reb78 Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Any tips for removing a seized brake bleed nipple? Been soaking it in a proper penetrating oil daily since the weekend but it won't budge. It was a pretty mangled before I looked at it and I have a replacement but this is going to need an Irwin extractor to remove it now. This is on the D2, but could apply to any vehicle so I posted it up here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 bash it very hard with a hammer, straight on the head to loosen up rust in the thread. If you use an extractor, either square or straight fluted one. The tapered expanding thread type only seems to expand the nipple and make the problem worse in my experience. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 8 minutes ago, Daan said: bash it very hard with a hammer, straight on the head to loosen up rust in the thread. If you use an extractor, either square or straight fluted one. The tapered expanding thread type only seems to expand the nipple and make the problem worse in my experience. Daan Will do. My extractors are the socket ones that bash onto the mashed head of a nut or bolt, not the ones that you insert in a pilot hole. Im not in a hurry to do this, so don't want to knacker it and leave it undriveable since, if a house purchase goes through, I'll need this to pull a trailer a fair bit and this is just maintenance, not repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Unless you need to bleed it, I would leave well alone. They are a pain to drill out and a pain to tap a repair into, and even then I would worry about it failing, and probably just replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 Ok. Thanks Bowie. I just feel I ought to bleed it as I haven't done it for some time... I'll have to heed your advice I think! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Typically you are screwed and they just break off. They are nearly impossible to extract as well. Becomes time for a new caliper. OEM calipers are not expensive. Should try and bleed every couple of years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 Yeah. I know. I've neglected bleeding this vehicle which is why I kind of wanted to do it now. If I'd done it more regularly it probably wouldn't be seized! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Hammer a torx socket on it which is a little tight then an old fashioned impact wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 Slip a well fitting penny /repair washer over whats left of the nipple, then cover the rest of the surrounding bits with a NON FLAMMABLE material to prevent splatter, then blast it with a mig welder.........if you have one. Then hopefully unscrew with pliers. I have found that reverse screw or splined adaptors spread the nipple and make it tighter, and this way there is no drilling or tapping to do ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 15, 2017 Author Share Posted June 15, 2017 54 minutes ago, smallfry said: Slip a well fitting penny /repair washer over whats left of the nipple, then cover the rest of the surrounding bits with a NON FLAMMABLE material to prevent splatter, then blast it with a mig welder.........if you have one. Then hopefully unscrew with pliers. I have found that reverse screw or splined adaptors spread the nipple and make it tighter, and this way there is no drilling or tapping to do ! I worry about the piston seals with that degree of localised heat on the caliper. Are they likely to be damaged with the mig method? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 Weld a nut onto it is another trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beardy Face Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 1 minute ago, vulcan bomber said: Weld a nut onto it is another trick. That's my "go to" if penetrating oil and a sharp rap on the end doesn't free it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Be patient & persistent with the oil (plus gas is ideal); I had a similar problem, it took a week to soak in. The heat from welding on a nut is unlikely to damage a seal as it will be relatively quick, the caliper has quite a large thermal mass and they have been known to get warm in use. A freezer aerosol on it might also help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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