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69' Series IIA Build

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I thought I would go ahead and start a build thread on my project, in the next 2-3 weeks I'll actually some progress to show. Here is a basic description of the build specs, I'll show a good bit of detail features as they are done. Doing a bit of little detail touches/features that are I find interesting to build, that I'll show as I go.

Ok, from such humble beginnings a new SIIA will eventually emerge, as if a butterfly from it's cocoon. :-)

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Here she is on trailer ready to come home.

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A bit of a closer view. Sorry for the big pics, I'll try to figure out how to reduce their size.

I'll try not to be boring... I have spent the last year figuring and designing what I want her to be, viewing everything as part of an over all system, with no one thing jumping out as noticeable. As in, wow, thats a big lift and big tires or something.

I'm building her like a Land Rover SIIA, built in the 90s using the type of components from then, which to me are kinda the pinnacle of LR technology, still rugged and without much electrical and no electronics.

So here's a basic overview of her build specs:

Front axle, modified Toyota FJ60 axle housings, long side shorter, short side lengthened, (actually the tube gets shortened and the end machined & then an extension sleeve added, without the sleeve it's too short and with the sleeve but not shortened it's is too long) so diff sits in standard location, with truss and a bit of reinforcing, RCV custom length 30 spline shafts & 300M CV joints & drive flange, 4" wider WMS to WMS, FJ60 diff, V6 Toyota calipers (2-38mm & 2 42mm pistons) vented LC discs, Sixshooter HD knuckles, 25mm chromoly steering knuckle pins and 25mm bearings (up from 17mm bearings & cast pins) custom steer from behind (puts tie rods above and behind axle, out of the way & protected) steering sys with GM 1 ton tie rod ends, FJ60 steering box, Vanco Hydro brakes (no vacuum pump & booster) upgraded PS pump to run PS & brakes. Brake lines all ran in gravel guard.

Rear axle, modified FJ60 housing, long side shortened & reinforcing sleeved, short side lengthened & reinforcing sleeved, 2.5" wider WMS to WMS, truss & a bit of reinforcing, Ruff Stuff disc/FF flange, LC front hub, chromoly front spindle, custom length RCV 30 spline axles & press fit drive flange, FJ60 vented rotors & caliper (4-38mm pistons, as don't need as much power on rear wheels) FJ60 diff, axle moved 2" aft using redrilled spring perch & extension plate, giving 90" WB, but can be converted back to 88" easily, diff housings drilled & tapped ready for air lockers a bit later.

Building the chassis, I have finished making the patterns, (good grief, I must have made and remade and fine tuned those patterns at least a half dozen times! lol). 3.5mm material for chassis rails, cross member 1 & 4, Richard Chassis 109 Military 1 ton dumb irons, Australian Military 1/2 ton SWB rear spring hangers (duel hight spring eye holes, like the dumb irons) bulkhead outriggers, LH & RH fuel outriggers (duel Alisport aluminum fuel tanks with capacitance fuel senders), bolt in under engine cross member, built up from 3"x1.5" x 1/4" (not using 1/4" wall for strength, but rather for impact resistance since both cross members tend to get hit), under gearbox built up  from 1.5"x2"x1/4"bolt in cross member, rear cross member, built from 4"x6"x 3/16" and a 4"x1"x3/16" tube welded to bottom of cross member and cut out to same profile as stock SIIA cross member, but stronger and no places to catch water.

Suspension is Rocky Mountain 3 leaf Parabolics. Rear parabolic springs used on front, flipped around, so chassis horns & dumb irons only need to be extended 3-1/4", Ruff Stuff DOM bushed HD sleeves for shackles, Ruff Stuff HD rear shackle hangers, Ford F250 extended shock towers, Bilstein 7100 long travel (TBD probably 14" travel) shocks.

LC 5.5x16 split rims, 255/85-16 MT tires. rear swing away basket that can carry 3 jerry cans, Protection & Performance roll cage kit with chassis tie ins & steel tube snorkel, building a brush bar very similar to the Camel Trophy Defenders, but customized to look proper on an SIIA, HD 4"x4"x1/4 bumper. Undercover Covers tilt and frame, have a tropical hard top roof and sides that can be put on later if wanted, early Defender front seats, rebuilt using temper foam, cubby box, 4 rebuilt fold up rear seats. Forbyn Brother machined door hinges and their lower door hinges for the swing away tailgate. The top door hinges are being made to incorporate mirror mounts, these are the ones without the mirror mounts. 

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Remanufactured, tuned 300Tdi, Turner performance head and REM Isotropic micro polish treatment to most internals, slam panel removed, using SI/Military bonnet clips makes possible to use Alisport full width 70mm XL radiator and full width front mount intercooler, remanufactured Stubby R380 & LT230 with REM micro polish internals,the LT230 getting Syncro Gearboxes 300M intermediate HD shaft, Slickshift, oil feed plate, intermediate shaft in case gets steel bushing sleeve, high capacity sump, ATB Diff, HD bearings, deluxe dished bonnet to carry spare on bonnet, Rocky Mountain door tops.

Bespoke bulkhead by Dave Marsh, Westlakes All Wheel Drive.

Using full suite of Buzzweld's products for all paint, primer, coatings etc. The only thing that might not be Buzzweld will be top coat of Bronze Green body paint. Using the best product for each area of the vehicle and will document everything and take pics of the various steps of each type of product for all the different components, from disc calipers to chassis to engine and gearbox coatings. I think this may be the first ground up build using the full suite of Buzzweld products. I'm looking forward to using the best combination of the best Buzzweld products for any given part or components, for maximum long term protection and performance. I'll be ordering my first batch of Buzzweld products next week to be put on the pallet with the 300Tdi, gearbox, TC and some other stuff, then will be putting another order to be sent over on the pallet with the bulkhead Dave is building for me, to finish up the rest of the coatings and finishes needed. Oh and for the offroad trailer I'll be building for the SIIA to pull, it will get the full house Buzzweld treatment too! Every piece of metal, bead or soda blasted (as appropriate) to bare metal.   

I'll be starting on the chassis in couple weeks, I've worked on the axle housings and have them stripped & ready to have the ends machined. I'll get some pics up of the axle housings and what was done to get them ready for machined ends in next day or so.

Hopefully I haven't bored everyone to tears! 1f642.png:-) I think it's going to be a fun little adventure. I tend to like the technical side of things and like to know the details of things. If I'm being too detailed, please let me know.

Cheers, Allen

 

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I don't know anything about the axles, but the rest of it a hell of a spec.  3.5mm for the chassis is just about twice the thickness of the original; I was told it was 1.8mm and my old one was about that where I measured it after chopping it up.  It's going to be heavy!  It'll be great seeing this go together.  I don't think I've seen a build start with such precisely defined details.

Like I said, I don't know the axles.  How with the rear mounted steering work?  Under an inclined diff, like on later LRs?

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The SIII Chassis I have here is about 2mm thick.

Richards Chassis uses 2.5mm for their Chassis.

i figured the weight difference and it came out to well under 20lbs heavier, and that was being quite conservative.

the two bolt on cross members will add a bit of extra weight though.

i think the all up weight of the axles wit the truss & a bit of reinforcement will only be a little heavier than the SIIA axles with the heavy drum brakes.

im going to weigh the stock axles and compare them to the finished LC axles, interested to see how they  compare.

I'm not building her to be good at one or even two tasks. Rather to be a very capable all around vehicle, that could be driven most anywhere in the world and be reliable, rugged and safe.

i like designing & building, don't mind maintenance, but I don't like repairing things and really hate trail type repairs! Lol

 

 

 

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A company 4x4Labs.com do the steer from behind type steering.

its like a high steer sys except the steering arms go behind the axle instead of in front.

it needs a 4" lift for the tie rods to clear the springs on a LC set up.

i don't think there will be a problem fitting it with the longer dumb irons, longer shackles & extra lift from the RM springs.

if it won't fit well, I'll use their high steer system to get the tie rod well up and out of the way.

I'll see if I can find a pic of it.

It will be on an FJ40. The FJ40 & FJ60 axles are the same except to long side is 2-⅝" longer than the FJ40,

Edited by abosely

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Interesting Project !

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Frombie steering is named after the guy who figured it out.

It's setting steering ratio for a given set of dimensions, wheel track, WB so that when wheels are turned the outside wheel tracks a larger circle than the inside wheel so the vehicle turns smoothly.

All modern vehicles incorporate it, but the early didn't, so the 4c4 Labs steering system incorporates it into the steering.

they have over 300 different sets figured out. Everyone that uses the 4x4 labs system loves it.

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20lbs is nothing to a Land Rover, and a lot less than I anticipated.  My Marsland HD chassis' main rails are 3mm, so 3.5 isn't outrageous.

Looking at that steering system, I think you may have trouble clearing the track rod below the engine sump, but I hope I'm wrong.

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Good point about the sump being in the way of the rest track rod.

Not a big issue if it does, I'll just go with their high steer system with everything in front of the axle, but tucked up nice & high, really safe tucked up high there.

With everything tucked up high it probably is just as protected as the steer from behind sys.

One advantage of the front mounted high steering sys is it will look a bit more like a LR system and not so drastically different.

It will still have Frombie steering.  

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High front steer should clear everything; I'm pretty sure the crank pulley is far enough aft for that and the rods ahead of the dip in the front cross member even at full lock.  I don't have my vehicle with me to check these things, so I'm working from memory.

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Decided to go with Marlin Crawler Billet steel steering arms and steering upgrade kit. 

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Along with Ruff Stuff weld in threaded bungs that weld into 1.5"x1/4" tube Draglink and Tie Rod with FJ80 tie rod ends.

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I can get pitman arm in a few different drops to locate Tie Rod at height needed. So should be able to work around any clearance issue, and will be testing clearances at maximum articulation both directions and at full turn.  

Gong to use OEM 4 stud steering knuckles with ARP 2000 HD knuckle studs. These along with the billet steel steering arms will be beyond bullet proof. Plus it save me $300 because I already have a set of steering knuckles. Thats certainly helps. :-)  

Another nice aspect of the RCV CV joint is they have a 43 degree steering angle, that coupled with the extra 2" per side axle length to keep tire from fouling the springs, sould make for a pretty small turning radius.

Cheers, Allen

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The FJ60 rear axle housing drum brake flange

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Got cut around flange down to the housing

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Then knocked off, leaving this machined surface, parallel with the one on opposite side. The machined area will be extended inwards a bit and a 3.5" OD tube, with the ID machined to fit over this on both sides. The short side is extended a couple inches.  

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Then the Ruff Stuff disc/FF flange is welded to ends of housing.

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A FJ60 front spindle bolts onto them and FJ60 hubs onto spindle. The inside of the spindle gets machined to take a Marlin Crawler EcoSeal 

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Then the pinion angle is set and spring perches welded on.

Cheers, Allen 

 

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Front axle is a FJ60 housing.

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That gets stripped down and cleaned up, stock diff cover cut off, the front of the housing is getting drilled and tapped for a Ruff Stuff diff cover same as whats going on the rear axle.

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The knuckle balls were cut and removed so long side of housing can be shortened slightly and short side lengthened. Will index from the machined inside of housing and extend the machined section deeper into the housing for the length changing.

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The short side has tobe shortened 1" and then the extension sleeve welded in to get length on short side.IMG_5981.thumb.JPG.0e3edf189bc51a62d7f5218083b7873a.JPG5993eb0b9005a_download(11).png.b98289548b91ce228b3c095e2c0f7fb1.png

Here it is with an old junk knuckle ball stuck in for reference.

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Then the pinion and caster angles will be set and spring perches welded on.

If I'm posting to many pics or giving to detailed information, let me know.

Cheers, Allen 

 

 

 

 

 

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I'm interested to see as much detail as you can post.  The only problem I have is that the photos stay small if clicked on, so I can't see the detail, but it could just be the version of Chrome I'm using.

Just in case you need it, the standard castor angle on all LR Series, Defender, RRC  and Discovery swivels was 3 degrees.  

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I like details myself also. I'll try and figure out how to make pic bigger when clicked on, I just checked and they stay small when I click on them also. I'm not real tech savvy. lol

Cheers, Allen 

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You are not worried of things getting misaligned due to the heat from welding ?

The axle housing is not the easiest part to chuck up in the lathe and getting it all concentric.

BTW that Frombie steering ? Isn't that the same as the Ackermann principle?

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And YES, please keep the details/pics coming !

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On 8/16/2017 at 9:52 AM, AV8R said:

You are not worried of things getting misaligned due to the heat from welding ?

The axle housing is not the easiest part to chuck up in the lathe and getting it all concentric.

BTW that Frombie steering ? Isn't that the same as the Ackermann principle?

Not too worried, not that I'm not concerned. I'll do the welding in small steps and have the housing clamped down in a jig to minimize movement. Will use a bottle jack to keep pressure in opposite direction and to push back into alignment. Will be using a 1.5" machined bar and pucks to determine if everything is in alignment as I go and adjust with heat and pressure as I go.

The machine shop is a marine machine shop and turns big shafts and parts. Plus the ends have machined sections to start indexing from. I hope to be able to be there when he does the machining so I can take pics of the process.   

I think so, there is something about the steer from behind that is a bit different I think. I'm not going to use the steer from behind system because I believe the oil sump will be in the way without modifying the steering rods. 

I have serial boxes of parts and component that will be here tomorrow Saturday 19th or Monday the 21st for sure, and the box with the knuckle bearings and steering arms later in the week. I got the pair of knuckle balls today, I had to get a pair because the the ones from the  I'm using the housings from were pretty pitted.  I cleaned them up this afternoon. IMG_6394.thumb.JPG.f7f7ba5e45d0399466184368f4892836.JPGIMG_6394.thumb.JPG.f7f7ba5e45d0399466184368f4892836.JPG 

This is after I dunked them in buck of solvent and hit them with a bench wire wheel and cut the steering stops off. I'll take a pic of them tmw to show what they look like with some quality time with cut off disc, grinding disc and bench grinder. These ones are slightly pitted, but it isn't an issue because I have to media blast them with coarse media to be coated with Buzzweld 2K Armor and CIO, the 2K likes a roughened surface to bite into, but is self leveling for a smooth finish and can be sanded before top coating with CIO.

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Above is a pic of the front side of the front housing where I cut the sheet metal diff cover off and started grinding the leftover part that was welded to the housing. I got it finished & wil put pic up tmw. I'm welding a ring of 0.134 plate where the ring I ground off to make it the same thickness as the rear housing,then drill and tap it for the bolt on diff cover. One of which will be here tmw or Monday. I'm going to have the surface surface ground to make it a dead flat surface for the reinforcement ring to sit on before welding the ring on it. 

Cheers, Allen

 

 

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I met with the machine shop today and we will do the machining on the housings & bits either Wednesday or Thursday, I'll be there to take pics of the process. Bunch of parts got here now so can move forward now. :-)

Got a little bit more done. 59a4d87e90d0f_IMG_6437(Edited).thumb.JPG.01aea88e265427b32f5f7d638d15237a.JPG

Got the rest of the sheet metal flange ground off. It gets an 1/8" ring welded on to replace the bit of the old  cover flange that was ground off, the drilled and tapped for a Ruff Stuff bolt on diff cover. 59a4d8a381dea_IMG_6439(Edited).thumb.JPG.dea06fb445263af4ebed7310e1a76801.JPG

The marker shows where the ring will be welded on after the surface is made flat.  Here is a truss made I from 3" x 3" x  3/16" tube, one on the front and one on the rear.59a4da2cda13b_IMG_6423(Edited).thumb.JPG.f90f8c752a29b864f2066d9831b8f254.JPGIMG_6421.thumb.JPG.852adf25939ed85b2f242e1f1b51a282.JPG

One of the Ruff Stuff bolt on diff covers sitting on the rear housing, the front gets one also. And a pis of the inside of the of the diff cover, welded on the inside also.

Cheers, Allen

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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A lot of work goes into this....

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Here is one of the Ruff Stuff, bushed DOM shackle hangers that will go through the chassis rails for the front springs shackles, 2" x 1/4" - 9/16  bolts and 1.5" bushings,  shackles are  3/8" thick & 6" long. The shackles have 5/8" offset.    

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 I just cross my fingers and hope I don't bend them! :-)

RS, rear spring shackle hangers have 1/4' thick base, 2" x 1/4" DOM tube, 1.5" bushings and 3/8" - 6" shackles. The shackles will get some quality time with a flap disc to soften the corners & edges tomorrow.

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I decided to use the 72' Series III SWB chassis I have, with some mods and doublers. The top front of one chassis rail has some pitting on it and the bottom of both chassis rails has some rust on the inside. So I'm going to add a top and bottom piece to both rails with 1.9mm material and build new chassis  horns 3mm for the 109 1 Ton dumb irons. I've  gotten most of all the  old motor mounts, shock mounts and other bits cut off and rails cleaned up. Hopefully will get  be able to get over to Hilo to get steel for this, the new rear cross member and for cross member s 2 & 3 this week. 

Cheers, Allen

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Speaking of cleaning, here's a before & after of one of the diffs, they both looked like this before I spent some quality time with 8" bench wire wheel, a few different sizes of wire wheels in the drill and angle grinder flap discs to cleanup some of the rough casting edges . They both will get sand blasted to finish the cleaning and prepping the diff cases.

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Cheers, Allen

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I needed a way to cut the leftover part of the housing off the flange of the knuckle balls. I had to buy a set of knuckle balls because the ones on my axle housing were badly pitted.

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This is what they looked like after I cleaned them in solvent, cut off the steering stops and wire wheeled them. 

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Here you can see the knuckle ball flange with the leftover part of the housing tube. 

I used a flap disc to clean up the  leftover housing. I needed a way to cut through the 6mm of housing, but not into the knuckle ball flange and have a fairly straight cut line.  So I came up with an Island lathe. lolIMG_6453.thumb.JPG.37e0417352d6aa5a4273027ecf94dd11.JPG

So I took a pole that was just a bit smaller than the hole inside the knuckle ball and wrapped duct tape around it till it was a tight fit in the end of the ball. To be continued...

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This pic shows the RS knuckle ball gussets. 

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So I came up with this contraption. 

IMG_6447.thumb.JPG.531fa20c9c0d2b4fe32e65bf374da459.JPGIMG_6449.thumb.JPG.4c1bcf1804de718c4c3b639b9b419e66.JPG

Here's my nephew Edgel being the model showing how I used the angle grinder while he turned the pole and I ran the angle grinder.

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I used this to keep pole from moving length ways.

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Put a mark on the disc to so could tell when we were getting close to 6mm deep, then would cut a bit and look close, cut, look repeat, till it parted nice and clean.

 

 

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