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Defender vs D2 Axle Conversion for Series


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Hi, this is my first post here as I've just started rebuilding my old Land Rover after leaving it sitting around for many years.

I currently have a SWB Series 3 in need of an axle swap as the casings have worn so thin from rust over the last 44 years that the rear casing now has a fair sized hole in it. I've been thinking about using opportunity to upgrade to defender axles (on leaf springs) as although it would be more work than finding some decent series units, it seems I would get increased width, disc brakes and stronger shafts. Also as its impossible to find a NoS rear casing for the series they would be much newer and less likely to find myself in the same situation. 

However one option I can't seem to find much information on is D2 axle swaps. How much wider than defender are these? Are the diff's the same as defender? Is the steering setup the same or different between D2 and Defender and how would this effect the problem I've read about with defender axle steering arms hitting the leaf springs?

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A lot of work for nothing, really in my opinion...

IIRC the boltpattern is different between Series & the coilers..

Just find some decent "new to you" ones..

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The D2 axles also have a very different wheel stud PCD, so you'd end up needing special wheels unless you're willing to put up with the limited range of D2 (& P38 Range Rover) specific wheels available as standard or via the aftermarket. Rim widths for standard D2 alloys are 7 inch or 8 inch & there's only 1 steel wheel of 7inch width. Aftermarket wheels only start at 8inch & usually have larger offset than standard D2 - increasing the vehicle track (standard wheel offset is 57mm). 

Hub adapters are available to allow use of Defender wheels, but add 30mm per side. 

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The amount of work involved is considerable for any axle swap, but not very different for one type vs another.  I fit Defender axles on my 109.  The rear was simple enough, but the front much more difficult because of steering geometry, the steering rod positions, the diffs being further outboard and sitting slightly over the right spring (the same on the back of an 88, but not 109).  The thicker saddles to allow for the diff housing sitting over the spring translate into loss of ride height and axle articulation as the axle sits that much closer tot he chassis unless you get into a load of other alterations.

The justification for the work involved depends very much on what you want to achieve, but if is a speculative question of "is it worth doing" rather than you having an actual need to modify them, then I'd recommend using standard Series axles.  There are benefits from the change, but not overwhelming or transformative.  Your insurance and vehicle value will be better served by keeping standard.

If you want to see how I did mine, then looking up the axle section from my link below will show you.

Welcome to the forum, and good luck with the rebuild.  I hope you'll share it on the Member's Vehicles or Series forums here with photos of the progress; we all love to see other's Land Rovers being restored. 

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