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Prep to fit new fuel tank


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Your tank should have 5 openings

1. fuel filler rubber hose to body fill point neck

2.tank breather flexi hose to fill point neck

3. this has to be blanked off using the nut & olive from the old tank, I had to cut this down to get the tank to fit into the chassis 

4. fuel return line pipe, as we mentioned in replies above

5. fuel gauge sender unit, seal & locking ring fits this hole on tank left side, do not fit sender unit until tank is fully fitted to chassis, tank won't fit with sender fitted.

 

as for your paints, use whatever you are happy with.

ESR2243-p.jpg

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Thanks a bunch @western for this, very useful to understand what is what.

In my tank I identify all of your openings but point 4 - I have a decompression but no hole - see picture attached ( !! ) is that the standard on the NRC9515 ?

Where would the fuel return line pipe be then??

 

WP_20170723_17_36_29_Pro.jpg

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oh that's good news - I thought something was wrong with the tank I bought :S

So the one i circled in red is the fuel return then? in the pic of Western that is point 2 (tank breather flexi hose to fill point neck) - nothing else I should cross-check whilst I am at it?

a couple of quids saved on the washers then ;) no other things needed?

Thanks a lot

 Simone

WP_20170723_17_36_29_Pro2.jpg

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cool - I get it now, the one highlighted in red in this new attachment.

so for you the number 3 had to be blanked off and cut down whilst for me will be the fuel return :) - I am on the right track?

Really hope that the when I take off the old tank it will match the one I bought ( fingers crossed !!!) so that all pipes/openings etc will match... it's easy to take down, check, and fit back whilst I am waiting to paint the new tank? I am saying this as I am going back home to Italy for a week, and will do the change then, wouldn't want to come back and find that something is wrong when I could have bought whatever I would have needed back at home...

WP_20170723_17_36_29_Pro3.jpg

Edited by Wheely
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Yep to the red ringed pipe in your last photo. 

 

before removing, 

1 drain the tank

2. disconnect the fuel line to sender & remove the sender

3. disconnect the fuel filler hose from both ends

4 support the tank so it doesn't drop on you or the floor as you remove the 4 bolts, 2 at rear & 2 on front edges.

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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys,

Can't believe I am still not done with this tank! Been back and forth on many other things but I will tackle it asap!

Quick question - the tank I bought, which is a Bearmach: https://www.lrdirect.com/NRC9515-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-bm.html

What material would it be made out of (metal, stainless steel, aluminium, ...) ? Depending on that I would be using a different type of Primer.

Thanks very much,

Simone

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@Western you always safe me up! So on mild-steel if I put gravitex I don't need to put any primer (at least this is what UPOL has in the TDS) :)

I am still puzzled around the paint to be honest. I did some research online and I get a lot of conflicting info - who says to put epoxy, 2k top coat etc... the 2k i read that it won't flex with the chassis creating cracks in the paint that will allow corrosion - 

On top of the gravitex then,which is a good stone chip, what would be the best paint to provide a stronger build to the tank to resist water, salt from seabreeze (I live by the sea), mud, etc...? Or I would better just apply more layers of Gravitex? I will follow whatever is your recommendation ;)  

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
On 7/23/2017 at 4:44 PM, western said:

Your tank should have 5 openings

1. fuel filler rubber hose to body fill point neck

2.tank breather flexi hose to fill point neck

3. this has to be blanked off using the nut & olive from the old tank, I had to cut this down to get the tank to fit into the chassis 

4. fuel return line pipe, as we mentioned in replies above

5. fuel gauge sender unit, seal & locking ring fits this hole on tank left side, do not fit sender unit until tank is fully fitted to chassis, tank won't fit with sender fitted.

 

as for your paints, use whatever you are happy with.

ESR2243-p.jpg

2 years down the line and the only progress made has been to paint the new tank with Raptor - jeez! I haven't been to Ghana lately because of work commitments but in my last visit I wanted to perform the change but guess what?? something is wrong 

 

The fuel tank I bought is unfortunately not the same as the one originally fitted - the original one has a hole at the top (number 4), for the fuel return line pipe, which the tank I bought and got shipped to ghana does NOT have (@#%$). The other holes (1,2,3 & 5) are also in my new one. So the big question is: is there a mod kit that will allow me to use the existing hole of the new tank (guess hole 5 or 3) to replace hole 4? In hole 5 at the moment there is the fuel sender as per picture - so may be there is a kit that does the functions of sender and fuel return line pipe or I can do something with hole 3? I really do not want to cut out the center piece to create hole 4....

the tank with hole 4 is for the petrol engine (it originally fitted a v3.5L v8) - the 200TDI tank doesn't have that hole. Since it now fits that engine I would have thought that I won't need to keep using hole 4 but adapt my set-up to fit the diesel one using either hole 5 or hole 3 - any hope?

Thanks so much!!!

 

IMG_20190316_160228556_HDR.jpg

Edited by Wheely
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You can use the pipe stub #3 for the return line connection and a defender 200/300 Tdi sender and pick up unit , not sure if it will read correctly with your gauge though so you may need the matching  Tdi gauge too . The standard Tdi return uses the hole in the top with 5 screws that is your pick up and return point on the old tank .

hope that is of use

cheers

Steve b

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Oh @steve b, you're making my day! I guess the correct part number is AMR1495 the correct part no (link) which has both sender and with a fuel pick up pipe ? There is also PRC8463 but seems to be for older versions (<1992) I've been trying to find it on the manual (link) but all the ones I can find have hole 4...

thanks a lot!!

Edited by Wheely
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I'd try and find one from the same year of manufacture as your truck to have a better chance of the sender working with your existing gauge -what year is your truck?

from '89 factory parts book sender up to '86 PRC3268 or PRC4972- edit to add PRC4972 looks to be sender only  (as your one in the pic )

 another number fro Britcar's site PRC8463 , up to VIN JA915357

cheers

Steve

Edited by steve b
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The truck is 1995 and was a 3.5 V8, but has a 1994 Disco 200TDI engine now (engine no 12L77414A) despite most of its components still being the original petrol ones....hence I'd go for AMR1495  which is for from mid 1992 onwards (from VIN no JA915358)... any way to check it'd fit on the tank I got (the NRC9515)

 would this be sufficient or need to buy anything else to be able to do the conversion from the existing set-up (which was meant to be for a petrol tank)?

I will check also the gauges whilst at it - a good excuse to freshen them up with the new raptor dashboard  I got...

I will then use the pipe stub #3 for the return line connection 🙂 great stuff! do I need to buy anything or just change the existing set-up? If the latter, any tip on what has to be done? the mechanic here are very creative but need some guidance to avoid getting too creative 😛

thanks a lot @steve b !!

Edited by Wheely
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No problem Wheely

The original return onto stub #3 was a loose female pipe nut and (iirc) an 8mm olive - the plastic return pipe had as standard a male pipe fitting with a barbed tail with the pipe shrunk onto it . A short length of 8mm bore rubber fuel pipe and a couple of stainless steel wormdrive clips is sufficient to connect the return if your existing one won't fit with the olive/nut arrangement

cheers

Steve

 

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great, so If I understand correctly I should be able to fit the existing standard male pipe from the structure I had going into hole #4 and divert it into stub #3 and then tighten it with some 8mm wormdrive clips only?

The flow would then work like this - from the AMR1495 the fuel goes along the chassis to the lift pump on the engine from there to fuel filter to injector pump. On the other side of the injector pump is the back flow. This goes back along the chassis and connects to #3 of new tank as described above?

No need of making any changes to these fuel lines right? So I just to get myself a AMR1495 and ship it down to Ghana unless I am missing something..

@steve b does it all sound right? 
 

If there is no guide on the forum, shall I put one together for anyone else that falls into this conversion? For beginners like me, info like this is extremely useful

 

 

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It's unlikely the feed to engine pipe will reach the fuel sender/pick up on the side of the tank so you will need to cut and extend it with 10mm bore rubber fuel hose and worm drive clips , the return will need  8mm bore rubber fuel pipe and clips (cut off original connection nut )

When the plastic pipe is cut make sure the ends are not sharp and insert into rubber extension section carefully about 50mm+ to avoid damaging the bore of the rubber . I usually put 2 clips on each connection from rubber to plastic facing opposite each other and do get the correct size clips otherwise you may build in air/fuel leaks .

cheers

Steve b 

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ah, ok @steve b this gets interesting! and since I am a beginner here, things when cutting/extending/etc and are likely to get messy :) 

To avoid that, worthwhile then changing the full fuel hose going into the engine and the one return one?  the existing hoses are anyway 25 years old beaten by the African weather + originally for petrol and now on diesel, so I guess a refresh wouldn't be bad? In this case I would not need to any any modification at all to nothing right? I get AMR1495, attach it to #5 with the new hose running along the chassis all the way up to the engine, and then to the lift pump on the engine from there to fuel filter to injector pump. Then attach to the injector pump the new hose of the back flow that I'd connect to stub #3 of the new tank tightening with some 8mm wormdrive clips.

does the above sound right or am I missing something?

What would be the size needed by these 2 new hoses? are both 8amm or the one from #5 to engine is a 10mm and the return one is a 8mm?

thanks a lot!!!!

Edited by Wheely
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