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Programmable solid state power distribution modules


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I'm curious as to what people consider to be the benefits of this thingy?

I get that it's smaller than a fuse box + collection of relays but it does add a complex "black box" of technology (which is usually considered the Land Rover owner equivalent of kryptonite), and I can't really see why you'd need to bluetooth control your headlamps :mellow: or indeed want someone else to be able to (be they mischievous or malicious).

Also the connectors are perfect for filling with mud, and the unit being a sealed box is not going to lend itself to field repair if the smoke comes out.

Not knocking it, just find it odd that it's being discussed enthusiastically on a forum where anything with an ECU is usually considered to be dark magick.

Also must admit I'm slightly angling for ideas on ways it could be made better/more suited for LR type applications :ph34r:

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25 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

I'm curious as to what people consider to be the benefits of this thingy?

I get that it's smaller than a fuse box + collection of relays but it does add a complex "black box" of technology (which is usually considered the Land Rover owner equivalent of kryptonite), and I can't really see why you'd need to bluetooth control your headlamps :mellow: or indeed want someone else to be able to (be they mischievous or malicious).

Also the connectors are perfect for filling with mud, and the unit being a sealed box is not going to lend itself to field repair if the smoke comes out.

Not knocking it, just find it odd that it's being discussed enthusiastically on a forum where anything with an ECU is usually considered to be dark magick.

Also must admit I'm slightly angling for ideas on ways it could be made better/more suited for LR type applications :ph34r:

I hear what you're saying, but I think the mood on this forum has very much swung with regard to electronics gizmo devices, I think we're now one of the most open and diverse forums for exploring the murky depth of integrated circuits and beyond, I think its great.

I mean you read about the expertise of what people are doing now getting to grips with interrogating ECU's and working out code for what does what, I think we're seeing a generation shift, why be scared of tech :D

It also helps that reliability is a lot better than what it used to be, and its not exactly like we have a huge choice in the matter... 

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Mav - I know quite a few here are forward-looking, and I'm not talking about the more general march of technology. I was curious about this specific module thingy which seems more of an expensive solution looking for a problem than anything, just curious as to what LR owners are finding interesting/useful about it.

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It provides a complete fuse and relay system including flasher relay in one simple waterproof box.  You do not need to get the programmable, bluetooth one.  They have a lower cost pre-set one.  It is nice simple all in one solution if you were building a vehicle electrical system from scratch.  Much cleaner and easier than wiring up a fuse panel and a relay panel.

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Does save a lot of aggro, time, space, and probably money as fuse/relay boxes aren't cheap to buy either.

Will consider one if I ever build an entire electrical system from scratch, at least for bog-standard electrics to get it road legal.

 

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I’d like to put heated seats, a diesel air heater, and so on in my series 1 without taking away the period look as much as possible - these potentially offer a way to have a set up in the seat box that could be kept very discreet.

Also if they are the beginning of something that offers integrated voltage sensitive controls and remote control, it would be a one stop shop for adding circuits.

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Its such a versatile and easy solution to wiring , everything in a box 10cm square all you need to do is run the live wire and then the switch wire , fault finding would become easy . they're that small that you could fit more than one at different locations in the vehicle all linked to the main box and no one would know they were there , also it could enhance security if you could lock the main box to your phone when parking the vehicle at night you could kill all the main systems in the car within the box so nothing works, that's just a thought I've not read that anywhere .

It might just be me but I love this sort of stuff even though I don't know how much of it works , also if I'm reading the info right about some of the boxes the outputs are self healing which I take that as you will never blow a fuse or a relay again .

cheers Ian

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I like old stuff - but I try not to be blind for progress.

ECU's, when used properly, can be really nice to work with but programming PCB's can be a pain to make them do what you want. To tell the thing what to do when what signal comes to what terminal by iPad or smartphone means you can do a lot in a confined space without being obvious.

The 1st. one I used was for a camper conversion and it worked really well and very easy to set-up - but that one require a cable. This one doesn't.

So yes, it does have downsides but it also means that some things are getting much easier. And as they come down in price it puts them in reach of many.

Nothing wrong with Lucas switches & ralays, this just adds an option to the toolkit.

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On 1/9/2018 at 8:37 PM, Anderzander said:

Excuse my ignorance - but how would you wire a remote control switched circuit to work in parallel with a physical switch?

You would be using momentary switches instead of physical latching switches, the latching ( become fixed in a particular state ) would be handled by the software in the central unit.
e.g.
First button press (sends +12v impulse signal) turns the output on, with the switch returns to 0v signal after the finger was removed
Second button press (also sends +12v impulse signal) and turns output off

Thus state of the switch is independent of the state of the output and therefore any activation by a remote does need to affect the switches state (which is a default of always off)

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15 hours ago, zardos said:

You would be using momentary switches instead of physical latching switches, the latching ( become fixed in a particular state ) would be handled by the software in the central unit.
e.g.
First button press (sends +12v impulse signal) turns the output on, with the switch returns to 0v signal after the finger was removed
Second button press (also sends +12v impulse signal) and turns output off

Thus state of the switch is independent of the state of the output and therefore any activation by a remote does need to affect the switches state (which is a default of always off)

Hmm - thank you - I need to digest that ! 

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  • 3 years later...

These are all very slick but if the smoke ever comes out of the box you're proper bu&&ered whereas a dumb setup with basic switches/relays/fuses is a bit more fault-tolerant. Or to put it another way, I'm not sure I'd be fitting one to a truck I was going to take anywhere nasty.

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The AIM units are more motorsport biased though - they also do datalogging from your ECU, drive a digital dash, etc etc - basically if you are building a racecar it can do most of the control in a single unit... 

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10 minutes ago, =jon= said:

The AIM units are more motorsport biased though - they also do datalogging from your ECU, drive a digital dash, etc etc - basically if you are building a racecar it can do most of the control in a single unit... 

Yeah I can see the application for that, but as I said I don't think it's a great idea in a vehicle you want to be "field repairable".

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34 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Yeah I can see the application for that, but as I said I don't think it's a great idea in a vehicle you want to be "field repairable".

I can totally understand that point of view, for me it doesn’t have to be logical. I don’t plan to sell the RR, so I’m building it to how I want it to be. I’m completely re-wiring it from scratch and I personally like the neatness, flexibility and functionality that these PDM devices offer. I’m fitting the 10” screen too, using gps Speedo etc. and assuming meqasquirt supports it, I will feed the engine data via canbus stream so that I can access engine sensor data etc. through the screen too. I’m also using the canbus keypad too. The data logger may prove useful too.

Naturally, I don’t need the track telemetry, mapping and timing features, so part of what I’m paying for is a waste, but I don’t see another system that offers all of the aim capabilities for that price. I don’t expect it to take really harsh treatment and constant dunking, but equally for its Motorsport applications, it hasn’t been designed as a soft delicate item and Radical has been impressed enough to make it the core of their production vehicles. These devices are not new and already have an established track of reliability, so personally I have no concerns. (I’ll see if that comes back to bite me 😉)

I’m not recommending it for off-road use, and if contacted I’m pretty sure AIM wouldn’t either, although I do understand they OEM supply a few ATV and quad manufacturers. 
 

So not for everyone, but for me I hope it will prove to be a good solution. 
 

https://www.aim-sportline.com/en/products/pdm32-pdm08/index.htm

Edited by SteveG
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Steve, that looks really good to me!

Do you know if it can handle more than one PDM connected to the same display?

The reason being to minimise the wiring running the length of the vehicle.  I guess, ideally it would be one in the engine bay, one in the cab & another at the rear - with just a high current power bus & data linking them.

In terms of field servicability, so long as the modules themselves are reliable,  I would rather be able to plug in a laptop & use that for diagnostics without having to lie in the mud with a multimeter.

Si

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  • 1 year later...

Hi there, if anyone's interested i've drawn up a wiring diagram for a project i'm doing on a series 3 (using the m-unit blue). 

Used an m-unit blue on a classic motorcycle that had been giving me electrical issues for years and it was transformative. 100% reliable, easy to configure and with the added bonus of adding a secure built in alarm. 

There's a handy article of someone who's done it on an mini cooper - Mini Cooper 1964 Digital Electrics | Stuntex - Motorcycle Video Magazine 

If you pair it with an High Load MSD solid state relay kit for the high load bits (headlights, glow plugs, heated windscreen etc), then you can make it work. 
 
This is the wiring diagram i've drawn up based on adapting the factory wiring setup. As you can see there's only two fuses, which I might replace with circuit breakers.
 
https://ibb.co/Xt92fnS

Wiring Diagram Landrover.PNG

Edited by Raoul M
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