Diff Dilemma

[Beardy Face]

I have a very dead rover diff from the rear of my IIA 109, owing to the fact it lost it's oil, the pinion bearings collapsed (bits of bearing cage in the oil) and the crownwheel and pinion are now toast.  Is it worth getting it sorted?  I'll probably be throwing a used unit from a well known auction site in at least temporarily, but my experience with used diffs so far is less than stellar, they tend to arrive with much wear and backlash if they're old enough to come out of a series axle. It'll be my third used diff, OK, spread over decades, it's not like I'm breaking them regularly, but even so.

Parts appear to be available to rebuild it, the process looks tedious rather than difficult and it'd be nice to have one as a spare at least, though by the time I've replaced everything it needs and bought a DTI and setting block the recon ones from Craddock start to look viable.  Maybe I'd be better finding a different one to rebuild? 

I can almost taste wanting one from Ashcrofts, trouble is if I go there I start wanting it pegged, with an ATB, and then have to add HD half shafts and flanges... and sadly it gets way too expensive

[Cornish Rattler]

If its a std diff and you are going to buy a replacement one try and look for a front diff as they don't get used as much as a rear one as if its been used with fixed hubs ( std ) the diff free wheels meaning it rotates but doesn't have any weight on it if you no what I mean and if FWH's was used the diff wouldn't turn at all if the hubs were turned off, or if you know your front diff is a good one swap it into the rear and buy a replacement one for the front

[andyb]

Aren't the front and rear diffs different makes in a Series 109. Rover versus Salisbury? So I don't think a front to rear swap is possible. 

[FridgeFreezer]

They changed with the IIA, I think early ones were a Rover axle & later they were Salisbury.

I'd wonder about sending it to Nige for rebuild & pegging unless you want the fun of DIYing it, that way you have an uprated unit to swap in.

[Beardy Face]

X

3 hours ago, Cornish Rattler said:

If its a std diff and you are going to buy a replacement one try and look for a front diff as they don't get used as much as a rear one...

That had occurred to me too

3 hours ago, Cornish Rattler said:

......or if you know your front diff is a good one swap it into the rear and buy a replacement one for the front

Sadly the front needs work too, some play in the pinion shaft and a slow leak, which doesn't fret me much on a front one as it's behind FWH & just sits, apart from the odd short spell to redistribute the oil, I think maybe a previous owner already swapped them.

2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

They changed with the IIA, I think early ones were a Rover axle & later they were Salisbury.

This is indeed an early one, Rover at both ends

2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

I'd wonder about sending it to Nige for rebuild & pegging unless you want the fun of DIYing it, that way you have an uprated unit to swap in.

Yes, I wondered about that too after reading his posts on threads about diffs, looking at his site and watching some of the videos, from what I've gleaned from that he appears to avoid 2 pin 10 spline units though, and the imperial ones with the ally pinion seal retainer also appear to be the dearest to get sorted, not sure if I could afford pegging as well much as I'd like it, it ran dry on the A1M and consequently I suspect everything bar the case is f.... errr "copulated". Crown-wheel, pinion, and all bearings are for certain, it's out and I've looked. DIYing would be fun, I'd be less hesitant if it was going up front.

I like Nige's work, but he's a longish way away, Ashcrofts are nearly on my doorstep, about 35 miles.

Edited June 12, 2017 by Beardy Face

[Beardy Face]

After MUCH bugging of Nige via email, we've come to an agreement on what I think is the best way forward, will update after delivery and fitting, but I've found him most helpful and informative!

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

medication is a wonderfull thing penguin

 

[ejparrott]

If you hadn't already come to an agreement, I'd have said upgrade to a Salisbury

[Beardy Face]

I did consider it, but any leaf sprung axle I got hold of would be 34 years old or older by definition, with all the implied wear and tear.. if whatever I bought proved noisy, or worn out, they're more expensive and more difficult to sort than Rover axles.  Used bits are somewhat of a lottery.

I don't know how what I've gone for compares with a Sailsbury for ultimate strength, but with a pegged case, new C&P, refurb KAM 24 spline LSD, and Ashcroft 1/2 shafts, it should be way stronger than original. Without taking chances on worn bearings, worn gears, etc. etc. that I'd by definition be taking with anything used.  Just didn't want to take the chance that some random auction site Sailsbury that's already done unknown but likely high mileage would be presenting me with a rebuild to pay for later when I maybe couldn't finance it.

Swapping a diff and half-shafts in the street as I'm constrained to do is one thing, swapping an entire axle is another, which would likely see busybodies calling the council to moan.  I've seen such happen to others who've done middle size jobs with cars on axle stands out there in recent times.  I miss the days when half the population including myself used to be doing their own servicing, swapping head gaskets, engines, gearboxes, and welding chunks in floors out there.  But the world has changed, and not for the better.

[Snagger]

That sounds like a very strong combination, and I'd guess at the weak spot being the C&P gears (other than the drive flange splines), but the pegging should help considerably to deal with that.  I suspect the Salisbury would be stronger, but not by enough to be of concern, but as robust as Salisbury axles and diffs are, you're right about age, use and potential neglect taking their toll, and also quite right that it'd be a heavier (if simpler) job.  But IIAs are classics now, so keeping the original axle with some invisible upgrades is a big deal, and this way you don't have to worry about brake line unions of different specs and other unforseen detail issues that complicate swaps of large assemblies, and you have the confidence of new parts.