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First problem....


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In the few days I've had the Freelander she's run like a dream. Went to get fuel today, filled up, backed her up the the jet wash, went to start her up again and nothing. Just a click from the ignition but not turning over at all. 

Phoned the breakdown folks, the guy comes out, hooks up a booster pack, still nothing. Then he starts tapping the back of the starter motor and she fires up right away. He explained it's the solenoid that was probably frozen and the contacts in it have packed up working properly, a cheap fix he said and not surprising it's gone considering it's probably been on the car since new. Drove her home and she was fine. Parked up and tried to start her again and nothing. 

Is it a big job to fit a new solenoid and is it worth getting a used starter motor while I'm at it or just replace said solenoid? The starter motor itself seems fine and fires her up no problem but obviously I'm a little wary now as I don't relish finding myself stranded or caught out at the last minute.

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Hello- No problem really, but i think yours is a K-Series petrol and the starter motor and solenoid come as one unit. Im sure you can't but one without the other.

Whatever you do- take the battery earth OFF first before attempting to remove it (the starter-motor)- its held in place with 3 bolts. There are a couple or small wires and one big one- that goes directly to the battery.

id get a reconditioned on from a motor-factors. Phone around first as they can be expensive. If you don't get and exchange one- when the new one is back on the car and you are happy- strip the old one down and find out whats wrong with it. if it was clicking- then its NOT the solenoid or pre-engage mechanism. it will be a dirty commutator or burnt segment- id suggest the former. 

it will be good practice and you will have a spare if you are successful!

Good luck.

 

 

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Thanks Pat. 

I saw this online but I'm not going to buy it until I check it out with my mechanic 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FREELANDER-1-8-16v-PETROL-NEW-SOLENOID-FOR-STARTER-MOTOR-NAD101420-228000-6120-/292047519591?epid=1542383560&hash=item43ff637f67:m:mX9mWuYxF0HSfTZ1-Vv--tw

It does seem likely that when the guy tapped it and explained that it releases the contacts in the solenoid that it's potentially the problem. If the mechanic says that solenoid will do the trick along with cleaning up the electrical connectors then I'm not going to complain at £25 plus a bit of labour charge. 

If it's going to mean a whole start motor I'll go to Fleabay for a temporary unit and shop around for a refurbished one to go on when I get a good deal. 

As said, the starter motor itself does seem fine, there was no sign of "tiredness" after he gave it a tap, it fired up right away. To be honest I think the booster pack he hooked up wasn't really needed either, just a precaution. 

From what I've been able to Google it seems a common problem that the carbon bushes suddenly give up without warning due to wear and tear and I'm hoping that's the case. If it is then I'll find out from Tony exactly what he did to sort it and pass it on in case it may help others in future

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Just talked to the guy selling the solenoids (thankfully he's available til 9pm) and he said to check it out with the mechanic but he said from the sound of it the solenoid has failed. In fairness he could have sold me a full starter motor unit for £50 more so he seems genuine in that respect. 

He said if the car fires up instantly then the issue is with the solenoid and/or connections. He said a bad starter motor would have similar symptoms to a dying battery most likely but as she's fired up instantly on all occasions prior to this suddenly happening it's unlikely that there would be a starter motor issue without any warning signs at all. 

When the mechanic responds to my email I'll know for sure what I'm looking at but I've come across reconditioned starter motors with 12 months guarantee at very reasonable prices so I'll get one as a matter of course when the rest of my insurance money comes through. 

I actually feel quite reassured on the reliability now

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The guy you link to at repairkits UK is a really helpful chap. Lots of people have used his kits (including me) and he knows his stuff. I'd just buy what he recommends snd rplace the solenoid. He sells the copper contacts for some solenoids, but that looks like a comolete replacememt solenoid. 

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Yeah Reb it's a whole solenoid unit and my mechanic agrees with him about that being the problem. 

Mr Freezer thankfully it's an easy fix as you said and once it's done that's one less thing to worry about. 

In a moment of paranoia last night I went through the huge stack of receipts that came with the car (dating back to 2007) and most of the issues mentioned on the forum have been done between 2013 and 2015 (including head gasket) and it's had a lot of money spent on it so fingers crossed this is purely one of those unlucky isolated issues that was bound to happen sooner or later. The main one for me was the head gasket and that was 15k miles ago so I'm quite relieved about that. 

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Thanks Bowie and I pray you're right. To be honest after everything it's had done in recent years and a lot of receipts for servicing as long as I have it serviced regularly there's no reason why it shouldn't last a good few years. 

I'll chalk this little mishap up as just a bit of bad luck and be thankful it happened close to home when I was on my own and not 200 miles away with the Mrs and her mother with me. 

As soon as the solenoid arrives it's straight in for fitting and back on the road again. Whilst it's up on the ramps I'll get the mechanic to have a good nosey around but after it passed the MoT at a local garage who are pretty strict this month there shouldn't be any nasty surprises. 

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I had a continuing problem like this several years ago on a 2001 V6 Freelander. They thought it was the switch but that made no difference. They thought it may have been a bad starter wire. An extra wire did not help. It would often not start but would start sometimes with a jump start. Finally although it seemed like a low battery not having enough power to crank the battery always tested OK. Finally it was found that the battery did not have enough cranking amps as it was a reconditioned one. Put in a larger battery and it was solved. Hope this helps.

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