Jump to content

Prep to fit new fuel tank


Recommended Posts

Hi All,
 
Finally I got the new fuel tank shipped to Ghana :) this weekend I will fit it.
 
Any recommendations on the prep to fit it with respect to:
 
1- washing the inside of it before putting in the diesel
2- whether to paint it over the standard black paint that it comes from Bearmach
3- what to put between the tank and the stone-guard to avoid having mud and water getting stuck in the middle potentially creating rust
4-anything else you think it's worth doing
 
Thanks a lot,
 
Simone 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I painted my new tank with galvafriod paint then some coats of vehicle chassis black, my new stone guard is galvanised & it got the same paint as the tank, I used some vehicle body seam sealer in the gaps once the tank & guard were fitted to keep any road dirt/moisture out, hopefully the tank will have a long life.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heya western,
 
What generic paint shall i use to cover it? Here in Ghana I won't find any special ones like galvafroid unfortunately... It's painted now but it's already chipping off.
 
With the vehicle body seam sealer will I just seal the open ends or you think is best to cover the entire bottom of the tank and then place on top of it the cradle?
 
cheers
Link to comment
Share on other sites

a good hard wearing stone chip resistant paint would do if you can obtain some or a few coats of whatever you can get easily, up to you if you want to lay the seam sealer all over the tank bottom, I just did as above, then pushed it into the gaps & made sure they were all closed, finished off with a wet finger to form a smooth face.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To summarize what I should do in order is

1. Sand paper
2. Paint tank and cradle with stone chip paint
3. Paint tank and cradle black with epoxy spray paint
4. Apply under-body seal between tank and cradle
5. Apply polyurethane seam sealant all around cradle to close all cavities to the tank
Correct?

In terms of products, here in Ghana, there is little to nothing so I will buy these products in UK and ship out.
I found these online, can you tell me if they fit what’s required or suggest the link of what’s best?

Thanks a lot,
Simone

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Simone, if you do want to use a paint similar to Galvafroid there is a supplier of zinc-rich paint in Ghana, we've used it for painting external steel beams on buildings and also for covering welding repairs to machinery, the finish looks like galvanising once dried.

I'll ask at work where they bought it from if that helps?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's be amazing @Boris113! By the way is there a gathering of passionate LR in Ghana? It'd be cool to meet up!

@western did I understood the various steps correctly? and can you share link to good products I could use for this sparing the Galvafroid as Boris sorted me out there :)

Cheers!

Simone

Link to comment
Share on other sites

on mine I took the shine of the existing black primer finish with a nylon scouring pad, wiped it clean, a coat ofgalvafriod, & after a few days a few coats of black gloss, [vehicle chassis black paint, or a alternative should be available where you are.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/8/2017 at 10:40 PM, Wheely said:

That's be amazing @Boris113! By the way is there a gathering of passionate LR in Ghana? It'd be cool to meet up!

@western did I understood the various steps correctly? and can you share link to good products I could use for this sparing the Galvafroid as Boris sorted me out there :)

Cheers!

Simone

Hi Simone, one of our site managers said the name is Zinger, we bought gallons of the stuff from Tema but its becoming more common so somewhere in Sth Industrial should stock it dependent on where you are. It overpaints nicely with chassis black as Western said.

There are a few LR fans but not many unfortunately, we have a couple of Defenders there as works vehicles. I'm out of Ghana at present but drop me a PM and we can sort something out when I'm next back.

Harry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heya,

Thanks @Boris113! I will look for Zinger as alternative for the epoxy spray paint that will be applied after the stone chip

I found the attached TEROSON SB3110 from Henkel as stone chip paint - is this good for the job? see attached product description

Thanks a lot!

Simone

 

 

teroson.PNG

Edited by Wheely
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi @western,

took a while to explore what is available in Ghana :)  Your input would be greatly appreciated

So the plan I have settled for is:

1)      Sand-paper the tank to skim the original paint and allow prime to attach to steel (100GRIT)

2)      Prime it

3)      Light-Sand paper it (400 GRIT)

4)      Gravitex it

5)      Paint it

Point 1,3 and 4 are sorted, for point 2 and 4 I have some perplexities as it’s the first time I am exploring the ‘paints’ world and there are many choices (very confusing).

·         the primer I found is a sikkens ‘wash-primer 1K CF’ which is a one component chrome-free, self-etching primer that offers corrosion resistance without the use of metal preps and conditioners – it can be used for priming steel, galvanized steel and aluminum. http://www.sikkenscr.com/en/products/Primers/Washprimer 1K CF

Is this the right primer to use or would you recommend me to use another one? I can see online that there are etch-primers, primers,  etc… and I am not sure which one would be best for my intended use ( I guess the primer to be used also depends on the pain that will be applied on top?).

With regards to the paint to apply on top of it, Sikkens has either Base coat or Top coat (not sure the difference across the two – great if you could clarify)

·         Autobase plus (basecoat): solvent borne basecoat provides excellent coverage, metallic control and sprayability when used to duplicate OEM solid, metallic and pearl color effects. It says that this has to be used in conjuntion with a clear-coat (also available at Sikkens in either 1k or 2k variant). However in the TDS I see that this this paint cannot be applied over acid containting wash primers so it looks like I can’t use this with the washprimer that Sikkens has (?) - http://www.sikkenscr.com/en/products/Basecoats/Autobase Plus MM

·         Autocryl plus (top coat): Two-pack acrylic enamel for cars. To be used with hardener P25/35 and Plus Reducers. http://www.sikkenscr.com/en/products/Topcoats/Autocryl Plus MM

Not sure is these are fine as they look more for bodywork than for a use like the tank. Harry didn't feedback yet on the zinc-rich paint available in Ghana so I need to look some something else in the meanwhile

An interesting chassis coating paint that is the winner of the rust test of Classics Monthly 2013 is Epoxy Mastic 121 which is a is a two-pack surface tolerant high solids epoxy mastic coating. http://www.rust.co.uk/em-121-epoxy-rust-proofing-chassis-paint/c28117/ Would this be suitable for a tank? I  am going to Europe for vacation and could buy it.

Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts, much appreciated.

Simone

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today I did some further research in town and found the 2 following paints:

BASF MasterEmaco® 8100 AP: Single component epoxy based zinc rich primer for steel
Berger ZINCANODE 600: A two pack epoxy zinc rich primer.

Any thoughts on these two compared to the ones of Sikkens?

thank a bunch!

BASF.pdf

BERGER.pdf

Washprimer.pdf

S5.2.49_Autocryl Plus_AUS.pdf

TDS Sikkens Autobase Plus 041417 English.pdf

Edited by Wheely
attachments
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

Just be aware that the tank will almost certainly have open threaded inserts for the fittings in the top - the original ones will have been blind (closed end )  , you will need to put fibre sealing washers under the screws to stop diesel coming out when full or at odd angles . I've also found the guard plate to be less than perfectly formed with recent tank fits so some time making it fit before fitting makes life easier.

Is that your Truck in the avatar pic? A little write up on it would be nice with some pics if possible :)

cheers

Steve b

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are wasting time and money using zinc rich paints such as Galvafroid on top of existing paint. Proper cold galvanising paints form a chemical bond with the metal, which they cannot do if there is a layer of paint between them and it. 

The black paint used by parts manufacturers is generally a crappy spray finish. You'd be best off stripping it and starting again but if that's too much work then remving it wherever it is loose or likely to get damaged easily and the painting over the whole lot with a two part epoxy top coat will be the best solution. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, steve b said:

Hi

Just be aware that the tank will almost certainly have open threaded inserts for the fittings in the top - the original ones will have been blind (closed end )  , you will need to put fibre sealing washers under the screws to stop diesel coming out when full or at odd angles . I've also found the guard plate to be less than perfectly formed with recent tank fits so some time making it fit before fitting makes life easier.

Is that your Truck in the avatar pic? A little write up on it would be nice with some pics if possible :)

cheers

Steve b

Thanks for your tips @steve b! I am waiting to do some nice pics offroad before doing a write-up - it's a 6x4 carmichael firetruck I bought in auction in Ghana! Prepping it to do an Africa overland in some time :)

1) Do you have the part number for the fibre sealing washer? The ones I bought with the Bearmach tank are ARA1502L (https://www.lrdirect.com/ARA1502L-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-bm.html) and the locking ring ARA1501L ( https://www.lrdirect.com/ARA1501L-supplied-by-allmakes-branded-allmakes.html). 

2) your second point means to actually fit the guard plate on the tank for a while before actually fitting it so that it gets into the right shape?

Cheers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, nickwilliams said:

You are wasting time and money using zinc rich paints such as Galvafroid on top of existing paint. Proper cold galvanising paints form a chemical bond with the metal, which they cannot do if there is a layer of paint between them and it. 

The black paint used by parts manufacturers is generally a crappy spray finish. You'd be best off stripping it and starting again but if that's too much work then remving it wherever it is loose or likely to get damaged easily and the painting over the whole lot with a two part epoxy top coat will be the best solution. 

Thanks @nickwilliams for sharing your thoughts

I am sanding away the original crappy spray finish - then self-etch prime, followed by Gravitex, and to finish off paint it up --> my question is which of the paints you would recommend (I have attached the TDS as well).

Thanks!

Edited by Wheely
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been using ones from an assorted box , but I found these on www.123bearing.co.uk  part no RDL-5X9X2-FIBRE , 5mm ID 9mm OD 2mm thick , or RDL-5X10X1.5-FIBRE , 5mm ID 10mm OD 1.5mm Thick .

The last 2 or 3 tanks I have fitted on 110's the guard panel has needed more form on the curves to wrap around the front and rear to align with the mounts .

A thread on your truck would be interesting I'm sure including any overland adaptations during prep. What engine does it have ?

cheers

Steve b

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, steve b said:

I've been using ones from an assorted box , but I found these on www.123bearing.co.uk  part no RDL-5X9X2-FIBRE , 5mm ID 9mm OD 2mm thick , or RDL-5X10X1.5-FIBRE , 5mm ID 10mm OD 1.5mm Thick .

The last 2 or 3 tanks I have fitted on 110's the guard panel has needed more form on the curves to wrap around the front and rear to align with the mounts .

A thread on your truck would be interesting I'm sure including any overland adaptations during prep. What engine does it have ?

cheers

Steve b

Great stuff @steve b - the tank I have is the NRC9515 https://www.lrdirect.com/NRC9515-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-bm.html  - which of the two washers you suggested I would need? how many?

I will try to fit the guard panel now and leave it for a few days and hopefully it will go in shape - thanks a lot for the tip!

On the thread I will include the plans I have and progress made - it'll be fun as here in Ghana you gotta be very creative to get stuff done (lack of skilled labour, lack of products, ...) - Wheely had a 3.5L V8 which got spoilt and was changed onto a 200TDI before I bought it... I will see how I can upgrade it to make it last the overland trip I have in mind :)

 

 

Edited by Wheely
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They are to go under the 5 screws securing the return line fitting , discard any existing washers so the fibre washer is in direct contact between the screw and the return fitting , either washer would do the job or whatever you can source locally similar to those .

cheers

 

Steve b  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used some cable ties [ty-wraps] to hold the stone guard to my tank when I replaced it a while ago, it makes fiting the tank in place a lot less tiresome, your not juggling 2 or 3 items at once.

as for the return on the top of the tank my new pipe got one of these gaskets =LR part WGQ000020

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/98274/0/gasket_fuel_pump_to_tank___defender___range_rover_classic___discovery_1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great guys, thanks! I checked and my tank has only 2 holes (one for the hole to fill the tank and the other one to send the diesel to the engine) + 1 drain plug. So i guess I would only need 1 washer to replace the rubber one I bought (ARA1502L) that goes with the locking ring?

Any thoughts on the paints I posted earlier on?

Thanks a lot!

Simone

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy