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DIY: Applying insulation to my LR


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Hi All,

I am looking at applying a good insulating material for Wheely (1995 Land Rover Defender 6x4) so that in my trips around Ghana and Africa I won't suffer too much from the engine heat nor the very loud engine noise


I bought 20mm Kaiflex https://uro-camper.com/tiendaonline...miento-termico-kaiflex-autoadhesivo-20mm.html (in spanish but you can ask google to translate the page)


I plan to cover it all top to bottom (all floors and the ceiling) - I removed the headlining and the original carpet as it was in horrible conditions.


I have a series of questions, but let’s start with the easy ones.


1) How do you recommend to treat the surface on which the material will go? Currently it’s bare metal ( a bit rusty). By this I mean, besides cleaning properly, do I need to paint with a special material (e.g. rust converter, waxoyl, …)

2) Since it will be applied where there were seats that are now removed and there are holes exposing it to the bottom of the vehicle/road, what should be done to cover the holes before applying the kaiflex on top

3) I've heard the moisture we produce while sleeping condenses on the steel panels, gets trapped in the insulation and causes rust. Between the steel panels and the insulating material do I need to put anything to prevent moist to get trapped and cause rust? Do I need to give a special treatment to the steel panels like they do here https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/camper-van-conversions

4) Do you recommend this material to be put also inside the battery box/tool box on the passenger side so to limit at most the heat coming from underneath

5) Whilst I am at it shall I also cover the front-vents to prevent any more dust from getting into the dashboard?

Thanks so ever much,

Simone

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Simone - I've done several vehicles with foam insulation.  Key thing is to prepare whatever surface its going onto so its non-flaky and dry so you get a good bond with the foam - so get rid of rust and overpaint with suitable paint. It needs to be dry so pick a good day that is warm and dry.

Yes moisture condenses on panels but ONLY where your breathed out air/cold air is in contact with cold/warm panels, so if you apply the insulation so that it is completely stuck to the metal (ie no air gaps behind) you will get virtually no condensation where the foam is in direct contact with the metal. Anywhere there is no foam likely WILL get condensation.

CRUCIAL POINT - the foam MUST be closed-cell. There are two types - open-cell and closed-cell. Open cell allows air through, and moisture can gather in it and go mouldy and smell. Closed-cell, as the name implies, has a closed structure so air does not go through and it remains water resistant and odour free. Check what you've got before applying.

 

Finally - it makes a huge difference to temperature in the vehicle, stays cooler in summer and warmer in winter. It also reduces noise. I have it on sides, roof, front and in the load area at rear and under front floor mats, but I left these bits loose so I can pull them out for cleaning and removing any moisture that ends up in the floor area.

Edited by Jocklandjohn
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  • 3 weeks later...

Great feedback @Jocklandjohn!

I have been doing some research and I think the following plan is a good one:

I would prep the panels by sand blasting them, apply rust-converter is there is any rust left, then apply UPOL #8 Acid primer, then UPOL Gravitex and then applying the Kaiflex on it. Since the Kaiflex shouldn't be exposed to pressure I plan to cover it with metal sheets to give it this effect: https://goo.gl/images/5XYMGV - how did you fix the insulation to allow it to be removed for cleaning etc?

-Gravitex should help to deaden sound and vibrations (as per UPOL TDS- attached)
-Kaiflex can be exposed to water as it is a closed cell PVC/NBR foam.
-I would apply rubber plugs to the holes (http://www.rust.co.uk/injection-plugs-m10/p405074)

...What are your thoughts on this plan? anything i should add/remove/change of it?

Thanks a lot!

Simone

GRAVITEX.pdf

Edited by Wheely
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Personally I'd avoid the sand blasting unless absolutely necessary! Its a grim job and perhaps overkill for this job. I'm curious though as to what is actually rusty? The main body panels of the Land Rover are alloy so I'm not sure what you're seeing thats rusty? I'm getting an impression of both inside and outside work being done on the vehicle -body AND chassis?

If you're using the Upol 8 Acid Primer check that your adhesive for the Kaiflex is compatible with it - I've had problems with a few mastics and adhesives not bonding to it very well. 

The metal plates will be a pig when your feet are wet or there's dirt on it as your feet will slide! In mine I simply lifted the floor mat, laid a sheet of closed cell foam and replaced the floor mat - used a decent LR/4x4 type rubber mat with a raised lip all round so that water, dirt, melting snow is trapped in it and can simply be lifted out and emptied, and the foam removed for cleaning/drying and access under the floor panel. Keeping it simple is often a more useful solution!

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Hey @Jocklandjohn - ye sand-blasting probably too much - a good 80 GRIT sand paper should be sufficient to remove the surface rust - it's mainly in the foot-well/firewalls. 

Good point on whether the kaiflex glue would stick on top of the Gravitex/Acid primer - I will see how i can test that.

The metal plate then can have a nice rubber floor mat on top :) The kaiflex seems pretty delicate - push in a finger and you create a decompression - stepping daily on it would eventually brake it... I have seen a few people using dynamat and stepping on it but i guess that's a different material?

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Yes, a rub down with sandpaper is enough, a lick of red lead paint and then stick your stuff on. 

I went to my nearest chemical converter (foam-maker!) and handed over £100 (minimum order value) and got a huge wodge of closed-cell foam - several 2.4m x 1.2m sheets - enough to line 2 vehicles and I still have some left over I'm using for other jobs. Its robust and ideal for a Land Rover.

Not sure about the fancy trade names tbh!

One other key thing is make sure your glue is able to resist extreme heat - dark vehicles in sun can get incredibly hot and this will kill your glue. I found out the hard way when so-called All-temperature glue which I used to stick automotive carpet onto the roof of my LR gave way and the whole lot came down on my head! 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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