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Emissions High after FIP repair


RRMatador

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Hoping someone will be able to give me some advice or options.

1997 P38 diesel DSE

The top seal started to leak/weep on the fuel injection pump, and after purchasing a replacement gasket kit, I replaced the seal no problems with the pump still in situ as it didn't need to be removed for access to the top seal. 

I was careful to mark the casings as best I could in order to be sure that the top was realigned during reassembly. To my disappointment the car failed the MOT test on the emissions, showing it to be high.

For reference my last opacity test before the repair is showing me readings of 0.89m-1. The result of my last test, post repair is showing 7.09m-1

This has come as a surprise as I had initially thought it was running lean, there is far less exhaust smoke on acceleration, and my MPG rose from 23 (pre-repair) to 29 (post repair).

During the emission test, when the throttle was wide open, it did start to stutter and run out of juice at around 4k RPM, its a subtle stutter. It was the first time I was made aware there was a problem. I'm rarely running above 3k RPM.

There are some helpful videos I've watched, one of which was someone that slackened the 4 top bolts of the FIP and by tapping the casing's top and moving it either left or right, probably only microns at a time, he was able to tune the emissions of the pump - however he had an opacity meter...I don't....

My local garages are claiming that as it is a FIP it needs to be removed and sent off to be recalibrated. This will not be happening, as I've decided to scrap the car before having to pay out anymore repair bills. No sooner than I have fixed one problem, I almost immediately have another to deal with. I have to draw the line somewhere....If there is an easy fix for this problem, all well and good.

I have yet to find anyone who is willing to plug it into an opacity meter and "have a fiddle" to see if they can lower the emission. I'm currently thinking my only option is to have a fiddle myself, see if I can remove the stutter at 4k RPM, then take it for an emission test, see what the result is, followed by more fiddling if required (almost certainly will), followed by another trip to an opacity meter and so on....

I'm assuming that as the pump wasn't removed, the timing would not have been changed, so purchasing a timing kit for the FIP would do little to help me?? Is that right.

Looking for some direction here.....

Thanks,

Matt

 

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Recalibrating the pump isn't horrendously expensive.  I used DieselBobTuning and was happy with his work.  Scrapping the car seems a tad excessive just for that - better to get this done and then sell it if you've had enough, at least to maximise what you'll be paid for it; scrap values are nothing at all.

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Hi snagger, thanks for your help. After doing a little more research I believe I can do what is required with some software. I already have an OBD II cable, that I use to resolve my previous EAS problems. Ross Tech offer VAG COM but this seems only for VW Audi cars. I need to find something similar to work with the rangie. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

I'm in rural spain and getting things done here can be a nightmare, I need the car daily so cant really have it off the road, its all these additional costs that make a small calibration job an expensive repair- hire cars, loss of days to take the pump somewhere (if I can find anywhere) etc etc. All that is required is a bit of tapping on the pump to bring the numbers back into line.

It might seem excessive to scrap a car, but there are other issues I just cannot resolve, bouncing door locks to name but one, ive replaced door locks, and outstations, checked wiring etc etc. Damn electrical gremlins. Anyway that's for a different thread.... 

Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

update....I have purchased a generic elm327 adapter, and have downloaded scantool 1.13. If I am able to see the real time data output I can fix this problem hopefully.

However after connecting it all up, and downloading drivers for the usb port, I receive the following error

"Protocol could not be detected. please check connection to vehicle and make sure ignition is on."

the scantool pc interface shows a green light and says it is ready, but the led on adapter is red. It is set to baud rate of 38400 (9600 wont connect)

Has anyone used this software? Am I doing something wrong or is the generic adapter I've brought no good?

Thanks

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