Greenrangie Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Hi all, long time reader, first time poster, I do apologise for my long winded post but I want to be sure I'm not leaving anything out So heres the story, I've got a 1993 range rover 3.9L v8 which I've had for about 6 years, bar a spate of radiator issues a few years ago its bern pretty reliable. That is until about 2 months ago, I left it sitting for 2 days while I went away, I go to start it and it would turn on then cut off, I'm with the RAC so I got them to come out and diagnose the problem, a broken ignition module, so I replaced that and it worked fine for about a week, then I had starting problems again, I checked the wiring on the ignition module and that was all fine, so again, instead of wasting money on a mobile mechanic, I call RAC, this time its diagnosed as the fuel pump, it would start by hitting the fuel tank.. So, after about a week of hitting the fuel tank, I replaced the fuel pump and filter, and it drove fine for about 3 weeks. Until I took it for a drive and left it for 2hrs, it wouldn't start again, so I left it till morning and tried again, fired up fine.. Then drove normally. Until last Sunday, I took it for a drive then it sat for a few hours and I headed home, along the way it stalled going up a very slight Hill, I pulled over and it started up again fine, for about 2kms, I heard a click then lost all power again and had to be towed home, in the hour it took from breaking down to getting home the hazard lights drained my battery completely flat. So I charged the battery overnight and found a blown 10A "fuelling" fuse under the passenger seat, I replace the fuse and battery and it started fine. Being that my battery was at least 5 years old and only 560CCA I decided to replace it with a new 720CCA battery, it drove fine to the auto store and I replaced the battery, it started up much faster than usual and I drove it back home, only about 4kms, I get into the driveway and power the window up, I lose all power again, this time for good, I couldn't find any blown fuses and read through the workshop manual to no avail. I called the RAC again, and this time the diagnosis was there was no pulse at the injector... I have 2 theories, and neither sound good A) I have an injector ecu problem? B) although I have an aftermarket immobiliser, could it be that the stock antitheft system/ecu has gone haywire and is causing my starting problems Is there anything else I can look at myself without having to enlist the help of a mechanic or autoelectrician? What more can I do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Check the continuity/security of the white/black wire from the AFM loom over to the coil, unless the ECU sees a spark, it will turn off the injectors.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenrangie Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 Bowie69, You sir, are a magician, I checked that wire, and I've had a look in that area before but hadn't specifically examined that wire, so I had a look and the male adapter was full of black gunk, and a bit of moisture was inside the sheath surrounding the wire, as I was inspecting the adapter to figure out how to clean inside it and it broke, so I had to jury rig a spare female plug I had and turned it into a male plug, I attached the 2 and sure enough.. It starts! Can it really be something that simple? Causing me all of these issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 It can be that indeed.... I would also test your coolant temp sensor, these have a habit of failing, and over-fuelling the engine, which could be a cause of it not running nicely when hot due to fouled plugs. Sensor is near the front left of the inlet manifold, looks something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-3-5-V8-TEMPERATURE-SENSOR-ETC8496-/261130727333 and should read as: -10C (14°F) 9100-9300 Ohms 0C (32°F) 5700-5900 Ohms 20C (68°F) 2400-2600 Ohms 40C (104°F) 1100-1300 Ohms 60C (140°F) 500-700 Ohms 80C (176°F) 300-400 Ohms 100C (212°F) 150-200 Ohms Lastly, I would think about replacing the coil, these, and the ignition amp you have already replaced, have a hard time on a RV8 and fail with amazing regularity... If one has died, it is quite possible the other is on the way out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenrangie Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 (edited) Thanks very much :-D my car started and drove to work and back fine today, however, I went to help another range rover in need (a 90 which has similar non starting issues) I had a look at their AFM wire and cleaned it up and just as I was about to jump start them, when the leads were on both batteries, my car turned off again and refused to start, I found a Fuse under the D/s seat behind the ecu, a yellow 20A Fuse im yet to identify had blown, I replaced that, no start, then I replaced the 30A black base relay, I think thats the main fuel relay and it started again... So far so good but the saga continues.... :-/ Could it be that the relay was causing me these issues, along with the coil wire? Edited August 25, 2017 by Greenrangie Typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 Could well be both. Check what fuse rating that should be, if it is often blowing when fitted with properly rated fuse, it sounds like a out have a problem in the circuit for whatever that feeds. If fuel pump, quite possible it is failing... Otherwise check the wiring is all good with no exposed conductors causing a short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.