with the strip and rebuild of the heater! Ah yes just remembered I fitted the “new” replacement wiper motor and linkage too! Edited January 6, 2018 by retropower Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrisDR Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Fantastic job. A few questions if you don't mind: Why did you take the front/nose section off when you did the blasting and zinc coating? No issues with warping? Is this better than acid dipping? How was the build up exactly? Zinc coating + Raptor (?) + Urethane paint (what kind?) Many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retropower Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 I took the front off very early on (it was all pretty rotten as they usually are!) and just haven’t properly pit the new one on, it has been changed to bolt-on. I’m fitting the engine etc before it goes back on. No issues with warping (we do a lot of blasting on delicate classic cars etc). We don’t like acid dipping for several reasons, mainly that it doesnt really dig into serious rot and can leave very thin steel that looks ok but is seriously weakened. A good number of the uk top restoration companies agree with us on that one (jaguar Land Rover heritage for one) the coating sequence is blast to SA2.5, zinc flame spray, zinc phosphate etch prime, raptor coat (2k urethane truck bed liner thinned and sprayed with primer gun) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 I heard some rally teams etc. actually acid-dip new bodyshells to lighten them. Of course they then immediately weld a massively strong cage in so no big deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retropower Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 7 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: I heard some rally teams etc. actually acid-dip new bodyshells to lighten them. Of course they then immediately weld a massively strong cage in so no big deal. Not quite like that, but sort of! They do “dip” shells but that process isn’t just dipping and is more to remove weight by removing all sealants etc. They bake them in an oven then jetwash then phosphoric acid dip to remove any rust. No acid process removes sealer etc, some places use a hot caustic dip to do this but most use a pyrolysis oven. The “dip” you used to see on American hot rod tv show was actually caustic not acid as said on the program. The big thing with rally car shells etc is that after cleaning, they are regularly dismantled, many pressings removed from hollow areas and then put back together before the cage fabrication work. This way a chunk of the weight of the cage can be off set Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrisDR Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 18 hours ago, retropower said: I took the front off very early on (it was all pretty rotten as they usually are!) and just haven’t properly pit the new one on, it has been changed to bolt-on. I’m fitting the engine etc before it goes back on. No issues with warping (we do a lot of blasting on delicate classic cars etc). We don’t like acid dipping for several reasons, mainly that it doesnt really dig into serious rot and can leave very thin steel that looks ok but is seriously weakened. A good number of the uk top restoration companies agree with us on that one (jaguar Land Rover heritage for one) the coating sequence is blast to SA2.5, zinc flame spray, zinc phosphate etch prime, raptor coat (2k urethane truck bed liner thinned and sprayed with primer gun) Thanks a lot for the feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercguy Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 I have to envy your perseverence. I just found rust along the sealer seam at the top of the bulkhead, where the firewall meets the cowl/bonnet bracket panel sheetmetal. Seriously Mildly miffed. I wonder if there are any stainless steel panel pressings available. Doubt it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 On 29/05/2017 at 6:11 PM, retropower said: All zinc metal sprayed. Can go in the sea for 20 years now and not rust! Reading this thread for the first time and am just getting to the "So in love it hurts" stage. Lovely work Sir! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gn3dr Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 Just came across this thread myself. Fabulous work as expected given the work done on the cars. Have been following your Gordon Murray Escort videos. I'm putting an OM606 turbo into a 1986 Merc S124 myself at present but I also have a RR Classic needin restoration and this is making me think seriously now about a Merc engine for that as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Lovely work , lots of diesels being retrofitted , I have a 110 with BMW 3ltr M57 , but this might be the way for the future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carloz Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 On 27-2-2018 at 10:50 AM, tacr2man said: Lovely work , lots of diesels being retrofitted , I have a 110 with BMW 3ltr M57 , but this might be the way for the future Woww! Sounds very sexy! I say let's have fun as long as we are allowed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercguy Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 On 1/24/2018 at 8:57 PM, retropower said: ...the coating sequence is blast to SA2.5, zinc flame spray, zinc phosphate etch prime, raptor coat (2k urethane truck bed liner thinned and sprayed with primer gun) Just curious about the application of the raptor coat - is it absolutely necessary to strip back to primer, or can the existing surface be sanded back? Obviously with you restoring this shell the process is going to be blast/etch/prime/coat but for those of us who don't have access to a metalized zinc application unit, the next best thing is to sand coats back sufficiently - but whether or not that has an effect on the adhesion or longevity of the applied coat is the burning question. Progress is looking great. How's it all coming along now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.