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Seized brake bleed nipple


reb78

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Any tips for removing a seized brake bleed nipple? Been soaking it in a proper penetrating oil daily since the weekend but it won't budge. It was a pretty mangled before I looked at it and I have a replacement but this is going to need an Irwin extractor to remove it now.

This is on the D2, but could apply to any vehicle so I posted it up here. 

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bash it very hard with a hammer, straight on the head to loosen up rust in the thread. If you use an extractor, either square or straight fluted one. The tapered expanding thread type only seems to expand the nipple and make the problem worse in my experience.

 

Daan

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8 minutes ago, Daan said:

bash it very hard with a hammer, straight on the head to loosen up rust in the thread. If you use an extractor, either square or straight fluted one. The tapered expanding thread type only seems to expand the nipple and make the problem worse in my experience.

 

Daan

Will do. 

 

My extractors are the socket ones that bash onto the mashed head of a nut or bolt, not the ones that you insert in a pilot hole. 

 

Im not in a hurry to do this, so don't want to knacker it and leave it undriveable since, if a house purchase goes through, I'll need this to pull a trailer a fair bit and this is just maintenance, not repair. 

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Unless you need to bleed it, I would leave well alone.

They are a pain to drill out and a pain to tap a repair into, and even then I would worry about it failing, and probably just replace it.

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Slip a well fitting penny /repair washer over whats left of the nipple, then cover the rest of the surrounding bits with a NON FLAMMABLE material to prevent splatter, then blast it with a mig welder.........if you have one.

Then hopefully unscrew with pliers.

I have found that reverse screw or splined adaptors spread the nipple and make it tighter, and this way there is no drilling or tapping to do ! 

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54 minutes ago, smallfry said:

Slip a well fitting penny /repair washer over whats left of the nipple, then cover the rest of the surrounding bits with a NON FLAMMABLE material to prevent splatter, then blast it with a mig welder.........if you have one.

Then hopefully unscrew with pliers.

I have found that reverse screw or splined adaptors spread the nipple and make it tighter, and this way there is no drilling or tapping to do ! 

I worry about the piston seals with that degree of localised heat on the caliper. Are they likely to be damaged with the mig method?

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Be patient & persistent  with the oil (plus gas is ideal); I had a similar problem, it took a week to soak in. The heat from welding on a nut is unlikely to damage a seal as it will be relatively quick,  the caliper has quite a large thermal mass and they have been known to get warm in use. A freezer aerosol on it might also help

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