Half Shafts - Trimming to Length?

[Retroanaconda]

Folks,

I'm in the process of assembling my 110's rear axle, which is a Salisbury unit. It has been converted to run disk brakes, using the later (thinner) hubs and the bolt-on caliper brackets etc. Previously it used the early (thicker) drive members, which fit the earlier hubs bolt PCD okay although the spigot is loose in the hub. These drive members were used to allow continued use of the old (drum-braked fitment) half shafts, which are longer than the later ones by about 10-15mm per side. 

I want to use the later thin drive members as A. they will match the front, B. they will fit the hubs properly and C. they will allow the use of alloys later if desired. Unfortunately the older half-shafts are too long for this - I was hoping the extra length could be 'swallowed' at the diff end but the spline runs out too soon. As such I need to either A. replace the shafts with the later 300Tdi-on (disc-braked) type or B. cut down the diff end of the shaft by 10mm or so and save myself a chunk of cash. But is it acceptable to cut down half-shafts?

I'm concerned about affecting the hardening with the heat. The shafts are in reasonable nick, although there does appear to be a slight twist at the diff end (pic below), however there is barely any perceptible play between shaft and diff or shaft and drive flange.

Any thoughts? I know it may seem a bit of a Heath Robinson thing to do but looking online a set of later half shafts is going to run to over £300 (can't see the £40 Britpart ones lasting...) unless I get lucky with a second hand pair, so if there's no disadvantage to doing it I may give it a shot.

[pat_pending]

Is there enough room in the plastic end cap to just use a spacer to take up the distance between the hub and circlip?

IIRC the Britpart halfshafts aren't bad.

 wouldn't trust that one though, once there's a twist, it ain't getting any better.

[dangerous doug]

I don't think you should cut them but you can see how much spare spline you have if you were to cut them. Like you say, keep it cold and keep it square

 

as for them twisting.....you have plenty of life left in it, these are mine and are still not broken

 

[neil110]

Having done a similar thing many years ago, before going back to the thicker flanges all round, I am sure I just swapped the drive members and kept the same half shafts. i have vague recollections of the shafts butting up against each other in the diff, but there being just enough free movement

[Disco-Ron]

My 2p worth....

You won't get that shaft into the diff end if you shorten it..... the twist won't go in the planet/sun gear.....

[Mo Murphy]

If it t'were me, I'd buy the Britpart half shafts to keep you going whilst you search out decent secondhand replacements.

Mo

[dailysleaze]

I've had new take off shafts and they seem to wear at the same as Britpart ones, i.e. zero to some play within a few months.

I wouldn't worry getting aftermarket shafts, as they'll just solve your problem and you can get back on the road quicker. Later on they're easy to replace if you want something better.

[Retroanaconda]

Thanks all.

At the moment the hub cap won't go on, so a spacer is not an option unfortunately.

My research had led me to believe there was enough space in the diff for it to work (you can see from the twist photos how much spare spline there is), so it may actually be the twist in the shaft which is stopping it going fully home as Disco Ron suggests. I suppose I could test this by applying some grease to the splines at the diff end and test fitting, to see how far in it gets. And I haven't actually tried the other side, if that isn't twisted it may fit already. This is the short shaft, which is more prone to twisting splines if I recall correctly.

I'll have a play when I'm back at home and see how I get on, the suggestion of getting the cheap halfshafts to get me by is a good one, though I'm a very long way from actually needing half shafts for driven motion, so even if I just left them out it won't hold me up.

[muddy]

You have nothing to lose cutting them surely? Ashcroft shafts were less than £300 when I bought mine.

[nickwilliams]

Whether shortening the shafts is the right solution or not, I'll leave to others, but I'd not be too worried about cutting them down if you decide it's the right way to go. 

If you've got access to a TCT cut off saw or a band saw then I'd use that - the heating will be minimal. Otherwise a thin cutting disc on an angle grinder, take it steady, do it one bit at a time around the circumference and cool it with water between runs. The HAZ will only be a few mm from the cut, if at all. 

[Retroanaconda]

Having read up a bit it seems that cutting them down shouldn't cause any issues should I go with that option, as above a thin wheel in a grinder and taking it gently will minimise any impact. However I will avoid if I can.

Thinking about it again this morning I can test whether the slight twist is the cause of the shaft not going fully home by putting it in the wrong way round and comparing protrusion at the hub. If it fits, and the other side also goes in with no problem, then I will just get a replacement short shaft for the twisted one and that'll see me right.

[daveturnbull]

I like Mo's plan.

[mmgemini]

I have a 1996/ 6 Defender SW. One side, the left, has the correct half shaft fitted. The right side has the earlier drum brake half shaft fitted. Been like that for ten years. Oh yes I have the Terrafirma drive members fitted

 

[daveturnbull]

Just seen this on Facebook, not sure if these are any good for you? 

[Daan]

You will probably solve the problem by cutting them down, but the next problem is that they will get pushed out while driving; The plastic cap wont hold it and your wheels will get covered in oil. This I have had myself. You could try to create a splined spacer behind the drive member to prevent this from happening. I must say though that the narrower hub is a bad design for many reasons: there is less spline engagement as you noticed and the bearings a re closer together which gives less strength. I don't think the shafts from the link above will work. They are most probably from a rover axle and longer than the salisbury shafts. If they are from a salisbury axle, they will work.

 

Daan

[Disco-Ron]

Dave.... according to the Ashcroft sote the 'late rears' are different to thier Salisbury option....

[neil110]

10 hours ago, Disco-Ron said:

Dave.... according to the Ashcroft sote the 'late rears' are different to thier Salisbury option....

Ashcroft offer shafts for both early and late variants of the salisbury (Dana) axle.

Edited July 21, 2017 by neil110

[Retroanaconda]

Thanks all.

I had a quick play the other night and it seems that the other shaft (which is not twisted at the diff end) might go in far enough to not cause a problem. I need to build the hub etc up on that end yet so don't know for sure, but if it all fits when I have done so then I'll drop £25 on a new shaft for the short side and that'll get me running for now.

Regarding the caps coming out when driving, I've heard of this but never thought it was that prevalent. Perhaps as the caps wear over time fitting/refitting they loose their grip and the shaft can push them off? I've seen people make captive brackets that pick up on the drive member bolts. If I have a problem I'll deal with it then.

Likewise the hub bearing spacing is unlikely to be a problem for me - if I was building an off-roader due to wear 37"s then perhaps it would be worth converting them.

[Retroanaconda]

Just to wrap this one up.

Picked up an el-cheapo halfshaft this morning from the local parts place, fits no bother and hub cap goes on nicely - it was the twisted splines on mine preventing the depth of engagement necessary at the diff end from being achieved.  So no need to cut anything down 

Other side fits nicely too, and everything seems to work as it should. I'll keep my eye out for a set of decent Salisbury shafts to have as spares anyway, won't do any harm.

Thanks all for the help.